Serpent 710
03-20-2004 | 08:42 PM
#6481
Tech Prophet
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 19,679
From: MORDOR
Originally posted by baller360
do you guys think that the 200mm hpi mobile 1 nsx body will fit on the serpent 710?
do you guys think that the 200mm hpi mobile 1 nsx body will fit on the serpent 710?
Are you going to be racing with the 710? Get bodies like the Stratus, Alfa or the new Mazda 6.
03-20-2004 | 08:51 PM
#6483
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,069
From: Nuremberg, Germany
Originally posted by InitialD
Woow. Either you're up too early or if you're anything like me, just going back to sleep !
Woow. Either you're up too early or if you're anything like me, just going back to sleep !
I'm awake 
Normally, during the week, I'd have been up nearly an hour by now - I get up really early! and for some reason, only known to my brain, he has decided that 5:30 is a good time to wake up on the weekend!! 
03-20-2004 | 10:51 PM
#6485
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,013
From: Taipei
Originally posted by InitialD
Try 0 toe instead in the front. That should be neutral.
The thing is the car has traction roll only on new tires. With smaller diameter used tires it does not traction roll and runs great.
You can actually attribute the traction roll problem to too much droop. Reducing droop should help in some ways. When the tires wear down and when you reset your ride height back to 6 mm without doing any compensation with regards to your droop settings, you're actually limiting the droop without you knowing it.
Remember that when you change the ride height back to your original with worn down tires (smaller diameter), you need to increase droop. Doing nothing to the droop settings would limit the droop automatically.
Stock tires are softer in the rear. My guess is that running same shore front and rear makes your car oversteer on your track. Perhaps that's your source of traction roll problem also.
Anyway, are you the only one running the 710 at your track? Are they having traction roll problems too? What about other cars? From the problems you've described, it looks like you're the sole 710 driver.
Try 0 toe instead in the front. That should be neutral.
The thing is the car has traction roll only on new tires. With smaller diameter used tires it does not traction roll and runs great.
You can actually attribute the traction roll problem to too much droop. Reducing droop should help in some ways. When the tires wear down and when you reset your ride height back to 6 mm without doing any compensation with regards to your droop settings, you're actually limiting the droop without you knowing it.
Remember that when you change the ride height back to your original with worn down tires (smaller diameter), you need to increase droop. Doing nothing to the droop settings would limit the droop automatically.
Stock tires are softer in the rear. My guess is that running same shore front and rear makes your car oversteer on your track. Perhaps that's your source of traction roll problem also.
Anyway, are you the only one running the 710 at your track? Are they having traction roll problems too? What about other cars? From the problems you've described, it looks like you're the sole 710 driver.
03-20-2004 | 11:16 PM
#6487
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,146
From: South FLorida
It is 2am, so i should say that yesterday saturday i spend from 4pm-7pm at the track with my 710 for the first time to actually practice for todays race (I need to sleep first)
the stock setup is great, i only had to change to harder springs in the front - I will make the whole car (red) tomorrow since I am getting a little too much roll in the rear.
I am not having any push problem, specially when the tyres warmed up. My engine is great, i love it. Pretty quick compared to the OS I had on my TG10R
i did hit some boards with doing practice racing with this other guy with an RS4 and bent my front rims and one of the lower suspension arms in the front.
tomorrow before the race i will fix that and mod the clutch weights. I am also going to trim my wheel wells a little more because for some reason the rear fenders bends behind the car and has messed up my tyres also.
The guy with the RS4 has a .12 RB in his car, but my car was much faster, this was notisable down the straight way.
Overall this car handles very nice, but i do get a little bit of tracktion roll on the rear. on a turn my inside rear wheel come off the road... I am not sure if by using harder springs i will fix this.. or maybe i just need to slow down.
so in recap..
broken parts:
bumper lower plate,
lower A arm (1)
one bent rim (I noticed that when the rims bend they cut into the nuckles.. =( )
I am so happy with this car, I want to thank all those who helped me with the tips !
the stock setup is great, i only had to change to harder springs in the front - I will make the whole car (red) tomorrow since I am getting a little too much roll in the rear.
I am not having any push problem, specially when the tyres warmed up. My engine is great, i love it. Pretty quick compared to the OS I had on my TG10R
i did hit some boards with doing practice racing with this other guy with an RS4 and bent my front rims and one of the lower suspension arms in the front.
tomorrow before the race i will fix that and mod the clutch weights. I am also going to trim my wheel wells a little more because for some reason the rear fenders bends behind the car and has messed up my tyres also.
The guy with the RS4 has a .12 RB in his car, but my car was much faster, this was notisable down the straight way.
Overall this car handles very nice, but i do get a little bit of tracktion roll on the rear. on a turn my inside rear wheel come off the road... I am not sure if by using harder springs i will fix this.. or maybe i just need to slow down.
so in recap..
broken parts:
bumper lower plate,
lower A arm (1)
one bent rim (I noticed that when the rims bend they cut into the nuckles.. =( )
I am so happy with this car, I want to thank all those who helped me with the tips !
03-21-2004 | 01:41 AM
#6488
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,330
From: SoCal
Hey I have a question for you guys.
No offence intended whatsoever. Is the 710 really not that durable? Because from what I have seen, people are breaking parts on their first runs from minor impacts.
From what I have seen on this forum, the parts that break the most are:
1.front upper/lower bumpers
2. Rear lower a arms (pivot balls stripping from them)
3. front upper a arms
4. rear shock tower
Are there any other parts that are vulnerable? Also, does anyone know when serpent will release the revised version containing the improved parts?
thx
No offence intended whatsoever. Is the 710 really not that durable? Because from what I have seen, people are breaking parts on their first runs from minor impacts.
From what I have seen on this forum, the parts that break the most are:
1.front upper/lower bumpers
2. Rear lower a arms (pivot balls stripping from them)
3. front upper a arms
4. rear shock tower
Are there any other parts that are vulnerable? Also, does anyone know when serpent will release the revised version containing the improved parts?
thx
03-21-2004 | 02:12 AM
#6489
Tech Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,447
From: Northern Ireland
I guess it has something to do with temperature. Most of the people saying they broke parts are in hotter climate countries. In Europe and especially the UK we are not having any problems with the cars breaking parts.
I guess it is mainly due to were the parts are produced. In mild European climate the parts will work fine until they are shipped to hotter climates were the heat softens and weakens the plastic.
Same with cars made in hotter climate areas. They are fine in that climate and when introduced to a colder climate they tend to become more brittle and easier broke.
This is just my perception based on what cars are breaking most in different areas.
I guess it is mainly due to were the parts are produced. In mild European climate the parts will work fine until they are shipped to hotter climates were the heat softens and weakens the plastic.
Same with cars made in hotter climate areas. They are fine in that climate and when introduced to a colder climate they tend to become more brittle and easier broke.
This is just my perception based on what cars are breaking most in different areas.
03-21-2004 | 02:16 AM
#6491
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 111
From: Hong Kong
My experience with the 710 in 2 weeks....
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
The rear shock tower is another crazilly weak point. One day I went through 2 rear shock towers.
Some might say that its my driving that leads to breakage as seen in my car, but here at the local track a lot of 710 owners are seen walking on the track finding missing parts.... 3 friends of mine have the FW05, and they are just learning to drive, so their cars are bumping, and sometimes flying, all over the track, but the FW is much more durable. Also, the Serpent parts, even though now price seems lower than before, is still too high. e.g. the cost of one lower a-arm of the 710 can buy a tree of FW front A-Arms, not to mention that Serpent parts are sold in pieces, and left and right parts are not interchangeable!
In addition, the screw holes on the plastic parts seems to strip easily. 2-3 times tighting-retighting and its highly possible that the hole would wear out. I did not use excessive force.
While I don't mind paying for a premium for a better car, my experience with the 710 makes me a laughing topic amongst my friends. The 710, not only its easily broken, but also its hard to setup and drive. My friends with the FW05 and Mugen are newbies, and they just setup according to the manual. I've driven their cars and wow what a difference they are in driving compared to my Serpent! Even some friends who are A-main Serpent drivers, who tried my friend's FW, and they comment that the car is so easy to drive that he just keep on driving until we pry his hands out of the tranny! The only good about my 710 is on the straight, but that is mainly because of my Max 5 port, not the car!
I don't mind to put flame on this topic, and all this experience is just my personal experience, but I am very disappointed about my 710......Today, finally I call a quit, take out the engines and electrics from the 710, and sold the chassis. I am going to put them into a FW05.
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
The rear shock tower is another crazilly weak point. One day I went through 2 rear shock towers.
Some might say that its my driving that leads to breakage as seen in my car, but here at the local track a lot of 710 owners are seen walking on the track finding missing parts.... 3 friends of mine have the FW05, and they are just learning to drive, so their cars are bumping, and sometimes flying, all over the track, but the FW is much more durable. Also, the Serpent parts, even though now price seems lower than before, is still too high. e.g. the cost of one lower a-arm of the 710 can buy a tree of FW front A-Arms, not to mention that Serpent parts are sold in pieces, and left and right parts are not interchangeable!
In addition, the screw holes on the plastic parts seems to strip easily. 2-3 times tighting-retighting and its highly possible that the hole would wear out. I did not use excessive force.
While I don't mind paying for a premium for a better car, my experience with the 710 makes me a laughing topic amongst my friends. The 710, not only its easily broken, but also its hard to setup and drive. My friends with the FW05 and Mugen are newbies, and they just setup according to the manual. I've driven their cars and wow what a difference they are in driving compared to my Serpent! Even some friends who are A-main Serpent drivers, who tried my friend's FW, and they comment that the car is so easy to drive that he just keep on driving until we pry his hands out of the tranny! The only good about my 710 is on the straight, but that is mainly because of my Max 5 port, not the car!
I don't mind to put flame on this topic, and all this experience is just my personal experience, but I am very disappointed about my 710......Today, finally I call a quit, take out the engines and electrics from the 710, and sold the chassis. I am going to put them into a FW05.
03-21-2004 | 02:52 AM
#6493
Tech Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,447
From: Northern Ireland
Originally posted by jasoncsc
My experience with the 710 in 2 weeks....
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
My experience with the 710 in 2 weeks....
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
03-21-2004 | 04:02 AM
#6494
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,013
From: Taipei
Originally posted by jasoncsc
My experience with the 710 in 2 weeks....
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
The rear shock tower is another crazilly weak point. One day I went through 2 rear shock towers.
Some might say that its my driving that leads to breakage as seen in my car, but here at the local track a lot of 710 owners are seen walking on the track finding missing parts.... 3 friends of mine have the FW05, and they are just learning to drive, so their cars are bumping, and sometimes flying, all over the track, but the FW is much more durable. Also, the Serpent parts, even though now price seems lower than before, is still too high. e.g. the cost of one lower a-arm of the 710 can buy a tree of FW front A-Arms, not to mention that Serpent parts are sold in pieces, and left and right parts are not interchangeable!
In addition, the screw holes on the plastic parts seems to strip easily. 2-3 times tighting-retighting and its highly possible that the hole would wear out. I did not use excessive force.
While I don't mind paying for a premium for a better car, my experience with the 710 makes me a laughing topic amongst my friends. The 710, not only its easily broken, but also its hard to setup and drive. My friends with the FW05 and Mugen are newbies, and they just setup according to the manual. I've driven their cars and wow what a difference they are in driving compared to my Serpent! Even some friends who are A-main Serpent drivers, who tried my friend's FW, and they comment that the car is so easy to drive that he just keep on driving until we pry his hands out of the tranny! The only good about my 710 is on the straight, but that is mainly because of my Max 5 port, not the car!
I don't mind to put flame on this topic, and all this experience is just my personal experience, but I am very disappointed about my 710......Today, finally I call a quit, take out the engines and electrics from the 710, and sold the chassis. I am going to put them into a FW05.
My experience with the 710 in 2 weeks....
Yes the car is definitely a "glass car". Parts breaks easily! I went through 3 rear shock tower, lost 2 dogbones, 3 one way drive cups, 2 pivot balls, not to mention repair time and cost.....All committed while the body suffer only minor rub marks!
Of specially weak point is the front steering block, one minor rub on the side and the whole thing just pop out of the pivot balls, and there goes your dogbone, front one-way drive cup, and sometimes the pivot ball. Even if you can salvage the parts from the track it takes time to re-install them, and once after the steering block pop out of the pivot balls then it will keep poping because it seems that the sttering block was weaken.
The rear shock tower is another crazilly weak point. One day I went through 2 rear shock towers.
Some might say that its my driving that leads to breakage as seen in my car, but here at the local track a lot of 710 owners are seen walking on the track finding missing parts.... 3 friends of mine have the FW05, and they are just learning to drive, so their cars are bumping, and sometimes flying, all over the track, but the FW is much more durable. Also, the Serpent parts, even though now price seems lower than before, is still too high. e.g. the cost of one lower a-arm of the 710 can buy a tree of FW front A-Arms, not to mention that Serpent parts are sold in pieces, and left and right parts are not interchangeable!
In addition, the screw holes on the plastic parts seems to strip easily. 2-3 times tighting-retighting and its highly possible that the hole would wear out. I did not use excessive force.
While I don't mind paying for a premium for a better car, my experience with the 710 makes me a laughing topic amongst my friends. The 710, not only its easily broken, but also its hard to setup and drive. My friends with the FW05 and Mugen are newbies, and they just setup according to the manual. I've driven their cars and wow what a difference they are in driving compared to my Serpent! Even some friends who are A-main Serpent drivers, who tried my friend's FW, and they comment that the car is so easy to drive that he just keep on driving until we pry his hands out of the tranny! The only good about my 710 is on the straight, but that is mainly because of my Max 5 port, not the car!
I don't mind to put flame on this topic, and all this experience is just my personal experience, but I am very disappointed about my 710......Today, finally I call a quit, take out the engines and electrics from the 710, and sold the chassis. I am going to put them into a FW05.
03-21-2004 | 05:17 AM
#6495
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 247
From: Near Serpent (grrrr)
Re: Re: Re: FAQ Version 1.0 Now Available!!!!