It is suppose to soften the belts and get less rolling resistance... No scientific proof or anything but they seem to work very well for me at least. Not that it's a problem with the 710 belts but for budget racers like me, things like this go a long way.

Don't need to do it when new. If your belts are already used, you could give it a try. Just spray some on it.

As i sad, i got it second hand.. and the car is not like the normal kit because it was potje's car.... I still have the 4 hole pistons but i can drill a 5th one...

I'm thinking of putting together a standard 4 hole (1mm) set, a 5 hole(1.2mm) set and a 5 hole(1mm) set... but i don't know if that's the right choise...

Is there a good way to drill the 5th hole and to drill the 1mm up to 1.2mm hole dia.. i though i saw a post from somebody about it, but i can't seem to find it anymore

I believe Julius posted something... Drill the holes by hand. Mount the 1.2 mm drill bit onto something (i.e. at the back of a wooden handle) so that it would be easier to drill than using a dremel which you would have difficulty controlling the speed.

Thx for the tip(s)...
anybody who can send me to the post julius made? he described something about witch holes to drill....

d,can i use wd-40 to soak the belts???izzit bad to soak it new???are u sure ur a budget racer????

sure he is.. everybody is..... he never sad it was low budget did he?

Hy guys .. I've finished assembling my Serpent ..
About the Clutch gap, in the manual it sayas that it should be around 0.6 mm , ok .. i gout how to measure and everything
But, in my case, without any spacers, the clutch gap is around 0.3mm, like, in the manual, it says A-b-0.6, mine get's a minus 0.3 value ;-)
Can i leave it like that ?? any comments on how to make this correct ?? my engine is a Nova Mega SX-12..
TY very much for your help

Rodrigo Meira

Sure I am... If I have to spend 100 bucks to save 300, I would. RC is not cheap to begin with. When we say budget, we mean in relative terms...

You could soak the belts in WD40 or with some silicone lube. I've tried both and does not seem to have any problems.

hi, would like to know if any of you guys already used the universals that D posted some pages back, thanks

Rodrigo, have you made sure the clutch nut is tight on the crankshaft locking down the flywheel? Did you use the brass cone or the cone that came with the engine? Use the brass cone that came with the 710 kit.

How much shims did you put in between the front engine bearing and the brass cone? The manual recommends you start at 0.5 mm.

Also, how did you measure this 0.3 mm gap? Make sure when you measure the A and B values, you have NO 5x10x4 bearings inside the clutchbell. Only do measurement with the thrust bearings inserted into clutchbell.

If you still have problems, mathematically you should reduce the shim from 0.5 mm to 0.2 mm in between the front engine bearing and the brass cone and put ZERO shims in front of the thrust bearing !

This I suspect it to be a little weird... So my suggestion is to look over the above and see if you have overlooked any steps...

Don't know if they are available yet... The new chassis I've also not seen it in flesh yet.

Some say that the universals look like the 3Racing one... Don't know how true this is.

Hy Initial D.
I used the brass cone that came with the KIT and used the 0.5 spacer in the right place..
Well .. i measured that gap a lot of times .. just to be very accurate and sure about it ... and before coming here to bother u guys ..
I'm sure there was no ball bearing inside too..
Well .. i'll have to just take it all off.. and reasemble it .. i'm just anxious to get my car running, but i'm afraid to have made any mistake on assembly, so i'm taking all the precautions .. and that clutch gap was one ;-)
About the universals... i've already ordered 2 pairs from RC Mushroom, as soon as they get here i'll tell you guys what i think ...
TY for the advices.. i'll keep you guys posted..
Rodrigo Meira

Another question ..
I put the engine on it's mount. the one that came with the 710 kit.
And the pinions seems to be too "tight" with the other gears, so i asked a guy who understands more of that, to help me out ..
He unscrewed the engine screws, and he managed to get the engine to a position where it spins muuuch more freely..
Ok ...
When i got home .. i realized, that the engine was not paralel to the rear axis (the one with the brake disk) ....
Another friend of mine told me that was not good, and to not run the car like that ..
He said we need to adjust the engine mount holes in the chassi.
Any advices for me to look at !? before i dremel my chassi ?!
Tnks guys
Rodrigo Meira

The Universals are the same Serpent is now a distributor in the US for 3racing as for the new serpent milled chasis it is available got mine's in today really sweet & just finished instaliing it really impressed me on lowering the cg. now I get a chance to see how much more change it is gonna do since my car was dialed already.