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Old 01-20-2004, 11:29 PM   #3196
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YES, AND i'VE GOT 3 DAYS RUNNING WITH NO PROBLEMS!
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:48 PM   #3197
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Thumbs up Seven Ten is totally Perfect For Me!!

There u go i said it loud and clear!!!

Master D(JC), at last i managed to slot in onto the A-Main!! All becoz of Serpent Seven Ten & my trusted RS5 STS. i only changed the ride height to 7mm(F/R) and tires 40F/37R. the track was very dusty. The rear diff is near to full lock(i love it this way). I can punch thru the corner and most of my overtaking was done in the corner when other racers slow down

THANKS SERPENT & THANKS FELLOW SERPENTINES OUT HERE FOR ALL THOSE HELPS...of coz most of it to you InitialD.

I will do my very best to be in this "A-MAIN" group. At least before someone else follow suit in buying the 710 at LHS.
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:36 AM   #3198
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WINDSCREEN HOLES

Can anyone show me the legal way to cut holes for the serpent 710? Im confused on the windscreen holes thing. the tank is in the center but advisable to make hole align straight with the engine heatsink at the back.

im gonna participate in a strict sort of ifmar body rules race so im totally blank on this thing. Could any1 show me a picture? Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2004, 05:12 AM   #3199
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Provided the hole in the front screen is 50mm in diameter maximum you are fine. Where you place it is important as you ideally want it in line with the engine head but you also want to have clear and easy access to the fuel tank for simpler refueling in those mains finals.

What I normally do is cut the whole with the center right on the point 25mm inwards towards the tank from the center line of the engine head. This gives clear air to the head still and allows you clearer access to the tank.

You dont want to cut the hole on beyond the roof line as this really effects the air flow and aerodynamics. What I do is cut the hole so that the upper most part of the cut out is level with the top of the engine head or just slightly above it without going any closer to the roofline than 10mm.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-21-2004, 05:19 AM   #3200
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Top flyweight is modded. Bottom is original and shows approximately where and how much you need to cut.



After the 3 flyweights are shortened, install it like this on the flywheel. They sit in nicely.

Pit, I think it's different from the one you did on your 705. I think you drilled an extra hole in the middle of the flyweights and mount it on the flywheel pins if I'm not mistaken...
Very ingenious Initial D. Using the complete weight to will give a smoother pick up on the clutch. The only reason I havent tried this with the old Centax is I was worried that the shoes would be able to stay out and not allow the clutch to disengage. But after studying it now I see that wont happen. I would drill another hole in the weights though to counterbalance the weight distribution through the shoe or find the material and cut a complete new set with no holes.

PITRACER - The shoes will stay in place. They wont be moving out far enough to get out of place and this set up will also ensure a smoother engagement of the clutch and less wear on the shoes.
Definately going to play with this now.
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:36 AM   #3201
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Whoaaaa... Pretty scary to be below the chassis. Punisher's on off switch is more safe I think...
I totally have to disagrea with you on this..
First it's not below the chassis
and second, there is now way the switch can be
set OFF during racing.
In the other hand Punisher's switch can have that problem!
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:39 AM   #3202
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take the switch off, one servo extension is all you need and it is fail safe.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:04 AM   #3203
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O.K. I will install the wts. as you have instructed. They are not to be touching the posts ...correct?
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:37 AM   #3204
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Default Re: Seven Ten is totally Perfect For Me!!

Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
.... at last i managed to slot in onto the A-Main!! All becoz of Serpent Seven Ten & my trusted RS5 STS.
Congratulations JFC!
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:40 AM   #3205
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Did anyone of you take your brand new engine apart and clean it before you break it in?
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:43 AM   #3206
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Provided the hole in the front screen is 50mm in diameter maximum you are fine. Where you place it is important as you ideally want it in line with the engine head but you also want to have clear and easy access to the fuel tank for simpler refueling in those mains finals.

What I normally do is cut the whole with the center right on the point 25mm inwards towards the tank from the center line of the engine head. This gives clear air to the head still and allows you clearer access to the tank.

You dont want to cut the hole on beyond the roof line as this really effects the air flow and aerodynamics. What I do is cut the hole so that the upper most part of the cut out is level with the top of the engine head or just slightly above it without going any closer to the roofline than 10mm.

Hope this helps.
This is good but it is ALSO legal (at least by IFMAR rules) to cut the front windows out as well as the 50mm hole on the front windscreen. In combination you get enough cooling/ventilation and stay legal.

JFC, you preparing your body for the Asean Cup?
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:43 AM   #3207
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For every engine cyba. Always check for left over burrs etc before starting a new engine. Remove everything from the engine (including bearings) and thoroughly flush everything.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:50 AM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
take the switch off, one servo extension is all you need and it is fail safe.
I would vote with ammdrew if you plan to race seriously and you make it to the long finals.

A lot can go on in a 20-30 min main let alone a 45 min. A-Main. To minimise risks the above method mentioned by D and ammdrew is not only safe but also

1- give the most direct electrical connection,

2- minimise wiring resistance and

3- is the lightest way.

During a long main, I even zip-tie the extension connectors!
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:55 AM   #3209
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I agree. I once lost the track record due to a switch turning itself off in a 1/8th scale car. Was on lap 18 and coming up to the line to start a 19th (record setting) with about 5secs to go. Car caught the final corner curb too hard, threw the switch and the car took off away from the line.

Talk about a bummer. The record had stood for 10yrs before that day and still stands (13yrs later). The track is no longer in use.
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:05 AM   #3210
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a record that stood 10 years wow. around california the
records won't hold up for more than a few months let alone
10 years especially now that cars are 10times better than
cars released 3-4years ago.
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