fmolzer says: Here is what we found with the 710 that was worth changing: 1. InitialD:s (or whoever was the inventor):s clutchmod is definately an improvment. Serpent is working on new flyweights that will improve how the clutch engages.
2. Shocktower mod: Ammdrew and I found that the front shocks did not take much to brake if you contacted the boards in Ft Myers. (shafts snap). To prevent this from happening, we put spacers between the shocktower and front bulkheads and monited the shocks behind the tower instead of in front. This allows the shocks to flex backward on impact and put a definate end to the shafts breaking. The rear shocktower seems just fine, can't see anything wrong with it. I acctually beoke one, but that was when an 8:th scale car tried to drive through me in happy hour. Other than that, the car is a huge improvement in terms of set-up, handling and wrenching over the 705.

How thick of a spacer are you guys using on the front shock towers?

I used the spacer that comes on the shck tree, it use to be used instead of the balls that we have on the ends of the shocks, old serpent leftover, but it is a perfect spacer.. I will post a pic in a day or so, when we get home...

Does anybody out there know how to adjust the clutch on this car? I just came from a race thinking I shimmed the centax properly. In the process, I got the biggest headache trying to tune the engine properly and then, doing a DNF because of a clutch that just engaged and never let go.
I hope someone can help. This is my first Serpent and I am completely dumbfounded by this clutch. Thanks guys

3.5 mm is maximum. more than that you will having difficulties to remove front diff(upper) mount bolt.
pls check my top view photo(page 145), im using 3mm spacer and you can see the limited clearance already.

This is the first issues when we all here having a problem to make the clutch engange better.
The mod is to make the 3pc flyweight to sit between the post not through the pin(post).
So you have to trim/cut the opposite side (no hole side) to make it fit in between flywheel pin.
Im sure if Master D had time, he will post the photo "once-again".
Just beg for his generousity..

Combine it with 705 centax spring(SER-909518_Centax II coil spring 1.8) you will notice a huge improvement.

Cool. Never thought of that. I actually had the real spacer left over from the 705. Part number is 801117 and it's a 6 mm spacer. Since most of the time shock towers are not used on the 705 anyways.

Probably I'm wrong to assume but I think JPRacing has other issues with regards to his clutch problems. He mentioned that his clutch was engaged all the time. That calls for other things that need to be done to ensure the clutch spins freely...

I'll try this next week. On my clutch with about 1.2 mm setting on the clutch adjusting nut and a spacing of 0.4 mm on the clutch shoe and clutch bell, the clutch response was instantenous. This is with the stock 6586 Centax spring.

Pay close attention to the clutch building process. You may want to go with a smaller clutch gap of say 0.4 mm instead of 0.7 mm in the manual. Also important is to add some shims on step 8.7 on page 28 of the manual. This is to make sure that the clutch bell will spin freely and not rub against the shoe when the clutch is faced upwards facing you. I think that's the problem with your clutch. The clutch could be in contact constantly because no shim is present between the clutch pre-tension nut and the bearing.

Also, after setting the clutch pre-tension spring to show 1.0 mm of thread as per the manual, put the car on the track. Check to see if the clutch engages well without slipping or without having to engage at a high RPM from standstill or accelerating out from the corners. If you're having problem with clutch engagement, loosen the pre-tension nut one quarter of a turn at a time so that the clutch does not have to rev at high RPM before engaging. You may end up at even 0.5 mm of thread showing after all the adjustment (instead of the recommended 1.0 mm in the manual). If there is anything that you do not understand, just shoot !

.. Ohh. i guess im interpreted in wrongly.
So the clutch engange forever ?
I ever had this problem in one heat, my engine dies everytime I let the throttle go.
I add more clutch tension to cure this problem.

JPR, I assume your driving style is about the same with me, looking for smooth clutch setting that make us able to hold 1/4 throttle without loads up the engine... right??

By adding or screwing down the pre-tension nut only makes the spacing or end float between the bearing and clutch bell bigger thus decreasing the chances of the engine stalling when you brake or let the engine idle.

But still chances of engine stalling is there and the possibility is also great especially after a fast and hard right hand corner or sweeper and letting the throttle go at the same time. So the complete cure is still to add shims as per step 8.7. Also, adding these shims will ensure that your Centax thrust bearing last longer because of the minimal end play.

Hi Guys,

due to bad weather, there was no change to drive today. As I'm still waiting for my 710, I thought I'd use my time usefully and go through all the posts in this forum and pick out the ones which are useful to me - a little FAQ.

If there is anything missing or incorrect let me know and I'll try and update it.

NOTE: the pdf contains comments from many posters, but their names aren't mentioned - it was too much effort to identify who was the original poster sometimes.

Cheers, Mark.

Well done Mark, that is pretty usefull.

While we're on the Centax issues, tried to run my car for the first time today but I've experienced the opposite problem. I have the clutch gap set at 0.7mm although I've only had to shim the thrust bearing with 0.3mm to achieve this, and barely any end float you can see the clutch operating but just appears to be slipping to the point that it won't even spin the wheels over on the starter box, I've tried reducing the clutch gap and increasing/decreasing spring tension but all to no avail. Is there any issues with the standard clutch shoe or am I missing something ?

Mark, excellent work! Guys like you and D will surely ensure all of us 710 nuts do well with our cars!