Serpent 710
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, going to a new track the first time and far away is always like that. Especially without a reliable wingman <cough, cough>. Stupid things you never expect happen will happen.
I guess you came back thinking you never played so much RC in your life eh?
Well, going to a new track the first time and far away is always like that. Especially without a reliable wingman <cough, cough>. Stupid things you never expect happen will happen.
I guess you came back thinking you never played so much RC in your life eh?
I couldn't believe how intense it was. I should have really had a bit more race experience before going (the winternats was only my second race ever).Our daily routine was, getting up at about 05:00 - breakfast by 06:00 - kick Fmolzer and Ammdrew's pit bitch out of bed by 06:15
- at the circuit by 07:00. From then on, work on cars, fix cars, marshal, drive car a couple of times, fix it again, give lots of money to Fast&Furious (great guy!!!), replace broken parts, clean car, pack it all up again......at about 18:30 drive back to motel - eat, drink and then sleep (5 to 6 hours).Man that was hard work!
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey, that looks a lot like the engine on Uncle Crash's 710 !
<rub salt mode>
Hey, that looks a lot like the engine on Uncle Crash's 710 !
<rub salt mode>
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey, that looks a lot like the engine on Uncle Crash's 710 !
<rub salt mode>
Hey, that looks a lot like the engine on Uncle Crash's 710 !
<rub salt mode>
I came back with both originals!!!
What I broke: left upper and lower front arms, steering block, a couple of dog-bones and an outdrive. MS said the outdrives are a bit weak for the solid and new ones will be out soon.
I found the 3racing carbon fibre front bumper to be quite weak, too - I will replace it with the new standard upper bumper plate.
The new wheels were superb - even after taking the left-hand side off my car (due to radio glitch just before my qualifying session *EEK*) the wheels stayed very true.
Originally posted by markp27
Not much longer, matey - I'm going to get one to match my new fuel tubing
Not much longer, matey - I'm going to get one to match my new fuel tubing
You have seen the light?
The Frenchies are not going to like you.
Originally posted by markp27
However, normally the thicker sway bars would be used, too.
However, normally the thicker sway bars would be used, too.
I was actually thinking of suggesting to put original 705 steering blocks at that time when Onkel Sow asked me for suggestions on how to cut down traction roll since the last time I remembered communicating with Rene... But that would mean bigger 10x19x5 bearings which would make it slightly heavier... Anybody did that?
Originally posted by markp27
Spot the still intact rear-shock tower
I came back with both originals!!!
Spot the still intact rear-shock tower
I came back with both originals!!!
Originally posted by markp27
I found the 3racing carbon fibre front bumper to be quite weak, too - I will replace it with the new standard upper bumper plate.
I found the 3racing carbon fibre front bumper to be quite weak, too - I will replace it with the new standard upper bumper plate.
Originally posted by markp27
The new wheels were superb - even after taking the left-hand side off my car (due to radio glitch just before my qualifying session *EEK*) the wheels stayed very true.
The new wheels were superb - even after taking the left-hand side off my car (due to radio glitch just before my qualifying session *EEK*) the wheels stayed very true.
Originally posted by InitialD
You mean nobody used the thicker rear sway bar?
I was actually thinking of suggesting to put original 705 steering blocks at that time when Onkel Sow asked me for suggestions on how to cut down traction roll since the last time I remembered communicating with Rene... But that would mean bigger 10x19x5 bearings which would make it slightly heavier... Anybody did that?
You mean nobody used the thicker rear sway bar?
I was actually thinking of suggesting to put original 705 steering blocks at that time when Onkel Sow asked me for suggestions on how to cut down traction roll since the last time I remembered communicating with Rene... But that would mean bigger 10x19x5 bearings which would make it slightly heavier... Anybody did that?
I'm not aware of anyone using the old steering blocks - but it would be an interesting idea for next year.
Originally posted by InitialD
We run on low traction tracks too. The general consensus is the 2.5 mm rear sway bar and the new servo saver gives better cornering speed. Tighter turning radius too.
What problems are you having with the 2.5 mm rear bar? The rear spinning when coming out of the corner? Try a harder front sway bar setting with the 2.5 mm rear sway bar...
We run on low traction tracks too. The general consensus is the 2.5 mm rear sway bar and the new servo saver gives better cornering speed. Tighter turning radius too.
What problems are you having with the 2.5 mm rear bar? The rear spinning when coming out of the corner? Try a harder front sway bar setting with the 2.5 mm rear sway bar...
Then I'll prob install the new servo saver tonight and try the 2.5mm again.
Thanks.
Originally posted by TitaniumR
2.5mm makes rear very loose for me, on power sends tail everywhere... maybe then my rear toe was only 1.5deg causing it. Now it's 3deg.
2.5mm makes rear very loose for me, on power sends tail everywhere... maybe then my rear toe was only 1.5deg causing it. Now it's 3deg.
If you set it at 0 mm (the end of the sway bar), make sure the rear sway bar assembly does not touch and bind the rear upper arm upon suspension compression...
Originally posted by InitialD
Just a quick note... How are you installing the 2.5 mm rear sway bar? How many mm from the end of the sway bar?
If you set it at 0 mm (the end of the sway bar), make sure the rear sway bar assembly does not touch and bind the rear upper arm upon suspension compression...
Just a quick note... How are you installing the 2.5 mm rear sway bar? How many mm from the end of the sway bar?
If you set it at 0 mm (the end of the sway bar), make sure the rear sway bar assembly does not touch and bind the rear upper arm upon suspension compression...
Originally posted by InitialD
You mean nobody used the thicker rear sway bar?
I was actually thinking of suggesting to put original 705 steering blocks at that time when Onkel Sow asked me for suggestions on how to cut down traction roll since the last time I remembered communicating with Rene... But that would mean bigger 10x19x5 bearings which would make it slightly heavier... Anybody did that?
You mean nobody used the thicker rear sway bar?
I was actually thinking of suggesting to put original 705 steering blocks at that time when Onkel Sow asked me for suggestions on how to cut down traction roll since the last time I remembered communicating with Rene... But that would mean bigger 10x19x5 bearings which would make it slightly heavier... Anybody did that?
Originally posted by jag
Scotty was the only one in the A main using the 2.5mm sway bar. That could be because his car is short... I think he told me 3mm short. That's just my guess.
Scotty was the only one in the A main using the 2.5mm sway bar. That could be because his car is short... I think he told me 3mm short. That's just my guess.
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Thanks for the info. Yes, I think all this while he used the shorter wheelbase trick. I think it was Art Carbonnel who sets the car like that.
Cool. Thanks for the info. Yes, I think all this while he used the shorter wheelbase trick. I think it was Art Carbonnel who sets the car like that.



