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Old 08-02-2005, 07:42 AM   #21931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I accidentally mounted my body about 1/8" - 3/16" too far forward compared to the wheel openings in the body. How bad did I screw this up?

Thanks,
jag
Some bodys work better with the body mounted more forwards - I like the Mazda mounted pretty well forward, at least 4mm, which is between 1/8th and 3/16ths. You should be fine
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:05 AM   #21932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
Some bodys work better with the body mounted more forwards - I like the Mazda mounted pretty well forward, at least 4mm, which is between 1/8th and 3/16ths. You should be fine
That's good news. I would hate to have to do another one just because I screwed it up. Bodies are a pain in the a$$.

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Old 08-02-2005, 04:02 PM   #21933
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Default CVD's Pins?

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Originally Posted by Julius
Be carefull when replacing the pins in the new cvd's. They're a smaller dia and need to be replaced with pins designed for the cvd's I saw them today in the Serpent warehouse (the number is one higher than the m3X3 screws)
If you get the chance could you supply us with the part number of the pins. I have not found the part number for the m3x3 screws.




Thanks in advance
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Old 08-03-2005, 04:07 AM   #21934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
I use the m4 hole of an old alu motor mount and place the mount on a large vice. Then using a heavy hammer hit the pin till it's flush with the ball. Then take a driver (the things to embed nails in wood with) and tap it out.
The first part works great, the old mount from the 705 is now 'deformed' a little, the ball fits nice...

The second part did not work for me... i also don't understand what kind of 'driver' you are using... i've tried using a center-mark-tool for metal to center it before you drill in metal?... that doesn't stay on the pin and keeps bouncing around (logical, with a point)... i tried cutting a peace of the point so it's flat, but i just could put full pressure on it because the dogbone just wanted to go away and it just doesn't stay still without holding it....

so, what kind of driver is this really you are using, and any tips on how to use the old motor mount and keeping the dogbone in place?
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Old 08-03-2005, 05:01 AM   #21935
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Erh, it seems that some pins are just harder to get out, and i just started with that one :S

two dogbones are really hard to get the pins out, the other two where just easy to do... damn, that was frustrating
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Old 08-03-2005, 07:27 PM   #21936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
The first part works great, the old mount from the 705 is now 'deformed' a little, the ball fits nice...

The second part did not work for me... i also don't understand what kind of 'driver' you are using... i've tried using a center-mark-tool for metal to center it before you drill in metal?... that doesn't stay on the pin and keeps bouncing around (logical, with a point)... i tried cutting a peace of the point so it's flat, but i just could put full pressure on it because the dogbone just wanted to go away and it just doesn't stay still without holding it....

so, what kind of driver is this really you are using, and any tips on how to use the old motor mount and keeping the dogbone in place?
It's the type carpenters use to drive nail-heads deeper into wood without damaging the surface of the wood. Looks a lot like a centre punch but I think the tip is slightly concave.
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:18 AM   #21937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
The second part did not work for me... i also don't understand what kind of 'driver' you are using...
I'll try to post a pic of it probably this Friday !
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:03 AM   #21938
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Great then

i have got them all out btw, some hard work and i do think its a bit of a hassle, maybe i need some training in this
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:53 AM   #21939
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Default Front Diff

I am going to be racing on a track that's approx. 75' x 150' with 13 turns. The track flows pretty good but the turns are pretty slow (square) so it seems like having good brakes would be an advantage. So what would be the best to use in the front, a diff, a one-way or a locked one way? If the diff is the way to go, how would you set it up?

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Old 08-04-2005, 02:01 PM   #21940
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Use a diff. As loose on the clamp as possible. If you go too loose you'll notice the back end will slide under power. Too tight and you'll not have enough steering into the corners.

Use a higher rear roll center. Bottom top and top-inner-upper.
Also the body makes a lot of difference. I'd try a losi alfa or a stratus 3 as they are easier to get round small corners than a mazda.
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:57 PM   #21941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Use a higher rear roll center. Bottom top and top-inner-upper.
Also the body makes a lot of difference. I'd try a losi alfa or a stratus 3 as they are easier to get round small corners than a mazda.
HHi Julius to take advantage of your answer, I am racing in a Parking lot track, it has two medium sweepers but the rest of the curves are tide hair ping curves, I am having some problem with traction rolling ad mid corner entry.

My set up is the following:

REAR - UTI / LB Front

Front 1mm under

Front Tire 37 Shore / 63mm (this is only at the qualify at MAIN is 62 / 63)

Rear Tire 40 Shore / 64mm

Front Ride Height 5.5mm (I have the new Chassis plate S802121)

Rear Ride Height 6.0mm

Body Stratus I think is 2 but sure is not 3

Front Diff. is medium Hard

Rear Diff. is soft

What can I improve to solve the Traction Rolling?

Jose
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:45 PM   #21942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Use a diff. As loose on the clamp as possible. If you go too loose you'll notice the back end will slide under power. Too tight and you'll not have enough steering into the corners.

Use a higher rear roll center. Bottom top and top-inner-upper.
Also the body makes a lot of difference. I'd try a losi alfa or a stratus 3 as they are easier to get round small corners than a mazda.


How do you 'know' what roll-center settings are best at what track? This is a thing i really need to concentrate very very very hard on to understand, the basics are easy, but what setting to set is just a mistery to me...
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:11 AM   #21943
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@ rc panama:

I'd try using 37 shore rear too, or a 40 shore in front.
Use the rear roll center settings I described before: rear Lower top. Upper top inner.
This rear roll center position is wat I use all the time now. It does give a little less rear traction, but the slide is much more controllable, and you'llget more steering (I run a 45-90 degree upright front bar most of the time). In combination with the same shore tires you may get better balance.

I think you are using the different shores to get more even tire wear? If so you may want to try the 21t pulley with a 3mm split in tire size. Reset front downstop to 1.5mm lower than what you run now. I find it makes tha car more predictable and less prone to traction roll. But I must say it seems to be a personal choice
Check: http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10984
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:14 AM   #21944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
How do you 'know' what roll-center settings are best at what track? This is a thing i really need to concentrate very very very hard on to understand, the basics are easy, but what setting to set is just a mistery to me...
Experiment on a single track and see back to back what happens. Change only the roll center at one side of the car and reset all other parameters like camber downstop and toe at the same values. You'll quickly find out how the feel of the car changes.

Unfortunately nothing is always the same. So sometimes you really need to try stuff all over again on different tracks. The "theory" is only that!
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:42 AM   #21945
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Julius, how does the new chassis fit into all this together with the 21T aluminum side pulley? Any changes to the roll centre, droop etc?

BTW, I may be late on this one but it's one of the coolest looking chassis around.

Hopefully some pictures will come in.
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