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Old 01-31-2005, 08:21 PM   #19891
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing

He did said he would happily swap a 710 for an iPod and that you two might discuss the intriguing mysteries surrounding myopic brand loyalties.
Check this out...
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Old 02-01-2005, 06:50 AM   #19892
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by Fernando_M
Pins: Serpent P/N 808327

Sadly, Serpent discontinued the tool that made it easy to replace the pins. I don't know of any other company that manufactures it.
So how do you replace those pins? It looks like a real pain in the but.
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Old 02-01-2005, 06:59 AM   #19893
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by jag
So how do you replace those pins? It looks like a real pain in the but.
I use the old fashion way of a hammer and a vice... To aid in pushing the pin out of the dogbone, I use a smaller than 3 mm pin (broken 1.5 mm hex driver) with the aid of the hammer to push it out.
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Old 02-01-2005, 06:59 AM   #19894
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by thamjk
So during winter in europe, anyone playing? I think they need heater rather then heat sink.
Well, *they* do it all the time .. me, I stick my thermometer finger out from under my duvet on Sunday race mornings and if my finger says its too bloody cold and wet then I disappear back under the duvet!

As for heater ... yes, sometimes we run our 1:1 car's heater and put the 1:10 car inside to warm it up before starting. Once started though you can still overheat the engine if you lean it too much.
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:14 AM   #19895
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by InitialD
I use the old fashion way of a hammer and a vice... To aid in pushing the pin out of the dogbone, I use a smaller than 3 mm pin (broken 1.5 mm hex driver) with the aid of the hammer to push it out.
I assume you use a similar method to install the new one? Doesn't the vice squeeze the dogbone and make it more difficult to get the pin in and out? Are you using the sprung steel 835 dogbones?
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:26 AM   #19896
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I have a real question, now - hope D is still talking to me.

Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it?

Just from "looking" it appears the 710 clutch would be somewhat longer and the bell/shoe contact angle looks different, too.

TIA
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:34 AM   #19897
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I have a real question, now - hope D is still talking to me.

Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it?

Just from "looking" it appears the 710 clutch would be somewhat longer and the bell/shoe contact angle looks different, too.

TIA
I am curious why you would want to put a Mugen clutch bell on?
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:42 AM   #19898
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it?
Now you're really stretching it ! Why would one do it? Red clutch shoes? Besides pinion wise, you would be in trouble as the ratio will be too tall.

I've not tried it but I don't think it'll fit since the 710 clutch shoes are of smaller diameter than the Mugen's. If you wanted to fit the Mugen clutch shoe on a 705 clutch, then that could be possible.

BTW, the yellow shoes with modded clutch flyweights is already giving too much wheel spins on the 710.
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:44 AM   #19899
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
I assume you use a similar method to install the new one? Doesn't the vice squeeze the dogbone and make it more difficult to get the pin in and out? Are you using the sprung steel 835 dogbones?
I don't have the spring steel 835 dogbones... I only use the vice to give "support" to the dogbones when I use the hammer. The hammer with a help of a 2 to 3 mm pin will be used to take out the pins in the dogbone.
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:17 PM   #19900
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I use the old fashion way of a hammer and a vice... To aid in pushing the pin out of the dogbone, I use a smaller than 3 mm pin (broken 1.5 mm hex driver) with the aid of the hammer to push it out.
I use an even older fashion way: borrow the tool from a friend.
Never fails
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:35 PM   #19901
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Now you're really stretching it ! Why would one do it? Red clutch shoes? Besides pinion wise, you would be in trouble as the ratio will be too tall.
Haha, OK, I asked for that, didn't I.

Quote:
I've not tried it but I don't think it'll fit since the 710 clutch shoes are of smaller diameter than the Mugen's. If you wanted to fit the Mugen clutch shoe on a 705 clutch, then that could be possible.

BTW, the yellow shoes with modded clutch flyweights is already giving too much wheel spins on the 710.
I'm looking to fit a 710 clutch to a MTX-3.
Nah, the 705 clutch isn't anything special, but the 710 one is very good, I think.
But your right of course, the 710 shoe is of smaller diameter - forgot about that.
I guess I could machine down the Mugen bell, but would I just be machining off the angled section that contacts the shoe?
I guess the question is, what's the OD of the 710 clutch bell?
And yeah, I could tame the wheelspin.
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:45 PM   #19902
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
I assume you use a similar method to install the new one? Doesn't the vice squeeze the dogbone and make it more difficult to get the pin in and out?
jag,
I think cheapskate D's method is to just crack open the vice enough so that when you hammer the pin, the pin will pass down the gap in the slightly open vice.
You can also use, say, a 6mm nut sitting on the vice (or anything heavy/solid) to support the round part of the doggie while you hammer the pin out.
Yes, I've been a cheapskate, on occasion, too.
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:05 PM   #19903
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
I use an even older fashion way: borrow the tool from a friend.
Never fails
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:08 PM   #19904
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
jag,
I think cheapskate D's method is to just crack open the vice enough so that when you hammer the pin, the pin will pass down the gap in the slightly open vice.
You can also use, say, a 6mm nut sitting on the vice (or anything heavy/solid) to support the round part of the doggie while you hammer the pin out.
Yes, I've been a cheapskate, on occasion, too.
That's correct mate.

BTW, it takes one cheapskate to know the other. And I think you would agree that cheapskateness is paramount to RC survival.
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:10 PM   #19905
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I'm looking to fit a 710 clutch to a MTX-3.
Ahuh ! I'll go back and check the OD of the clutch bell.

But anyway, why don't you change the clutch completely to the Centax 3? That would eliminate the problem since you will use the Centax 3 flywheel and all their internals. Just make sure your engine mounting height is 14.5 mm with a 4 mm chassis.

Or better still change the car to a 710?
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