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Old 12-31-2003, 11:54 AM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
here it is ready for battle..
Andrew, nice ! You switched to a wider rear belt?
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Old 12-31-2003, 12:15 PM   #2417
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Default Re: Re: clutch bell & pinion gears

Quote:
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
With the Centax II, I've always used an allen key or thin screw driver through the bell housing holes, this has always been sufficient.
The holes in the bell housing don't allow this without damaging the bell, it seems to me.
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Old 12-31-2003, 12:58 PM   #2418
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Default Re: Re: Re: clutch bell & pinion gears

Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
The holes in the bell housing don't allow this without damaging the bell, it seems to me.
Can't say that I've had any problems, but not sure if the Centax III is a different design.
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Old 12-31-2003, 01:05 PM   #2419
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Default Re: Re: Re: clutch bell & pinion gears

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Originally posted by clmbia45
The holes in the bell housing don't allow this without damaging the bell, it seems to me.
With the stock Centax II clutchbell housing (as well as Centax I), the holes are 180 degrees apart and directly opposite each other.

The optional lightened Centax II clutchbell is like the Centax III clutchbell and they have 3 of these holes at 120 degrees apart.

Still if you look at the Centax II clutchbell housing tool, it only makes use of a single hole on the optional lightened Centax II clutchbell. A pin will go through only one hole and it already holds the clutchbell firmly.

I'm still trying to find a 3 mm drill bit hard enough that would drill my Hudy spring steel Centax II clutchbell housing tool (909593) to align with the Centax III clutchbell holes. Once this hole is drilled, they will fit fine in the Centax III clutchbell to hold it.
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Old 12-31-2003, 02:19 PM   #2420
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcjayy
Yo guys

when you place the clutch shoe in the second gear housing is it supposed to stick a little or turn freely within the housing, because I just placed the shoes in the 2nd gear housing and turned it a little and it not turning freely its sticking on something
I also found this to be the case. If you feel the inside of the gear housing it's not smooth. Just deburr where the holes for adjusting the 2speed are located.
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Old 12-31-2003, 02:53 PM   #2421
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InitialD
How do you find the Shark pipe on a 12 size engine?
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Old 12-31-2003, 03:47 PM   #2422
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Talking Happy New Year!!

Hello!! Serpent Racers!!

My best wishes for every body here in this Snake Pit,, Happy New Year , and lets get ready to kick some A$$e$$ , this next Year!!

Ciao!!
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Old 12-31-2003, 03:57 PM   #2423
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Default Starter Box

Not sure if this has been posted yet or not, however, I found that I had a problem starting the car with the standard serpent box due to the width of the rubber pulley and the width of the chassis not allowing proper engagement.

Fix !!! kill two birds with one stone !!!!

The key number is .080 " take .080" off of the motor mounts and you not only lower your cg of the engine but it allows the starter box to contact the surface of the flywheel much more effeciently !!! Additionally it still allows for clearance between the chassis and the engine.

I am using a Novarossi S3 so the measurement may be slightly different depending on which engine you are using, However, it's an old trick to lower your engine and there is plenty of room.

I also use the serpent # 6361 rear belt, (wider) I have never had to replace one, and would assume I never will.
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:54 PM   #2424
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I concur on the rear belt, wish I could still get a 5mm front belt.. the 705/pro/spec were bullit proof once switching to the 5mm front and wide rear belts.. so i just started off with the wide belt, but you do lose some top speed, I have never ever niticed it but I know it to be true.just physicis.. also sometimes at large races the better drivers will go to softer more flexible thinner belts, they feel almost gummy in your hand and have a much higher chance of failure but because they flex easier they have less resistance in motion and may give you a slight edge at risk of course.. just like a over done motor can ruin your day by being tempermental on the track...
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Old 12-31-2003, 05:41 PM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I don't follow you... There is no C clip preventing you from moving the 22T to the left side away from the left bulkhead. In any case, I have attached a pic below showing the position of the 22T on the layshaft and the 24T brake pulley clearing the engine crankcase mounting. You will find that there is virtually no side play. It fits snugly but yet does not bind the 2 speed hub.
D

if i loosen the grub screw on the brake, i can move the whole shaft that the 2sp gear is on, is this what you mean when you say move the 2sp to the left?
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Old 12-31-2003, 08:23 PM   #2426
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcjayy
D

if i loosen the grub screw on the brake, i can move the whole shaft that the 2sp gear is on, is this what you mean when you say move the 2sp to the left?
You can move two pulleys. One is the 22T layshaft side pulley and the other is the 24T brake pulley in the middle of the 2 speed main layshaft.

You can move the 22T layshaft side pulley AWAY from the U6 (6x13x5) bearing in the left bulkhead slightly to avoid binding and rubbing so that the 2 speed spur hub carrier can rotate smoothly and freely with the P13 (3x14 mm) pin.

Earlier somebody posted that you may rub the 24T brake pulley in the middle with the engine crankscase mount. You can slide this 24T brake pulley towards the right bulkhead where the 2 speed gearbox is. However, make sure that the brake pins do not rub on the right rear bulkhead.
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Old 12-31-2003, 08:28 PM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pacman25
How do you find the Shark pipe on a 12 size engine?
Very nice. However, like Sow&Steady mentioned, some people do not like it on the Nova engines. My personal opinion is you need to tune the engine correctly with this pipe. The engine will tend to rev very high and this makes the engine overheat easy. I think it needs more turns out on the HSN. I ended up with 5 turns out.

So when you tune the engine from rich to ideal lean settings with the Shark pipe, you need to turn out like 6 turns out on the HSN and about 3 or 4 turns out on the LSN to begin to start tuning properly. My 2 cents.
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Old 12-31-2003, 08:35 PM   #2428
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Default Re: Starter Box

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Not sure if this has been posted yet or not, however, I found that I had a problem starting the car with the standard serpent box due to the width of the rubber pulley and the width of the chassis not allowing proper engagement.
JABRONI, yes I have that problem ! I actually took an hour to get my engine started at a track one day. Perhaps I did not mention this earlier because my piston sleeve was still tight and that it was stuck all the time and this made it difficult to start to begin with. Secondly, the rubber wheel on my Serpent starter has already worned out after close to 2 years ! Thirdly, I was using a buddy's Serpent starter box. Although it was difficult to start but still managable. So, I actually did not complain.

Still, you are right about the starter box though. Lowering the engine mounts is nice but I think you need precission machining for that...
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Old 12-31-2003, 11:48 PM   #2429
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Ahhh....

Just back from a sunny vacation in the Florida keys, going yo start building thr 710 tomorrow, just wanted to wish everyone here a Happy new 2004 !!!! 2004... the year of the snake...
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:56 AM   #2430
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Default Motor Mounts

It is true D, I had a machinist freind take em down for me !!!

BY the way, any info on a release date for the Front Defferential ?

I've been following this thread, however, I do not recall seeing anything about a release date.

I'm pretty sure I saw something on Mytsn about front CVD's in March or something tho ???
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