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Old 02-19-2004 | 02:23 AM
  #4591  
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Originally posted by Schrijver99

Setup book

Instruction Manual
Reference Guide
Thanks for the link. Do I need to be a member because when I tried the link you posted its blank
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Old 02-19-2004 | 02:24 AM
  #4592  
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Originally posted by cyba888
Thanks for the link. Do I need to be a member because when I tried the link you posted its blank
See my comments above
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Old 02-19-2004 | 02:36 AM
  #4593  
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Originally posted by markp27
See my comments above
I did see your post, its just that I thought that it would direct me to the link and it would have a login menu or some sort. But anyways I signed up and it may take a few days before I am approved.
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Old 02-19-2004 | 03:26 AM
  #4594  
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Originally posted by InitialD
The old tank already had a filter !

Just that the old one did not filter smaller particles and that is why an external one is needed.

As always, Serpent will not come out with a new part number for the tank. I'm pretty sure of that. They will just replace the tank with the one with the bronze filter. I think if you buy them as spare part, you would probablt get the new one.

Else, if yours is not broken, there is no need to change. Just keep using the external filter with it !
I ordered a spare fuel tank to rule it out of the tune problems i was having it was the same as the original kit talk, meaning the old tank as you call it.

SN
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Old 02-19-2004 | 03:32 AM
  #4595  
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Originally posted by S710_Nut
I ordered a spare fuel tank to rule it out of the tune problems i was having it was the same as the original kit talk, meaning the old tank as you call it.
Still having engine tuning problems? Have you changed the pipe? Where did you get your tank? I've not seen the new tank sold here as a spare at the moment. All are the older ones.

Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust.
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Old 02-19-2004 | 03:52 AM
  #4596  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Still having engine tuning problems? Have you changed the pipe? Where did you get your tank? I've not seen the new tank sold here as a spare at the moment. All are the older ones.

Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust.
InitialD:

I got my tank from rc mushroom. These tuing problems are almost gone. Still get the occasional one, I have my new pipe to install but am afraid of getting t boned and destroying it on the mainden voyage.

SN
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Old 02-19-2004 | 08:24 AM
  #4597  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Still having engine tuning problems? Have you changed the pipe? Where did you get your tank? I've not seen the new tank sold here as a spare at the moment. All are the older ones.

Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust.
With the "new" tank I still use an external filter.
No in tank filter I know of will keep all particles out. In the .12 engines even the smallest particles can cause tuning problems.

Better safe than sorry.
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Old 02-19-2004 | 08:43 AM
  #4598  
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I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time
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Old 02-19-2004 | 10:52 AM
  #4599  
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Default Re: Re: winternats set-up?

Originally posted by r12 schumacher
here is Salven's set up from MYTSN.COM
... snip ...
Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMEGA
Version: #2106
Head shims: 0.3mm
Glowplug: 7TF
Pipe: #2171
Header: #2174
Length:
Fuel: 30%
Remarks:
Chassis performance: very good in qualifying. less in final
Engine performance: good, but Swauger was much better
This could very well be why. I noticed Swauger was using 40% on a JP (can't remember the pipe) and MS using the #2106 (where on earth was his KHM?) and 30%.

Not sure about the climate in Florida during the winter but a 7TF is pretty cold while Swauger used a #6.

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Old 02-19-2004 | 10:53 AM
  #4600  
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Originally posted by markp27
Had to quick make another post! Was on 666 posts!!!!!!!!
Superstitious!
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Old 02-19-2004 | 10:55 AM
  #4601  
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Originally posted by Julius
With the "new" tank I still use an external filter.
No in tank filter I know of will keep all particles out. In the .12 engines even the smallest particles can cause tuning problems.

Better safe than sorry.
Amazing, and I always thought that the wiremesh net they use in the in-line filters were useless against fine particles!
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Old 02-19-2004 | 11:09 AM
  #4602  
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Originally posted by cyba888
I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight?
I haven't read that anywhere before, are you sure? Why on earth then do Serpent recommend the Hudy set-up system? With it, you rest the axles on in their respective holes of the system and read off the camber measurements hence this is the same as measuring your camber with the car resting on its wheels.

It doesn't make sense to set your camber with the car lifted in the air especially if you're using the Hudy set-up system!

I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time
You're right to some extent because camber changes depends on how much downstop you have and also the geometry of the suspension arms.
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Old 02-19-2004 | 12:05 PM
  #4603  
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Originally posted by cyba888
I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time
Correct me if I'm wrong but is'nt this the way it used to be done in the Impulse manual, you would set the static camber with the car raised and then set your driving camber with your shock pre-load collars with the car sitting on it's wheels which used to screw up all your other settings. This was updated later on just prior to the launch of the 705, check out the link below. This has changed again with the advent of the 710.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=4937&ccid=8
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Old 02-19-2004 | 12:08 PM
  #4604  
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Unhappy Re: Re: Re: winternats set-up?

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
This could very well be why. I noticed Swauger was using 40% on a JP (can't remember the pipe) and MS using the #2106 (where on earth was his KHM?) and 30%.

Not sure about the climate in Florida during the winter but a 7TF is pretty cold while Swauger used a #6.

Salven wrote on mytsn that a few boxes of teamequipment never made it to the track. Like the engines and tyres I believe. So that explains where Mr.KHM was at that moment.


From mytsn copy/paste

" When we arrived on the track Sunday morning, I still thought that I will race one class only, but I wasn’t sure which one. Things became worse, because we missed one of our pieces of luggage, so I had no tools, engines and spare parts. Also our tires never arrived, so we had to rely on borrowed stuff"
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Old 02-19-2004 | 12:26 PM
  #4605  
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Originally posted by cyba888
I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time
I will try to resume from old article in My TSN, that came out many years ago when the Impulse hit the market.


"The camber angles are adjusted with the suspension in full down position. Because the camber angle is measured with the wheels hanging down, the angle is always positive. This is camber-out angle. When setting-up the chassis it is better to adjust the camber angles with the shock absorbers removed and the anti-roll bar disconnected to make sure that they don't interfere.
The reason to measure the camber in suspension-down position (camber-out angle) is to get a good starting point for the geometry. First the down-stops are adjusted. then the camber out angle, and next the ride height, which is not measured by chassis clearance, but by the camber-in angle (with the car on its wheels in stationary position). In this way the suspension can be set independent of tyre size.
The actual ride-height or chassis clearence is not measured when using the Set-Up Procedure, because this would change when tyre diameters change. Instead, after having set the camber angles in full down suspension position, the ride height is the set by measuring the camber angle in ride height position, and the adjustment is made by adjusting the coil-over springs on the front and rear shocks until the required camber-in is achieved."

And as I recall the Impulse setting sheet gave you elevated camber measurements, and full weight camber measurements.
I don't know if this setting method is still applicable to the new 710, but I hope it helps to clear the issue on camber settings.
And I think this method is when you don't have a Hudy system.
For Hudy system I think Julius published an article in MY TSN last year regarding Setting ride height and Camber.
AFM
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