Sorry guys, Am I missing something? Where is the FAQ Page?? Also, I was reading in the Starting Grid that Art(Team Serpent Designer and etc...) was saying that he fixed the sluggish clutch issues by just changing the spring. He gave a part #, I'll post it when I get a chance.

Guys,

As discussed last week, i lowered the front roll centre to see what impact it would have on my mid corner steering. I gave it a try yesterday afternoon and the car feels spot on, i can really hold the apex off the corner now. But then the tyres went off again. Can't blame them the tack surface was still 47 degrees at 4 o'clock in the afternoon

SN

This is what "Art" does for a bang on clutch. He uses a #909518 spring. End play is set per Serpent specifications. Art doesn't check the distance to the adjusting nut. He says he just turns it in or out until it works the way he wants it to.
Art said with this setup the clutch is right on the money.

Mark- awesome job on the Faq page. Thats just what is needed for the 710. I tried to do one on the TC3 but not even close to as nice as you did.

do not forget to mod the weights, on the high bite tracks you will get way too much clutch slippage, you can run the stock spring just fine as long as you do the mod to the weights.. initall posted a pic earlier in the thread.. the problem is the shoes are too as much.
light.. so you need to allow them to have more mass to push with.. hopefully there will be a yellow set of shoes avalable that has more weight I perfered how the cen II worked with the yellow shoe pivoting.

on a low bite track the stock settings would be much easier to drive, and you would most likley not notice the slippage nearly

Thanks to all you guys for helping me out with my clutch. I will take all your advice and try them out this weekend. Again, my sincerest thanks to you all

You deserve all the credit Mark. I think the snakes should pays you the royalty for doing that

With your name still printed on the top of the page, can I use your file outside this forum ?

About the Apex, you can hold it becuase of more steering than before? or the rear does not spin as before (on throttle)

Great coverage!!!

I tought those kind of things can only happened in my local race

Being a TQ, I would say no problem on both engine performance and driving skill (assuming only, didn`t watch the race). The end result really just a waste of a great time. But the good things is now no shock breaking? only not using `liking` or `supposed to be` engine? maybe by the end of this year I might be releasing a book called `1001 Excuses`.

Centax II with the yellow shoe flyweights? The Centax II had the same black material flyweights as the Centax 3. Just that the flyweights on the Centax II were larger. Part number is 909515. The stock Centax II clutch shoes were the yellow ones as oppose to the higher bite XP ones on the Centax 3.

Perhaps you're right about the mass of the flyweights ! We should probably put some ball bearings in them to add weight !

Cool ! So the front upper arms are raised up now I assume...

Ah, the perils of running rubber tires... Give foams a try !

I think ammdrew is right. If you mount the flyweights differently between the pins, the stock spring is plenty stiff enough as the flyweights come out pretty agressively. Then you can tighten the pre-adjusting nut pretty deep in. I have mine at about 1.2 mm and the engine does not rev high when the clutch starts engaging without slipping.

Perhaps if you mount the flyweights as per the manual, I think you need to loosen the pre-tension spring a lot. By loosening it so that it engages, the tendency of the clutch slipping is high as the stock Centax spring is "too weak" to hold the clutch shoes onto the clutch bell. Hence the change to a stronger spring was better for Art. Just my thought.

But anyways, Art is right on the money with regards to setting the pre-tension nut. Set it on the track to get the best punch. So happen that I turned mine down at 1.2 mm from the get go and it worked flawlessly. No tuning required.

If I hit the brakes and my car turns left what adjustments do I need to do.
One other question is at high speeds when you slam on the brakes could it be possible your car can stop without turning at all, just like a real car?

I think you're not making any attempt to read ! Read the thread above and also the FAQ. You need to check for tweak in the car. Also, your brakes cannot be set hard. Just enough to make the car slow down and not lock the rear wheels. Limit the rear droop as much as you possibly can and tighten your rear diff for harder diff action.

Firstly, a real car does not come with a front one way ! So with 4WD braking, any car will stop nicely.

Sharper cornering without bleeding speed.