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Old 03-14-2004, 11:53 PM   #5911
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Im dying for that too Mark..
Tobee is have the aluminium ones, but havent trying yet.
Alu should be ok, too. But don't live upto your name and put some Gold ones in there they'd be pretty heavy
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:54 PM   #5912
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Originally posted by InitialD
Tamiya?
Dont use Tamiya / Yokomo Ti screw when you use Hudy wrench.
Too much play..
Later batch of speedmind is perfect, but there is some newer batch is same as Tamiya screw.
Hope speedmind did not "screw" again on their later batch.
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:57 PM   #5913
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Dont use Tamiya / Yokomo Ti screw when you use Hudy wrench.
Too much play..
Later batch of speedmind is perfect, but there is some newer batch is same as Tamiya screw.
Hope speedmind did not "screw" again on their later batch.
Actually I don't have any problems - I have the Tamiya EVO III Surikarn - it has all the Ti screws and I only stripped hex-headed screw so far, and this was because I put too much thread-lock onto the screw. Apart from that, I've had no problems with the fit with the hudy tools.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:03 AM   #5914
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Alu should be ok, too. But don't live upto your name and put some Gold ones in there they'd be pretty heavy
That will only happen on a really "High-Level RC Racing" ha ha ..

Maybe they did a better fit now. During the new 414WC time, we always stripped the hex-head, especially on those suspension block screw.
Thats why we switch to speedmind screw.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:03 AM   #5915
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
How much off are you getting? If it's a lot, then it could be that your shocks need to be refilled and rebuilt.

The shocks should settle nicely when you compress it a little or a lot to the bottom.
I dont compress the shocks all the way just compress it until the chassis touches the floor. But that was just one time to see how it measured up.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:14 AM   #5916
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Well, you know I need to replace the ones from my Surikarn, since you Jedi mind-tricked them away
Muahahah !

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Ach, yes, 3.5mm I new the size was pretty weird - perhaps I can get some Alu ones - the Alu ones are just as light, I think.
Aluminum may not be stronger and not advisable on parts with a lot of stress. Between titanium and aluminum, aluminum is definitely lighter.

Well, when I was in Thailand, I saw Suruth's car. Titaniums screws everywhere and for certain places, aluminum screws were used. His brother said that it saved about 50 grams or so with those stuff on it !
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:18 AM   #5917
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Dont use Tamiya / Yokomo Ti screw when you use Hudy wrench.
Too much play..
I use the titanium screws from Xenon Racing. They are pretty good actually and reasonable too. About close to USD 4 for a pack which consist 8 screws of the same type.

I initially thought that all screws had some play in them until I changed my 2 mm Hudy ! So all this while it was the Hudy tool that has worned out.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:51 AM   #5918
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Shouldn't that be changing to higher roll center instead of lower roll center in the front to lessen the front grip?



Great ! I will take a peek at it? How was your run last weekend? Good weather?
You're completely right! The front roll center has to be higher to fight traction roll.

I didn't run this weekend (work). I was out during the week. Cold but traction was ok for the circumstances.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:58 AM   #5919
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
Julius
Many setups (including default and your setup in mytsn) for 710 let the car “pulling” (less than 1 mm difference between from and rear tires). Under what conditions would you use a “pushing” tire setup (more that 1mm difference). Maybe it is not recommended at all?

I noticed in your setup that you still use a 6mm ride height (as in default setup) front and rear, but with bigger tires compared with the default setup. That means that you are using less spring preload. It also means that ride height when tires get to 56mm is 6mm - (63-56)/2 = 2.5mm!!. How flat is your track?
If you run a "pushing" tire split (more than 1mm difference) you will very soon end up wit a 1:1 or slightly pulling split. This is because rear tires wear faster anyway but in the beginning it will be even more so because they do all the work. That would make the car change a lot in the first 5 - 10 minutes until the tires are back to a 1 -0.5 mm split.

The track is quite flat, but the car does bottom out a bit in the last 5 minutes. It get's a bit unpredictable
Of course this test is a bit extereme but I just want to see what happens and how the car changes. It's quite good till 58mm (about 40 min) and then things get interesting.

I think one of the very good qualities of the 710 is the small difference between large and small tires.
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:00 AM   #5920
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Where can I get Xenon Racing Titanium screws from "D"?
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:02 AM   #5921
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Julius, would you want to consider running 1 shore harder on the side of the wheel that wears faster? Say that if you have more right turns, then use 1 step shore harder on the left side to get equal left and right tire wear in a long main without swapping tires?
That would depend on the track. On some tracks that kind of tire choice would make the car very different in left and right corners. If you can use it with the car feeling neutral I'd most likely try it.

In long mains you will slowly adapt to the unevenness of the car when tires wear different left and right. Starting out with an unequal car is more difficult.
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:06 AM   #5922
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Hey Julius thanks for the tip. I was hoping I can change tires without changing any setup besides the ride height. As far as downstop goes, with new tires ( larger diameter) do I increase or decrease the downstop?
If you don't change spring settings (adjust ride height) when putting on new tires, don't change downstop. But if you loosen the springs to lower the car when using big tires you'd need to make the downstop higher (to get the total travel of the suspension the same)

Quote:
BTW I cant seem to find your setup on mytsn. How do I search for it? Team Driver huh?
It's under setups
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:37 AM   #5923
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Where can I get Xenon Racing Titanium screws from "D"?
I get it from my LHS. It's Japanese based and I believe Xenon Racing makes the Barracuda electric shaft driven car.
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:44 AM   #5924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
That would depend on the track. On some tracks that kind of tire choice would make the car very different in left and right corners. If you can use it with the car feeling neutral I'd most likely try it.
Cool because I noticed that you guys used it during last year's EC in Portugal.

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
In long mains you will slowly adapt to the unevenness of the car when tires wear different left and right. Starting out with an unequal car is more difficult.
I agree. So the trick would be to keep the tire wear as close as possible to enable you to drive consistantly is the key I guess...
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:47 AM   #5925
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
If you don't change spring settings (adjust ride height) when putting on new tires, don't change downstop. But if you loosen the springs to lower the car when using big tires you'd need to make the downstop higher (to get the total travel of the suspension the same)


Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
It's under setups
I think most people don't know your surname as Kolff.
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