InitialD

Ray, if I remember, you use to race the NTC3 with all the reverse nut thing at the rear toe in links. Are you deciding to run the 710 this season?

InitialD

I was wondering about that as well because if extrapolate the real ride height fromt he setup sheet, it comes out to 4 mm ! Not for the ordinary joe ride height !

Anyway, there are many setups already posted on mytsn. So which setups posted are measuring the real ride height and which are with the setup ride height?

InitialD

maximummt, nice ride ! Welcome to the club.

InitialD

A lof of people use to use the Plano fishing tackle boxes. Fit a lot of small stuff and arranges all your small stuff very nicely. But they can be very expensive though. Best is to look at the hardware shops at your local place to see what you can get. Usually the fishing section can give you nice boxes too and perhaps cheaper like what Punisher and serpentracer1 mentioned.



For the other stuff like starter box and the car, you could use the Serpent 1980 bag.

InitialD

When the DRS arm is set to the above level, the rear wheel toes out. I have not checked with the gauges but I'm guessing it toes out somewhere about 0.5 to 1 on each side of the rear wheel.

The ride height will affect the toe in or out of the rear wheels when you set the DRS arm to above position (i.e. low ride height = less toe in, high ride height = more toe in). Of course after you set your ride height, you'll go on to set your camber and toe in / out.

But as to how fast or how much it toes in or out in relation to the fixed chassis ride height, I would not have a clue. Need to check it out.

I guess when the rear part of the chassis is lowered due to tire wear, the rear wheels toe out more when the DRS arm in set in the above position...

InitialD

I think somebody asked this before. How many shims are you using behind the flywheel? Did you tighten down the flywheel hard enough with the flywheel nut? If you're using 0.5 mm, try using 0.3 mm shim. Use the single piece thick shim. Not the loose 0.1 mm thin ones. That would give you about 0.2 mm of additional clutch gap spacing.

In any case, I would not worry too much. I prefer to set the clutch shoe and clutch bell gap as close as possible (about 0.4 mm) and set the clutch nut spring tight down to 1 mm of the thread showing. If you changed and cut the flyweights to fit in between the post, you get very excellent punch out of the clutch with this setting.

I would suggest to run the car with the 0.4 mm spacing and mount the rest of the clutch as is. If the clutch is not engaging, loosen the centax pre-tension nut. After running it, check the clutch gap spacing. On mine, I noticed that the gap went bigger than what I measured earlier. Perhaps the parts inside did not "settle" down.

See how it goes. If you're not getting satisfactory performance, then do the mod.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

thanks

clmbia45

ROAR only restricts ceramic bearings in the engine. Elsewhere they are legal. Acer has just made them available. I'll look for the pivot balls. Thanks as always, jack

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

Anybody know how to decode the Serpent language? I haven't recieved my 710yet but I want to order a bunchof spare parts for it from RC-Mushroom but I don't understand what the descriptions mean. There are no pictures. And Serpent doesn't have parts listed on there site of all the 710 parts with a descrpition? I'm used to calling stuff, knuckles, pillowballs, control arms, hingepins and etc... I think I have figured out some of the descriptions but I don't want to go and order a bunch of parts and not get what I thought I was ordering! If anybody could help me out with the Serpent language that would be great because I'd like to start ordeing spare parst soon. Thanks for your time.

Later...Richard

InitialD

I noticed the last time I visited RC-Mushroom, they do not have every 710 part listed. Perhaps now they do.

Anyway, you can download the Reference Guide from mytsn. You need to be registered first before being able to download the PDF file. There are 3D diagrams of the parts that belong to the car, their respective part numbers and where it goes into the car. At the back of the page, there is a complete list of 710 parts. That should help you a lot.

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

SWEET Thanks "D"!!!!! You just saved me a ton of headaches.

markp27

Hey, Lord D, got your Mazda finished yet? More races this weekend?

I've ordered myself an Alfa and a Mazda from Protofrom for my Surikarn - the guys I've spoken too about the Mazda reckon it is the best thing out there now!!!

BaxterC

Hi there Guys,

I am wandering about bodies on the 710, I am looking for a decent body for racing, something that looks good, and plays good, and even fits good. I saw a really nice one on the protoform site, it is the MG, but it has a drawback... it is only in 190mm. This is probably one of the better looking ones but doesn't help me coz it is so narrow. It seems like you favour the protoform bodies, why? What is the difference, I found the (Dare I say) hpi bodies have better detail, I have not had much experience with protoform, but I didnt like the shape of their bodies so much on their site.

Thanks guys I really appreciate the help the forum has provided so far.

kennykay

Hi,

I think you are new to this hobby. For those 190mm width body, they are used for electric TC. For 710 or other GP TC, rules required it to be under 200mm.

For why people like Protoform over HPI, you may compare their price, their performance from guys on track.

markp27

You really can't go wrong with the Protoform bodies - they are the best on the market in my opinion. Up until reacently, the body of choice was the Stratus, which has great stability and downforce. But it seems that Protoform have gone one step further with the introduction of the Mazda 6 - Ralph Burch used this at the Winternats to really good effect.
Apparently the Mazda 6 has all the stability characteristics but also has more steering.

If I was you, I would go first for the Stratus 2.1 and then get a Mazda 6 to see if you like it better, once you are used with the Stratus.

The HPIs may have all the bells-and-whistles in terms of looks, but they are not as good in terms of performance as the Protoform bodies.

Cheers, Mark.