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Old 01-20-2004, 04:07 PM   #3181
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I've finally ran my S710 for the first time today. I was hoping I can do it on our newly improved track (longer straights, chicanes, etc.)but to my amazement, it was closed. I had to run off to the other track which was way smaller and tight. I do have some questions after getting 4 tanks to it :

1. How can I get more snap exiting corners ? I know that some have already recommended varying the space between the bell and the shoes, and some have the inner black pads cut so it's not hitting the pin. Anything else that might give some more oomph?

2. What tools are you using to adjust the spring in the clutch assembly without taking everything off ? I see 2 small openings that I think is designed just for this.

Since all tracks are not the same, I'll more likely experiment with my setup once I get more track time. This means no racing this weekend.

Thanks in advance for your answers.
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Old 01-20-2004, 04:55 PM   #3182
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
1. How can I get more snap exiting corners ? I know that some have already recommended varying the space between the bell and the shoes, and some have the inner black pads cut so it's not hitting the pin. Anything else that might give some more oomph?
- Cut the flyweights, see the instruction coming from InitialD or from jack.
- Use harder clutch spring, from centaxII will be ok.

Combines both mods than it will transmit your bottom torque instantly. Be carefull, like Art Carbonell says a cannon ball (acceleration) car is difficult to drive, so its a matter of driving style.

Quote:
Originally posted by nad138

2. What tools are you using to adjust the spring in the clutch assembly without taking everything off ? I see 2 small openings that I think is designed just for this.
I use 3mm allen wrench, slide it between flywheel and starter box slot (so you can hold the flywheel). Then you can insert 1.5 or 2mm allen wrench to adjust clutch spring tightness through that hole.

[/B][/QUOTE]
Since all tracks are not the same, I'll more likely experiment with my setup once I get more track time. This means no racing this weekend.

Thanks in advance for your answers. [/B][/QUOTE]

I think you will get your best setup towards the end of the race.
I suggest you to race much as you can.
Happy racing !
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:48 PM   #3183
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Default Re: Re: Re: can you post pics of your serpent 710 or email them to me at [email protected]

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Hey thats a nice pipe you got there My friend has the same pipe, is it made by Shark? BTW where did you mount your on/off switch for the battery?
Yes, it's the inline Shark pipe.

No on off switch. Just a servo extender by KO. I find that more reliable than a switch. Besides, race cars don't have a switch !
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:49 PM   #3184
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
And after you build your shocks you should throw them on a Losi shock tool to see how closely matched they are.
Right on brother ! I got one for myself after you mentioned it.
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:53 PM   #3185
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Quote:
Originally posted by Thaasman
This is where i put mine...
So i can easy switch on/off when body is mounted..
Offcourse on is UP so it can't switch OFF during racing.
Whoaaaa... Pretty scary to be below the chassis. Punisher's on off switch is more safe I think...
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:02 PM   #3186
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Cut the flyweights, see the instruction coming from InitialD or from jack.
- Use harder clutch spring, from centaxII will be ok.

Can you show me the pic of the shoes cutting?
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:15 PM   #3187
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
1. How can I get more snap exiting corners ? I know that some have already recommended varying the space between the bell and the shoes, and some have the inner black pads cut so it's not hitting the pin. Anything else that might give some more oomph?
Yes, like Goldfinger mention, that's about it.

Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
2. What tools are you using to adjust the spring in the clutch assembly without taking everything off ? I see 2 small openings that I think is designed just for this.
I use a 1.5 mm allen to lock the spring nut. Turn the flywheel clokwise to LOOSEN the clutch nut for earlier clutch engagement and anticlockwise to TIGHTEN the clutch nut spring for later clutch engagement.
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:21 PM   #3188
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
Can you show me the pic of the shoes cutting?


Top flyweight is modded. Bottom is original and shows approximately where and how much you need to cut.



After the 3 flyweights are shortened, install it like this on the flywheel. They sit in nicely.

Pit, I think it's different from the one you did on your 705. I think you drilled an extra hole in the middle of the flyweights and mount it on the flywheel pins if I'm not mistaken...
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:22 PM   #3189
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Awhile back someone posted a price list of the 710 parts.
Can you post that again...thanks!
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:22 PM   #3190
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Quote:
Originally posted by chachi
5) Press the rubber seal into position. This should spill excess oil out of the shock body.
6) Press plastic cap onto the rubber seal making sure to keep the seal tight.
7) Place aluminum ring over the plastic cap, all while holding the plastic cap tight against the rubber seal.
This is how I do it differently. For what it's worth, it works for me. The shocks rebound nicely and somewhat equally.

Instead of pressing the rubber bladders onto the shock body, I press it nicely and fit it in the plastic cap together with the aluminum ring over the plastic cap before screwing it onto the shock body. While the shock body is filled with shock oil to the brim, I quickly and carefully mount the plastic cap (together with the aluminum ring and rubber bladder) and screw it down onto the shock body. Some excess shock oil will spil out. This is normal.

The shock may be hard after assembly but what I do is slowly compress it till excess oil bleeds out from the bottom of the shocks. Then I adjust rebound on both left and right shocks (first by eyeballing it and then on the Losi shock tool) by releasing / unscrewing the top plastic cap and pressing the shock shaft in. After that is done, tighten down the caps on both shocks and put springs on it.

Mine last very long. I find no air leaks into my shocks and the shock oil remains clean after I take it out to refill them after 3 or 4 weekends of running.

Oh, I use the optional foam inserts 909447. They help a lot to maintain consistant rebound. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:23 PM   #3191
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Awhile back someone posted a price list of the 710 parts.
Can you post that again...thanks!
A price list? You mean the one from Ashford Hobbies?
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:37 PM   #3192
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I dont think it was from Ashford Hobby master D.


Anyway, have a question for you.
How is the durability of the new arms and plastic of the 710?
Also what would you recommend of spare parts to get for this car?
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:57 PM   #3193
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
I dont think it was from Ashford Hobby master D.

710 ListPrice

I believe someone ever posted this link before.

in addition, those price is not update version.
Check your LHS, here.. after 3x revision (due to "petroling"EURO)
the kits is around the same from before, but the main spares(assembly) such as shock set, ball diff set is drop down fantastically.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:06 PM   #3194
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I beleave that's it!!


Thanks GoldFinger
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Old 01-20-2004, 08:53 PM   #3195
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Top flyweight is modded. Bottom is original and shows approximately where and how much you need to cut

After the 3 flyweights are shortened, install it like this on the flywheel. They sit in nicely.

Pit, I think it's different from the one you did on your 705. I think you drilled an extra hole in the middle of the flyweights and mount it on the flywheel pins if I'm not mistaken... [/B]
Yes, my mod did like you said...you have a good memory. Now with your mod ....do the flywts. stay in place w/ no problems?
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