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Old 01-06-2004, 10:01 PM   #2716
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Originally posted by crashed_1
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.
Crash, you need to trim the flyweights because if you put the 3 in between the pins (without slotting them into it like in the manual), you have restricted space to sit the 3 shoes nicely in as the flyweights are a little long.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:04 PM   #2717
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Originally posted by clmbia45
:I PUT THE CAR ON THE CONCRETE, PRESSED FIRMLY, AND BURNED RUBBER WITH ALL 4 WHEELS! NO SLIP!
Cool. Good to know it worked for you Jack !

Sorry if I resisted to give that info as I was in the midst of discussing this issue with Julius via PM. He still thinks that the way the manual suggest to install the flyweights is correct. I thought since you already knew about it from Robert of Ashford, might as well tell ya !

Anyway, what clutch settings did you end up with?
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:09 PM   #2718
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Originally posted by crashed_1
OUCH...DRS, Upperlink, Shock Shaft...etc. That must've hurt man. Did your shcktowers break?...
No...should it have? broken?? I honestly cant believe this happened. I usually never break parts, but I was moving out pretty good and it was so fast that by the time I blinked it was all over. I am thankful it didnt happen in a race because I would have crushed someones car. You think they would know to put alittle plastic in the ends of those wheelnuts.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:12 PM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Crash, you need to trim the flyweights because if you put the 3 in between the pins (without slotting them into it like in the manual), you have restricted space to sit the 3 shoes nicely in as the flyweights are a little long.
And then....? After shortening them, do I still put them into the slots or outta?....

When r u leaving for Thailand?...can you get MS to sign on a new Mazda6 lexan please?.....
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:13 PM   #2720
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Originally posted by kreidel
Needless to say it went into a 180 slide and knifed into the wall a-arms first.
Shit happens ! I gather that if your wheel would not have come out and if you clipped the curb or went head on to the wall, the front and lower bumper would be severed and perhaps the front lower / upper arms would break. I think the steering knuckles would not break and it will pop off from the pivot balls like it happened twice on my 705 with the same steering blocks and pivot balls.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:17 PM   #2721
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Originally posted by kreidel
No...should it have? broken??
I broke mine on the first run. Of course due to my own fault. Tried to do acrobatics while not having a body on ! The car landed on the shock tower and it snapped.

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
You think they would know to put alittle plastic in the ends of those wheelnuts.
Well, Serpent flanged lock nuts have always been like that. You need to tighten them down real hard. You could use the locktite method or the teflon tape like what plumbers do on the pipes on those nuts.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:18 PM   #2722
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
And then....? After shortening them, do I still put them into the slots or outta?....
Put them out of the pins. The flyweights will be in sitting in between the pins.

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Originally posted by crashed_1
When r u leaving for Thailand?...can you get MS to sign on a new Mazda6 lexan please?.....
Tomorrow !
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:29 PM   #2723
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Originally posted by NitroHead
I for one do not have my panties in a bunch...
Hahaha! Yeah, and what's the difference between panties in 60's and panties these days ?
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:34 PM   #2724
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Hahaha! Yeah, and what's the difference between panties in 60's and panties these days ?
I think panties have a different meaning in US and in UK...
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:45 PM   #2725
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, Serpent flanged lock nuts have always been like that. You need to tighten them down real hard. You could use the locktite method or the teflon tape like what plumbers do on the pipes on those nuts.
Be careful there...to date I've snapped 2 axles just by overtightening 'em...just firm enuff would do.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:48 PM   #2726
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Originally posted by crashed_1
Be careful there...to date I've snapped 2 axles just by overtightening 'em...just firm enuff would do.
You are right. But me thinks you're just overzealous ! (j/k)

The Hudy spring steel ones will not.
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Old 01-06-2004, 11:04 PM   #2727
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.



I'm not set up to post pics yet, but I'll describe it. Each flyweight occupies about 1/3 of a circle. Looking at it from the top (flat surface), there's a hole in one end and an angled end on the other. I cut about 1mm off the angled end, parallel to the angle and at right angle to the surface. i.e. a 1mm slice. Actually, the 1st time I did it, I cut slices as thin as I could, until it fit between the posts, all the way down on the surface of the flywheel. When it's not down all the way, you can feel it rock when you push on the ends. It's a little deceptive, because it has to move in as it slides down. But you have to get it short enough to sit flat on the flywheel between the posts, or the 802505 support washer will not rest flat on them. Once you get the 1st one done, use it as a pattern for the other 2. I cut it with a straight edge hobby knife; it cuts easily.
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Old 01-06-2004, 11:14 PM   #2728
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Good to know it worked for you Jack !

Sorry if I resisted to give that info as I was in the midst of discussing this issue with Julius via PM. He still thinks that the way the manual suggest to install the flyweights is correct. I thought since you already knew about it from Robert of Ashford, might as well tell ya !

Anyway, what clutch settings did you end up with?
I used the 0.4 mm clutch gap you suggested, but opted for 0.9 mm spring nut compression, instead of the book 1 mm value. End play is about 0.1-0.2 mm. Enough that the bell spins freely with no drag.

Last edited by clmbia45; 01-06-2004 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 01-06-2004, 11:21 PM   #2729
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I used the 0.4 mm clutch gap you suggested, but opted for 0.9 mm spring nut compression, instead of the book 1 mm value. End play is about 1-2 mm. Enough that the bell spins freely with no drag.
I have mine set at 1 mm as in the manual. The acceleration is fantastic !

Since the clutchbell already can spin freely, I would still add some more shims as per step 8.7 to take out most of the end play. Mine virtually does not have any but a very slight end play. This will give a longer thrust bearing life.
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Old 01-06-2004, 11:23 PM   #2730
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'm not set up to post pics yet, but I'll describe it. Each flyweight occupies about 1/3 of a circle. Looking at it from the top (flat surface), there's a hole in one end and an angled end on the other. I cut about 1mm off the angled end, parallel to the angle and at right angle to the surface. i.e. a 1mm slice. Actually, the 1st time I did it, I cut slices as thin as I could, until it fit between the posts, all the way down on the surface of the flywheel. When it's not down all the way, you can feel it rock when you push on the ends. It's a little deceptive, because it has to move in as it slides down. But you have to get it short enough to sit flat on the flywheel between the posts, or the 802505 support washer will not rest flat on them. Once you get the 1st one done, use it as a pattern for the other 2. I cut it with a straight edge hobby knife; it cuts easily.
You have a gift of giving clear and good explanations !
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