D, Are you still running the black shoe? I have taken out all clutch modifications with the yellow shoe. I am using the stock flyweights in their normal way wit a 0.5 to 0.6 mm gap. Works excellent.

I don't remember, but I think it was 11mm for the diff. The pins are 3mm, not 2.5, that's for sure, and they are also a pain to pound out (especially to my thumb ). I cut the new pins from an old screwdriver. I would take pictures...but my digital camera is far too crappy to give a good close up shot.

If I had the black wheel axles in the front, I would probably do the same to all the dogbones. Even in the wheel axles, there is too much space between the end of the pin and the end of the axle cup. I have seen some nasty worn axles at my track. The fact that we are running locked front axles probably dosen't help much. The spring steel ones, on the other hand, simply do not wear.

If anyone knows a better way to get the pins out, my thumb would appreciate it.

You could try the Hudy Assembly Tool.
Part: 106000
It might be hard to find, because it has been discontinued.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=1752
You might still be able to find it.

Sorry guys, I know this is off topic. I started a thread, but I can't seem to get a response

I'm just curious to know what kind of power supply you guys use to power your tire truers. I'm interested in the Eagle Racing 28A. What do you guys think?

I'm open to suggestions so feel free to recommend other brands.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks Julius. That is great to know. Just one question, how far in do you set your clutch spring preload nut with the yellow shoe? I know this will vary...I just wanted to get a good starting point. Thanks.

I use the Hudy Pro one and just use a normal 7mAH 12 volt GP Battery. Its small (battery) and have enough to do some truing as well as charge my receiver battery during a day's racing.

well i use the ofna truer and i use the novak n power for it ... i guess its just thesame with the eagle ... i tried it on a hudy power was to weak so best is if you have friend the has a n power try it first..the bulldog power supply is also good i have seen alot of guys using it good luck!

http://teamnovak.com/products/power_...er/N-Power.htm

http://www.balakracing.com/rivergate30.htm

Julius...what did you end up with on the spring/nut gap?

I was at the Region 4 race last weekend and Paola said he was using the standard flyweights, 1.45mm spring/nut gap, black shoes and .4 mm gap on the clutch bell. He said the .4 mm was the key. Maybe he can elaborate on this. He was definately the fastest guy on the track.

Thanks, but isn't the NPower a 10 amper? I maybe wrong, but isn't 10 amps not enough...then again I don't use the Ofna truer. I have the automatic Hudy one.

That Bulldog PS looks very promising though.

I could count on you guys. They should change this to "GET YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE" thread

I'm also currently using a gel cel and it works fine. I just want a power supply to use at home to power some other equipment besides my truer.

I would not buy a power supply for just my gas stuff. I run electric also, so I already have a couple of supplies. AFAIK the hudy needs a lot of juice, and that would probably just be too expensive and bulky of a ps.

It is somewhat common to see someone with a 7AH gel cell use their battery for their truer, charger, and their starter box.

Since you want something for home, I would check ebay for a cheap pyramid supply. They are big, but also very cheap.

I have been running a .4 gap for a while now. This weekend, I will try modding the flyweights with the setscrews just to see what the difference is. I have noticed that, with the .4 gap, I do not have that much of a window for adjustment. It seems that any adjustments lead to excessive bogging or slip. Hopefully the new flyweights will make a difference and give me more of a sweet spot.

Thanks Julius. I don't have the yellow clutch shoes at the moment. Have you tried setting the flyweight mods with set screws in it? When I get the yellow shoes (if I get it ), I'll try stock flyweight mounting WITHOUT set screw, stock flyweight mounting WITH set screw at the one end, modded flyweights and mounted in between the post WITHOUT set screws and finally modded and mounted in between the post WITH 2 set screws.

Thanks for the info Arun. Like what PSI Racing mentioned, Hudy made a too to extract that pin out. I think you could use your worn out 1.5 or 2 mm allen, a hammer and a vice.