Serpent 710
06-13-2004, 10:24 PM
Here are some custom bumpers that I made back when I first started driving the car a while ago, but never ended up posting. In this one, you can also see how I converted the 5th body post.
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Last edited by Arun; 06-13-2004 at 10:29 PM.
06-13-2004, 10:25 PM
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06-13-2004, 10:27 PM
Since I have seen a lot of posts regarding lost dogbones, I thought that I would show what I did to find them quickly just in case I break my car (but we know thats not going to happen, right
.) I just stretched some bright fuel tubing onto the dogbone shaft.
.) I just stretched some bright fuel tubing onto the dogbone shaft.
06-13-2004, 10:34 PM
Re: Re: Re: FISH TAILing REAR and its solutions.....
Originally posted by InitialD
That's what I heard some have tried. I found yellow to be very forgiving on the 710 unlike the heavier 705. Using red springs on the 710, you need reasonable traction with lower shore tires.
What I also found is that the car works very nice when the shocks are stood up more. This is on yellow springs.
That's what I heard some have tried. I found yellow to be very forgiving on the 710 unlike the heavier 705. Using red springs on the 710, you need reasonable traction with lower shore tires.
What I also found is that the car works very nice when the shocks are stood up more. This is on yellow springs.
06-13-2004, 10:41 PM
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Oh, God! I hope Rene is not mad at us.
Oh, God! I hope Rene is not mad at us.
I don't know how he is modifying the servo saver though...
06-13-2004, 10:43 PM
Originally posted by Brightbluehaze
Duh, I am an idiot LOL, just took apart the shocks to check them and one of the e-clips from the top of the piston had come loose on the front left shock so there was no dampening! This explains the erratic behavior due to "weight transfer"!
Duh, I am an idiot LOL, just took apart the shocks to check them and one of the e-clips from the top of the piston had come loose on the front left shock so there was no dampening! This explains the erratic behavior due to "weight transfer"!
Everybody's is allowed to make this kind of mistake once in every few years.
Good to know that you found the problem. Let us know how it goes after Wednesday.
06-13-2004, 10:44 PM
Originally posted by Proficar403
Here is the "double slot" that I put in the diff, combined with the longer pins in the rear dogbones (next post) and some grease on the pins, the new slots held up great and showed no wear whatsoever. This is probably the worst of my pics, but you can get what I'm talking about.
Here is the "double slot" that I put in the diff, combined with the longer pins in the rear dogbones (next post) and some grease on the pins, the new slots held up great and showed no wear whatsoever. This is probably the worst of my pics, but you can get what I'm talking about.
I bet you took a lot of time doing it by hand tools.
06-13-2004, 10:45 PM
Originally posted by Proficar403
Here are some custom bumpers that I made back when I first started driving the car a while ago, but never ended up posting. In this one, you can also see how I converted the 5th body post.
top...
Here are some custom bumpers that I made back when I first started driving the car a while ago, but never ended up posting. In this one, you can also see how I converted the 5th body post.
top...
I notice after putting on the CF upper bumper brace on my car from 3Racing, the lower stock plastic bumper can take a decent hit without cracking. Definitely a must have.
06-13-2004, 10:46 PM
Originally posted by Proficar403
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06-13-2004, 10:47 PM
Originally posted by Proficar403
Since I have seen a lot of posts regarding lost dogbones, I thought that I would show what I did to find them quickly just in case I break my car (but we know thats not going to happen, right .) I just stretched some bright fuel tubing onto the dogbone shaft.
Since I have seen a lot of posts regarding lost dogbones, I thought that I would show what I did to find them quickly just in case I break my car (but we know thats not going to happen, right
.) I just stretched some bright fuel tubing onto the dogbone shaft.
06-13-2004, 11:20 PM
bright blue
you need to shut down some on power weight transfer and rear bite. it looks like you tried to do it with the shocks but you need to use spring.
change the rear roll center to upper inner on the top arm and upper on the lower. go to a red rear spring. front shocks 2 holes open and full open on the rear. Lay the front shocks down to the middle hole and put the front sway bar on flat. stiffen the rear sway bar to 8MM from the end of the bar. set the front 198 and the rear 200. loosen the rear diff to meduim max. the car should steer on power and be neutral given the rest of your setup on an medium to low bite track with that body. back the rear toe off as much as you can and reduce the front toe to +1.
the stiff rear springs and rear roll center change are important. be sure to remember to move the drs arm up to when you change the lower arm
you need to shut down some on power weight transfer and rear bite. it looks like you tried to do it with the shocks but you need to use spring.
change the rear roll center to upper inner on the top arm and upper on the lower. go to a red rear spring. front shocks 2 holes open and full open on the rear. Lay the front shocks down to the middle hole and put the front sway bar on flat. stiffen the rear sway bar to 8MM from the end of the bar. set the front 198 and the rear 200. loosen the rear diff to meduim max. the car should steer on power and be neutral given the rest of your setup on an medium to low bite track with that body. back the rear toe off as much as you can and reduce the front toe to +1.
the stiff rear springs and rear roll center change are important. be sure to remember to move the drs arm up to when you change the lower arm
06-13-2004, 11:26 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by InitialD
Contrary to what you may think, I believe Rene might also be in the same direction as you guys... I don't know how he is modifying the servo saver though...
Contrary to what you may think, I believe Rene might also be in the same direction as you guys...
I don't know how he is modifying the servo saver though...
Watchout for the upcoming Japanesse RRR version.
Their Geometri looks very much convincing, their upper suspension part in prooven already (you know
)
06-13-2004, 11:30 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
change the rear roll center to upper inner on the top arm and upper on the lower.
change the rear roll center to upper inner on the top arm and upper on the lower.
Originally posted by Motorman
go to a red rear spring.
go to a red rear spring.
Originally posted by Motorman
the stiff rear springs and rear roll center change are important. be sure to remember to move the drs arm up to when you change the lower arm
the stiff rear springs and rear roll center change are important. be sure to remember to move the drs arm up to when you change the lower arm
Kudos.
06-13-2004, 11:33 PM
I had some help from a friend 
My car is working very well. I put it in 2 a mains right out of the box
I ran the mazda 6 but did not like it that well.(good high speed rear traction, not so good at low speed with the wing cut to legal height) the RD stratus works better or the old proto stratus. the RD's just more aero and very well balanced.
I have suspected the servo saver being to soft. plan to shim the spring a MM to stiffen mine.
My car is working very well. I put it in 2 a mains right out of the box
I ran the mazda 6 but did not like it that well.(good high speed rear traction, not so good at low speed with the wing cut to legal height) the RD stratus works better or the old proto stratus. the RD's just more aero and very well balanced.
I have suspected the servo saver being to soft. plan to shim the spring a MM to stiffen mine.
Last edited by Motorman; 06-13-2004 at 11:39 PM.
06-13-2004, 11:40 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
I had some help from a friend
My car is working very well. I put it in 2 a mains right out of the box
I had some help from a friend
My car is working very well. I put it in 2 a mains right out of the box
Let me guess... YBSLOW?
Originally posted by Motorman
I ran the mazda 6 but did not like it that well.(good high speed rear traction, not so good at low speed with the wing cut to legal height) the RD stratus works better or the old proto stratus. the RD's just more aero and very well balanced.
I ran the mazda 6 but did not like it that well.(good high speed rear traction, not so good at low speed with the wing cut to legal height) the RD stratus works better or the old proto stratus. the RD's just more aero and very well balanced.
I believe PSI Racing gave a very good posting on the reply he got from Protoform regarding the Madza 6. Julius has also gave some of his input by mounting the Mazda 6 about 2 mm (not 2 cm
) further to the front and made a lot of difference in handling...