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Old 06-11-2004, 12:44 AM   #12406
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Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
nitialD: where did you get the solid from? Also does it work better then just using say 120k diff greese in the front diff?
Are you referring to the 710?

The oneway unit that comes stock with the 710 has 2 drilled holes to mount the optional lockset pins (802252) which turns the oneway shaft into a solid front axle.





Each pin go through the oneway unit shaft and into the hole of the oneway outdrive. The aluminum collar prevents the pins from coming out. The O rings prevents the collar from moving sideways and making it stay put.
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Old 06-11-2004, 01:22 AM   #12407
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Say, how did those parts break? Did you hit the knuckle while on throttle? I would guess the part where the dogbone broke was the part that went into the broken oneway drive cup... Something must have prevented it from turning.
The outdrives broke after hitting no wall...I have Art Carbonell and Doug McNeely (sp?) as a witnesses . I broke that particular dogbone back when I first drove the car. Art also busted a set of outdrives that particular weekend.

To fix this, I now have the 835 bones and outdrives (drilled and locked, of course ) The problem with the stock outdrives is that the slots are squared off inside the cup. The old ones were rounded.

BTW...drilling "locking holes" in the old style one-way outdrives is even more aggravating than changing the dogbone pins (but less painful ) When I broke my only 3 drill bits, I just started grinding away with my dremel engraving bits!
Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
The dogbone break first from hard impact.
Then the outdrive came out and hit upper suspension holder.

Just a guess.
To clarify, I never broke both the outdrive and driveshaft at the same time. Creative guess, though .
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Old 06-11-2004, 01:26 AM   #12408
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Well
after running my Serpent for the first serious race all I can say is thanks Serpent. I have Run a Mugen for a very long time and still plan to keep mine but I can honestly say (IMHO) that this is the finest handling and performing sedan I have ever seen anywhere, anytime anyplace. Its so docile and balanced and responds to changes so well its almost scary. It wears tires even and leaps off the corners like a TC3. I did have to change a few things on the car but its trivial stuff (ie clutch setup,835 front axles and convert to steel front pivot balls)
The car just rocks.
Julius tell Pieter and the Serpent crew

Dennis Richey
Richey Performance Motorsport
USA
How are those RD engines coming?
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Old 06-11-2004, 01:35 AM   #12409
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
To fix this, I now have the 835 bones and outdrives (drilled and locked, of course )
If they are the new one, not the old springsteel, do not install for front or it will break on impact. Try to just frop it on the floor, there would be a good change that those round egde would chipped off as to show how weak they are (the new black color 808220 one).
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Old 06-11-2004, 01:37 AM   #12410
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
To fix this, I now have the 835 bones and outdrives (drilled and locked, of course )
How do you mean by this? You create holes on the outdrives so that the pin from the dogbones sit in nicely? Any pic?
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Old 06-11-2004, 02:47 AM   #12411
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Quote:
Originally posted by Afterburner
Thanks Julius. That is great to know. Just one question, how far in do you set your clutch spring preload nut with the yellow shoe? I know this will vary...I just wanted to get a good starting point. Thanks.
I actually never measure....
As a start I screw te cap till about 1mm of thread is visible above it. Then I start the engine and after it's warmed up I set the clutch to engage as needed.
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Old 06-11-2004, 02:51 AM   #12412
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks Julius. I don't have the yellow clutch shoes at the moment. Have you tried setting the flyweight mods with set screws in it? When I get the yellow shoes (if I get it ), I'll try stock flyweight mounting WITHOUT set screw, stock flyweight mounting WITH set screw at the one end, modded flyweights and mounted in between the post WITHOUT set screws and finally modded and mounted in between the post WITH 2 set screws.
That sounds like a weeks worth of testing

Actually before the yellow shoe I used the flyweights with one setscrew in their original position. Almost as good as the yellow shoe. Slightly harder to set perfectly.
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Old 06-11-2004, 02:52 AM   #12413
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
So Julius, your using the new yellow shoes completely stock and having good results?? Is that also the stock spring as well? I'll have to get the yellow shoes and try them out.
Yes that is all correct
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Old 06-11-2004, 02:53 AM   #12414
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Well
after running my Serpent for the first serious race all I can say is thanks Serpent. I have Run a Mugen for a very long time and still plan to keep mine but I can honestly say (IMHO) that this is the finest handling and performing sedan I have ever seen anywhere, anytime anyplace. Its so docile and balanced and responds to changes so well its almost scary. It wears tires even and leaps off the corners like a TC3. I did have to change a few things on the car but its trivial stuff (ie clutch setup,835 front axles and convert to steel front pivot balls)
The car just rocks.
Julius tell Pieter and the Serpent crew

Dennis Richey
Richey Performance Motorsport
USA
Thanks for the kind words. I'll let them know!
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Old 06-11-2004, 03:08 AM   #12415
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Some testings...

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
That sounds like a weeks worth of testing
Well, at least some kind soul like yourself has eliminated some of the things that I need to do with your input... Thanks. Hoping for some more results to lighten my burden.
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Old 06-11-2004, 03:12 AM   #12416
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Some testings...

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Actually before the yellow shoe I used the flyweights with one setscrew in their original position. Almost as good as the yellow shoe. Slightly harder to set perfectly.
On paper and with some deductions as to some testings made, mounting the flyweights in the middle of the post and putting 2 set screws on each flyweight would be better wouldn't it? Plus using the yellow shoes with those mods would be the best like what Goldfinger mentioned... Correct?
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:58 AM   #12417
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Does anybody knows where I can get the new universals for the 710?I've been popping dogbones from even the slightest impact.Some suggest running 197mm track width up front but it's still poppin out.
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Old 06-11-2004, 11:10 AM   #12418
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Quote:
Does anybody knows where I can get the new universals for the 710?I've been popping dogbones from even the slightest impact.Some suggest running 197mm track width up front but it's still poppin out.
I have the same problem i bought the universal from 3 racing...but what i did before is you can get ballpen that has a spring and cut the spring in half.. cut to right length and put one in the front one way outdrive to push your dogbones toward the axel shaft or you can also put one spring into the axel shaft so that the dogbone is right in the center between the outdrive and the axel shaft... this can be a simple remedy to it but the universals are better... good luck hope this helped you!!!
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Last edited by BIBOY; 06-11-2004 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 06-11-2004, 11:27 AM   #12419
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Default Clutch setup

Well, as long as everyone is discussing their Centax-3 clutch setups, I might as well through mine into the discussion.

This is what I have been running since day 1:

Clutchbell: lightweight (machined)
Spring: stiff
Flyweights: original flyweights modded with 1 setscrew in the end
Shoe: yellow
Clutch gap: 0.5mm
Endplay: minimal (0.07mm- ish)

I have been very happy with this setup. Great punch, no slippage. And still using my original thrustbearing... lube it on a regular basis.
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Old 06-11-2004, 11:30 AM   #12420
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
Does anybody knows where I can get the new universals for the 710?I've been popping dogbones from even the slightest impact.Some suggest running 197mm track width up front but it's still poppin out.

Popping out??
I have been running my 710 for a while now and never really had that problem. 3Racing dose make universals for the 710 and I think Serpent will have some soon for it also.
You can put fuel tubing inside the outdrive cup like BIBOY describe with the ballpoint pen spring to make the dogbone sit in better. Also make sure you have the right Serpent dogbone (#802332) on the 710 and also it's not bent for that may cause it to pop-out on impact.

Last edited by PUNISHER; 06-11-2004 at 11:36 AM.
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