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Old 04-06-2004, 07:11 PM   #7861
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
The only changed parts were:
- Rear tower
- Rear arm (longer hole for the pivot ball)
- Top bumper plate (new material and thicker design)
- Lower bumper plate (new material)

I don't know the market dates, as they depent on distributers stock etc.
If you guys need an official bumper plates tester count me in!! I have a perfect record of one lower broken every weekend. I should be sponsored
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:41 PM   #7862
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Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
If you guys need an official bumper plates tester count me in!! I have a perfect record of one lower broken every weekend. I should be sponsored
If that's reason enough to get free bumpers, I should get every single part for free!
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:57 PM   #7863
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Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
If you guys need an official bumper plates tester count me in!! I have a perfect record of one lower broken every weekend. I should be sponsored
I should be the one getting sponsored since I do heavy damage crash test ! Remember?
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:00 PM   #7864
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
When you're leaning out your engine (like you say till the engine speed starts to increase) how quickly are you doing the adjustments?
Do you turn the adjuster slowly until the engine revs increase or turn the adjuster through 1/4 turns and then let it idle a little before making then next adjustment?
The effect can be almost instantly. But if you're getting that, that means the needle is pretty lean.

After making adjustments, I would blip the throttle a few short times.

But remember that what I've described is just to get the ball park settings. If you need to tune it properly, you need to do what clmboa45 suggested which is to run it on the track and after a few rounds come in to check the engine idle and tune the needles. I believe Dennis (Motorman) suggest that you need at least about a tank or 2 till the chassis really soaks the heat from the engine and you get a more consistant engine tuning.
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:01 PM   #7865
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
This is a case where I can never get it adjusted on the bench. My thoughts follow. If you do the "pinch" test and squeeze slowly, the idle rpm should increase as the engine leans out. If it doesn't, you're too lean. Knowing that you're too rich, lean the LSN until the engine just increases in rpm and runs at idle. You will have to decrease idle speed at this point. Put the car on the track and run it hard. You should have the HSN adjusted to the rich side of the max power band. Now when you bring the car into the pits it will probably be idling fast and after several seconds, will drop down in idle rpm. This is a sign that the LSN is still too rich. Lean it an hour at a time, and run another 2 laps hard. Repeat the process. Turn down the idle rpm until the idle speed is slow and steady after running hard and returning to the pits. Check your temp. Temp at idle should quickly drop below 200F and stabilize. Do the pinch test and confirm that the engine is still rich at idle. This works for me.
If I get confused, every thing goes back to too rich and start over again. When you first start out it really helps to keep notes.
Jack, that's exactly what I do !
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:10 PM   #7866
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Thumbs up I have made some progress !!!!

ok, so lets see if I got it right, and ill tell you what i did today.

I didnt run the car on a track, but i started it up and cleared it, then I let it iddle for a little bit.

i pinched the hose and the car took like 8 seconds to rev up and forever to turn off.

so i leave my LSN till after doing the same thing of iddling and clearing the carb I was able to pinch the neddle and get a rev up reaction with in 2-3 seconds.

I also leaned my HSN a little bit so cut out some of the fuel that goes to the LSN. The temperature currently at iddle is 200-206F when I accel and prepend that I am driving, (while holding the car up with my hand) , i get 226F.

However, my exhaust is much cleaner than before and the clutch seems much more responsive and the car doesn flood as easily. What should I do next?

someone told me to look at my glow plug to see if I am lead or rich on the low end by looking at the bottom of the plug. if the bottom of the plug is wet and has a coloration then I am too rich. and if the coil is not silver then the highend is rich.
I was told to tune the engine so that glow up is as clean as possible. ?

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Old 04-06-2004, 09:26 PM   #7867
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Default Re: Mazda6

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
I got to run my Mazda6 for the first time last weekend and was very impressed how well balance the car felt. Its between a 2.1 Stratus and an Alfa Losi. Has good front-end downforce like the Alfa but without the agressive feeling (smother). Also I heard that Protoform just lost the rights to make the Stratus bodies so this Mazda6 is a very good replacement!!

Here is my Mazda6............

Hey Punisher I was wondering which exact colors did you use to paint your new mazada6? also was the design from masks? and did you use an airbrush?

good work

thanks Jason
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:36 PM   #7868
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
What is up with this Nova Mega 2102 listed in the "new products" section on serpent-usa.com. It is not listed on mytsn, and it does not follow the pattern of increasing part numbers (2103-2104-2105-2106).

Here's a link:
http://www.serpent-usa.com/novamega/megnew_1.html
The 2102 part number (Novamega SX12 3P-RE) looks like a plain engine. It's strange that they put it as "new" product as Novamega already has the various 3 port engine combinations.

Perhaps it's the new long stroke 3 port engine similar to Novarossi RRL3?
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:41 PM   #7869
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Default Re: I have made some progress !!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
someone told me to look at my glow plug to see if I am lead or rich on the low end by looking at the bottom of the plug. if the bottom of the plug is wet and has a coloration then I am too rich. and if the coil is not silver then the highend is rich.
I was told to tune the engine so that glow up is as clean as possible. ?
Congrats. At least you're making some progress.

Yes, you can "read" the glowplugs to tell the condition of the engine. Look at Dennis Richey's tips here for more info.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:49 PM   #7870
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Default Re: Re: Mazda6

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
Hey Punisher I was wondering which exact colors did you use to paint your new mazada6? also was the design from masks? and did you use an airbrush?

good work

thanks Jason
Thanks for the compliment on my work.
The color on the Mazda6 is a pearl satin yellow with florescent yellow and orange. No maskÖ. hand drawn with masking tape. Those pictures didnít come out to clear so here is my friends picture he took some that body with a better quality camera.

Ooohh yea, it was done all by airbrush.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:49 PM   #7871
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Here are all my racing bodies for my 710 & 705...........
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:56 PM   #7872
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
It seems (we need to test more to confirm...) that running thicker oil and larger holes increases forward traction and helps braking stability. Micheal and Rene used 50 Wt and 1.2mm holes in Germany as well. Thay said using it on only front or rear doesn't work. As far as my experience goes running a to big difference in shock settings does not suit our car anyway.

It seems that although the damper with 50wt and 1.2mm holes feels heavy (damping wise) it is different from using 35wt and less holes that initially feels the same.
Julius,
Was Michael doing this with the front or rear shocks..........or both?

*edit*
ooppss, "Thay said using it on only front or rear doesn't work"
Didn't see that the frist time I read


So, only it works with all four shocks.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:58 PM   #7873
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The 2102 part number (Novamega SX12 3P-RE) looks like a plain engine. It's strange that they put it as "new" product as Novamega already has the various 3 port engine combinations.

Perhaps it's the new long stroke 3 port engine similar to Novarossi RRL3?
The 2102 is the old specification motor based on the first generation RS12 motors with the cast piston, not CNC machined.

Here are the specs:

2102 SX12 3P-RE
RPMl 34.000
Bore x Stroke 13,80 mm x 14,04 mm
Ports 3
Piston Type casted type
Crankshaft 11 mm - SG
Plug Style normal
Exhaust Type Rear
Carb 5,5 mm - Aluminium alloy - Slide - Double adjustment
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:00 PM   #7874
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Here are all my racing bodies for my 710 & 705...........
i have to say...u'r the man!!!!!!!!! feel so jealous now. my eyes on the middle one but my heart goes to the mazda 6. i love this car and the way u paint it makes me even love it so much.
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:07 PM   #7875
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PUNISHER: when you are drawing out your designs do you, draw them on paper 1st and decide what colors you want to use or do you do it all on the body:?also what kind of airbrush are you using??

thanks Jason
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