Look in the FAQ.

clmbia45 tested the stock kit tires with his durometer and found that the shores were 40 in front and 37 in the rear.

That is why I mention to change the tires that you know the shore and the box stock setup of the 710 will not understeer terribly.

dee, I thank you....

Check this out... I just ordered...

The racing Brake pads and the Stainless brake disk...

The question is not whether my car will stop... it is whether it will go...

Goodness Comes To Those Who Wait


...

Hey crashed... I agree with you... I offered, but I think there seems to have been a bit of a problem because he doesnt want to pay the shipping cost, tower just hit me with a $30 for $150 and rc mushroom were $100 shipping the last time, will be about the same again...

Hmmm, my config as it stands...

Serpent 710 (obviously)
Novarossi NS12S3A1
Novarossi EFRA legal in-line pipe
Racing brake pads (Serpent)
Stainless steel ventilated disk brake (Serpent)
Multiplex Profi Digital Servo (Throttle) red
KO-Propo PDS 2143 Digital servo (Steering)
KO-Propo Electronic switch
KO-Propo failsafe
KO-Propo Radio, EX11 with receiver...
and a whole load more...

I also have an HPI Honda Civic which I will play with and see how it goes... I hope she's fast like I planned... What do you all think?

I want to know this, the tighter the spring nut the sooner the clucth will engage ? or it is the other way around.

I am refereing to the 1.0mm adjustments that the instructions mention. If i make that distance 1.5mm will my clutch be more responsive?

currently I have to give the car alot of gas for it to move..

please help me what should i do!

Thanks D. Was waiting for that but had to surf back 4 pages to find it. Phew!

with the above suggestion do i still used the yellow springs or the red springs?

Hi Profox...

From what I remember about Centax clutches (not serpent but the principle is the same) is if you make the spring tighter, the clutch takes later\less responsive, but if you make it looser, it will be more responsive, but you ont want to make it too responsive or it will 'respond' too soon and bog the motor down which is not good at all...

people at my track use 35wt and red...

I am using 40 and yellow....


can someone please answer my previoues posts? or am I asking stupid questions?

ok Thanks man !!

is the silver spring better than the one in the kit? (gold)
which one is softer?

Sorry, I didn't see your question... You should turn it out, here is what King Dee said earlier...


I'm afraid changing to the 909518 Centax II clutch spring may make the situation worse. You could take even longer for the engine to engage the clutch ! The reason is that the 909518 Centax II clutch spring (1.8 mm diameter) is harder than the 6586 stock spring (1.7 mm diameter).

What I suggest is to loosen the Centax pre-adjusting nut (6583) until you get a decent clutch engagement without clutch slippage or without the engine revving too high. The 1.0 mm setting can be a little too much for some engines to engage the clutch.

Note that you do not have to take off the clutch bell to be able to access the Centax pre-adjusting nut. You can adjust it externally by inserting a 1.5 mm allen into one of the 2 holes on the clutch bell and catching one of the 2 grooves on the pre-adjusting nut.

Once that is done and the pre-adjusting nut held firmly externally by the 1.5 mm allen, turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE to loosen the pre-adjusting nut to get earlier engagement and ANTICLOCKWISE on the flywheel to tighten the pre-adjusting nut to get a later clutch engagement. You want to turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE.

I would suggest keeping the current spring. I think go to 0.5 mm and try from there and LET ME KNOW.... you are not the only one with the problem, when I build my car I will have to remember ALL of this...

Hey InitialD,this the new drivers stand that we built at our track!

hey, that looks sweet... Are all the tracks in the states so BIG