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Old 12-22-2003, 02:01 AM   #1966
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
One more thing, the car weight is 1670 with personal transponder.
Is this without fuel, with bodyshell and tires?
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:03 AM   #1967
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Back View
Thanks for the pics Goldfinger !

I noticed from the rear that you used the shorter upper arm and the highest roll center. How is it different from the stock longer upper arm and roll center setting?

What shore GQ tires did you use?
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:04 AM   #1968
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Im showing what the chassis is made for...
Ouch !!
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:27 AM   #1969
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the pics Goldfinger !

I noticed from the rear that you used the shorter upper arm and the highest roll center. How is it different from the stock longer upper arm and roll center setting?

What shore GQ tires did you use?
Im no expert to explain this, but this setup is better when you accelerated hard from the apex of hairpin. Maybe because the outside rear wheel camber do keep his neg camber. Try this on your hudy block and see what I mean.

As for the GQ shores, I use 40 FR and RR all the way from the start of heat (10.00) till A Final (15.30). This is why I said this car is well balanced and dont forget to check the tire wear (in my picture). I was miscalculated the ride height. After final the ride height is still more than 4.5 mm, damn!!

1670 gr is race ready condition without fuel.
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:34 AM   #1970
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think that is not possible with the suggested link length of 44.5 mm. What length are you using?
I made a mistake.....

The arm needs to be at 90 degrees to the servo not the link. That is the optimum setting to get left/right as close as possible. I'll go back and edit my previous posts.

You may need a shorter link than what is in the manual. If nescessary cut the ball ends and the link a little. Or you could see if you have a 705 rear sway bar link around. They were made with a m3 threaded rod that may provide a way to a short steering link.

Last edited by Julius; 12-22-2003 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 12-22-2003, 04:28 AM   #1971
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Scrubbed DRS arm

what exactly happened with the arm..(its a little hard to tell)..did it break,bend?...

how hard was that hit?......That arm was one of my concerns...Esp. when used on USA med tracks with boards...
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Old 12-22-2003, 04:54 AM   #1972
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whaowhoahw!!! first time playing my 705 without breaking anything..... ran about 6 tanks!! YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:08 AM   #1973
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
what exactly happened with the arm..(its a little hard to tell)..did it break,bend?...

how hard was that hit?......That arm was one of my concerns...Esp. when used on USA med tracks with boards...
You should not worry about the arm, it just scrubbed a bit nothing else happen.
Truly, my point is the 2nd spur gear...

In my opinion, dont use stock aluminium pillow ball for rear joint. The old steel one will holds your rear hub better coz it has longer thread.

I think our concrete wall that surrounding track (only half meter away from asphalt) is more solid than your boards ...
Can you believe if it still break apart ?? We have to repair the 4" tall wall in some corner twice this year.
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:14 AM   #1974
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie

A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Release your rear bar too....
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:50 AM   #1975
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more rear toe in
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:57 AM   #1976
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Balance out the ride height and maybe increase number of holes in the rear shocks (?).
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:06 AM   #1977
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or get softer oil.. ?intead of more holes
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:41 AM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
whaowhoahw!!! first time playing my 705 without breaking anything..... ran about 6 tanks!! YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree with goldfinger. Release the rear bar as well. If that makes the rear grip too much, use less rear toe-in.
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:44 AM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
You should not worry about the arm, it just scrubbed a bit nothing else happen.
Truly, my point is the 2nd spur gear...

In my opinion, dont use stock aluminium pillow ball for rear joint. The old steel one will holds your rear hub better coz it has longer thread.
Why is your point the 2nd spur gear? Do you mean the 1st speed gear, because it touched the drs arm?

Why use the steel balls? Did you rip out a thread?
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Old 12-22-2003, 09:25 AM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
I agree with goldfinger. Release the rear bar as well. If that makes the rear grip too much, use less rear toe-in.
Thanks for all the help everyone!! I'll take out the rear sway bar tomorrow...
That was a HUGE improvement I made on my driving skills yesterday, if I contine improving with this pace, maybe I'll get the 710 in 3 months
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