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Old 04-06-2004, 02:40 AM   #7846
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That's right. As the Stratus 1 has less steering using the higher roll center helps loosen the rear a bit. With the extra downforce and steering of the Frewer Stratus you can use the lower roll center to get more grip and still get the steering.
Thanks for the reply. I will currently try to put a higher rear roll center with the Frewer Loletta shell that I was testing. Off power and on power steering suffered severely on the moderate speed track. I guess it was due to too much rear downforce generated from the shell. I'll probably loose the rear gurney strip too.
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Old 04-06-2004, 02:57 AM   #7847
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Thanks for the reply. I will currently try to put a higher rear roll center with the Frewer Loletta shell that I was testing. Off power and on power steering suffered severely on the moderate speed track. I guess it was due to too much rear downforce generated from the shell. I'll probably loose the rear gurney strip too.
There is a setup from Mark Green (one of our English drivers) with a Lola shell in MyTSN.
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Old 04-06-2004, 03:05 AM   #7848
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There is a setup from Mark Green (one of our English drivers) with a Lola shell in MyTSN.
Yup. I saw his report. He used a very high rear roll center.

But there was a question about why he used 1.2 mm holes in the shock piston instead of the stock 1.0 mm... How do you think this affects the handling of the car?

I notice thicker shock oil with more and bigger holes. Thinner shock oil with smaller and less holes...
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Old 04-06-2004, 03:10 AM   #7849
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Volvo

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Yup. I saw his report. He used a very high rear roll center.

But there was a question about why he used 1.2 mm holes in the shock piston instead of the stock 1.0 mm... How do you think this affects the handling of the car?

I notice thicker shock oil with more and bigger holes. Thinner shock oil with smaller and less holes...
It seems (we need to test more to confirm...) that running thicker oil and larger holes increases forward traction and helps braking stability. Micheal and Rene used 50 Wt and 1.2mm holes in Germany as well. Thay said using it on only front or rear doesn't work. As far as my experience goes running a to big difference in shock settings does not suit our car anyway.

It seems that although the damper with 50wt and 1.2mm holes feels heavy (damping wise) it is different from using 35wt and less holes that initially feels the same.
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Old 04-06-2004, 03:36 AM   #7850
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Volvo

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Originally posted by Julius
It seems (we need to test more to confirm...) that running thicker oil and larger holes increases forward traction and helps braking stability. Micheal and Rene used 50 Wt and 1.2mm holes in Germany as well. Thay said using it on only front or rear doesn't work. As far as my experience goes running a to big difference in shock settings does not suit our car anyway.

It seems that although the damper with 50wt and 1.2mm holes feels heavy (damping wise) it is different from using 35wt and less holes that initially feels the same.
Thanks for the info Julius. I see that Michael's race report is just up. I believe you guys also used 1.2 mm hole pistons in the Euro race in Portugal last year...
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Old 04-06-2004, 03:47 AM   #7851
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Thanks for the info Julius. I see that Michael's race report is just up. I believe you guys also used 1.2 mm hole pistons in the Euro race in Portugal last year...
We did. But with 40 oil that time.
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:23 AM   #7852
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Hey Julius, those parts you just mentioned, have they been made available yet by Serpent?
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:46 AM   #7853
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Quote:
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Hey Julius, those parts you just mentioned, have they been made available yet by Serpent?
You'll need a 1.2mm drill bit and a steady hand.
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:51 AM   #7854
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Sorry, I meant the updated parts like the bumpers and rear plastic link?
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:23 AM   #7855
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
You'll need a 1.2mm drill bit and a steady hand.
Whats a steady hand . I get complaints even on the rostrum from my hands shaking the whole thing so much

j/k
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:05 AM   #7856
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Hey Julius, those parts you just mentioned, have they been made available yet by Serpent?
Quote:
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I don't know the market dates, as they depent on distributers stock etc.
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Old 04-06-2004, 11:31 AM   #7857
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I'll lean the LSN so that I can get a constant idle and at the same time backing out on the idle needle so that at neutral, the slide carb opening is about 1 mm. When you lean the LSN to a point when the idle RPM starts to go up, richen it about 1/4 turn out. The idle should be steady.
When you're leaning out your engine (like you say till the engine speed starts to increase) how quickly are you doing the adjustments?
Do you turn the adjuster slowly until the engine revs increase or turn the adjuster through 1/4 turns and then let it idle a little before making then next adjustment?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-06-2004, 11:39 AM   #7858
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Quote:
When you're leaning out your engine (like you say till the engine speed starts to increase) how quickly are you doing the adjustments?
Do you turn the adjuster slowly until the engine revs increase or turn the adjuster through 1/4 turns and then let it idle a little before making then next adjustment?

you make an adjustment and then you clear the carb , then you let it iddle, and then you make a nother change..... right?
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Old 04-06-2004, 04:10 PM   #7859
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
you make an adjustment and then you clear the carb , then you let it iddle, and then you make a nother change..... right?
This is a case where I can never get it adjusted on the bench. My thoughts follow. If you do the "pinch" test and squeeze slowly, the idle rpm should increase as the engine leans out. If it doesn't, you're too lean. Knowing that you're too rich, lean the LSN until the engine just increases in rpm and runs at idle. You will have to decrease idle speed at this point. Put the car on the track and run it hard. You should have the HSN adjusted to the rich side of the max power band. Now when you bring the car into the pits it will probably be idling fast and after several seconds, will drop down in idle rpm. This is a sign that the LSN is still too rich. Lean it an hour at a time, and run another 2 laps hard. Repeat the process. Turn down the idle rpm until the idle speed is slow and steady after running hard and returning to the pits. Check your temp. Temp at idle should quickly drop below 200F and stabilize. Do the pinch test and confirm that the engine is still rich at idle. This works for me.
If I get confused, every thing goes back to too rich and start over again. When you first start out it really helps to keep notes.

Last edited by clmbia45; 04-06-2004 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:02 PM   #7860
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What is up with this Nova Mega 2102 listed in the "new products" section on serpent-usa.com. It is not listed on mytsn, and it does not follow the pattern of increasing part numbers (2103-2104-2105-2106).

Here's a link:
http://www.serpent-usa.com/novamega/megnew_1.html
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