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Old 01-20-2004, 03:39 AM   #3166
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, I tried the aluminum shock bodies last weekend. Although it was nice to know that you got bomb proof shocks, the extra weight is pretty noticeable from the stock plastic ones.

Hahahaha...here we go again.
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Old 01-20-2004, 03:44 AM   #3167
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
LOL you caught me! I do like shaft cars and have a FW-05R (a great car, by the way). I travel between US and Asia on regular basis for work and have been think about keeping a car in Taiwan so I can run it when in Asia. I thought about getting another FW-05R but am thinking about trying something different. The 710 looks good and I am curious about how it compares to the FW-05R. I am also considering a G4 but leaning toward the 710 at the moment.
Join the club. I'm doing the exact same thing, only mines a NTC3 and a 710. I find them both quite different but fast nonetheless. You'll appreciate the 710s ease of maintainance. Not as easy as a NTC3 but close. But there is one thing they have in common...THEY ARE BOTH LIGHT....
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:45 AM   #3168
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Hahahaha...here we go again.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:46 AM   #3169
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
But there is one thing they have in common...THEY ARE BOTH LIGHT....
Too light !
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:27 AM   #3170
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
LOL you caught me! I do like shaft cars and have a FW-05R (a great car, by the way). I travel between US and Asia on regular basis for work and have been think about keeping a car in Taiwan so I can run it when in Asia. I thought about getting another FW-05R but am thinking about trying something different. The 710 looks good and I am curious about how it compares to the FW-05R. I am also considering a G4 but leaning toward the 710 at the moment.
I wouldn't go with the G4 if I were you, at least with the 710, it is as smooth rolling as a shaft driven car
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:31 AM   #3171
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Join the club. I'm doing the exact same thing, only mines a NTC3 and a 710. I find them both quite different but fast nonetheless. You'll appreciate the 710s ease of maintainance. Not as easy as a NTC3 but close. But there is one thing they have in common...THEY ARE BOTH LIGHT....
... except that you'd have to drive a TC3 as if you ARE in the car ...

... perhaps then, you'd end up having dto do more maintainance on the TC3, which is a pain for "rough" drivers like most of us ...
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:32 AM   #3172
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Too light !
That's ONE good reason for you to use the Al shock bodies !
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Old 01-20-2004, 12:51 PM   #3173
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I got a question regarding shocks. Building shocks is got to be my worst nightmare. Everytime I build them I bump into problems! When you fill the shock oil and put on the cap to tighten it, is the oil suppose to leak out so that you know you filled it enough? Before you put on the springs, when you push the shaft into the shock is the shaft suppose to push out by itself? Mine always gets stuck in there! I have to build it like 5 times to make it bounce back out. I know you have to let the air and stuff but is the shaft suppose to come back out once it is compressed without the springs?
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Old 01-20-2004, 12:59 PM   #3174
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I got a question regarding shocks. Building shocks is got to be my worst nightmare. Everytime I build them I bump into problems! When you fill the shock oil and put on the cap to tighten it, is the oil suppose to leak out so that you know you filled it enough? Before you put on the springs, when you push the shaft into the shock is the shaft suppose to push out by itself? Mine always gets stuck in there! I have to build it like 5 times to make it bounce back out. I know you have to let the air and stuff but is the shaft suppose to come back out once it is compressed without the springs?
No...no oil suppose to be spilled out, building shocks is a skill, and building SERPENT shocks required a 5 years professional college degree and a 2 year master degree (LOL)....take your time, building a good shocks are the most important step (at least for me that is)and you can tell the performance of the car when you racing your car.

Also...after you seal the cap and the shock chamber, before putting the springs on, push the shaft in, and the shaft MUST push back out SLOWLY....if your shaft does not push back at all, that means you don't have enough oil inside, or your shaft push out immediately or cannot be push in, you are too tight inside with too much oil or too much AIR.

Yes, it is pain in the butt.......took me good 18 years to learn how to build a good shocks, and still, I think I haven't build one PERFECT shocks yet, but just good enough for me to race.
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:00 PM   #3175
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Default Re: Re: can you post pics of your serpent 710 or email them to me at [email protected]

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Danny, here is mine (or at least when it was new).



































As for comparisons, with the RR EVO, I think both cars are comparable. You can't go wrong with either cars. Just go with the car that you can get support trackside in terms of parts and technical support.
Hey thats a nice pipe you got there My friend has the same pipe, is it made by Shark? BTW where did you mount your on/off switch for the battery?
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:06 PM   #3176
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And after you build your shocks you should throw them on a Losi shock tool to see how closely matched they are.
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:35 PM   #3177
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Default Re: Re: Re: can you post pics of your serpent 710 or email them to me at [email protected]

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Hey thats a nice pipe you got there My friend has the same pipe, is it made by Shark? BTW where did you mount your on/off switch for the battery?
Hmm, must be new to Serpent......Serpent dropped the ON/OFF switch thing since Impulse PRO 3 years ago...all you can do is plug and unplug the recevier pack connector, and you should mount the male/female plug on the side of the car and atleast double side taped the female plug next to the recevier.

Well, you can still add the ON/OFF plug if you preferred that way, again, you can double side taped the switch any place that you want, but there are just no dedicated place for ON/OFF switch on any Serpent car anymore.....
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Old 01-20-2004, 02:20 PM   #3178
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This is where i put mine...
So i can easy switch on/off when body is mounted..
Offcourse on is UP so it can't switch OFF during racing.
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Old 01-20-2004, 03:05 PM   #3179
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Originally posted by Thaasman
This is where i put mine...
So i can easy switch on/off when body is mounted..
Offcourse on is UP so it can't switch OFF during racing.

That is crazy....at the bottom of the chassis!?!?!?



Here is a safe place for an ON/OFF switch......above the chassis.
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Old 01-20-2004, 03:14 PM   #3180
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I got a question regarding shocks. Building shocks is got to be my worst nightmare. Everytime I build them I bump into problems! When you fill the shock oil and put on the cap to tighten it, is the oil suppose to leak out so that you know you filled it enough? Before you put on the springs, when you push the shaft into the shock is the shaft suppose to push out by itself? Mine always gets stuck in there! I have to build it like 5 times to make it bounce back out. I know you have to let the air and stuff but is the shaft suppose to come back out once it is compressed without the springs?
This seemed to work for me:

1) Make sure that the plastic pistons are free of any extra plastic left from manufacturing. The edges should be smooth.
2) Fill the shocks with oil and cycle the piston a few times to get the air out.
3) Let the shocks sit for a few minutes to allow any more air bubbles to come to the surface. Cycle again.
4) Push the piston almost all the way up into the shock body.
5) Press the rubber seal into position. This should spill excess oil out of the shock body.
6) Press plastic cap onto the rubber seal making sure to keep the seal tight.
7) Place aluminum ring over the plastic cap, all while holding the plastic cap tight against the rubber seal.
8) While still applying pressure to the plastic cap and seal to keep the seal tight, slowly tighten down the aluminium retainer ring.
9) Once the aluminium ring tightens down onto the plastic cap, make sure the plastic notch is lined up with the notch in the aluminium ring.
10) Tighten down and clean of excess oil.

The key is to keep the rubber seal tight to the shock body, otherwise air gets in the oil.

Last edited by chachi; 01-20-2004 at 03:52 PM.
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