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Old 10-01-2004, 02:22 PM   #16696
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has anyone tried the new picco mega 12's yet?
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:50 PM   #16697
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
OK, I'm not sure about your driving style but my local track has a fast chicane. You can see many videos of it at my site 3hobby.com.

To get a fast time on this track you definitely need to be able to transition quickly on this chicane and for me the best I've found is to use 35Wt on Red springs all round. At the moment I'm on 4 holes (stock sized holes) in front and 3 in the rear.
Interesting...I was going to try the 35 W with red springs this weekend but I put the 40 W in. Might change to 35 for one of the heats...I will have a look at you track on 3hobby.

From what I can tell about the oils they have a spring rating on the label 30(yellow) 40(red) and 35(orange)? Why orange?
Sow does your say orange on the 35 oil label as well?
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:52 PM   #16698
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
Interesting...I was going to try the 35 W with red springs this weekend but I put the 40 W in. Might change to 35 for one of the heats...I will have a look at you track on 3hobby.

From what I can tell about the oils they have a spring rating on the label 30(yellow) 40(red) and 35(orange)? Why orange?
Sow does your say orange on the 35 oil label as well?
Ah, no. I bought mine quite a while back and it doesn't have the spring color on it.

Strage that you would put orange with 35 because orange is softer than yellow!
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:55 PM   #16699
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Ah, no. I bought mine quite a while back and it doesn't have the spring color on it.

Strage that you would put orange with 35 because orange is softer than yellow!
Exactly my thoughts

Why does it say orange on 35, when it is the softest spring.

All the shock oil I have has a spring value on it, and sparksy's is the same as well. Anyone else have these on there oil labels?
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Old 10-01-2004, 03:13 PM   #16700
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
OK, I'm not sure about your driving style but my local track has a fast chicane. You can see many videos of it at my site 3hobby.com.

To get a fast time on this track you definitely need to be able to transition quickly on this chicane and for me the best I've found is to use 35Wt on Red springs all round. At the moment I'm on 4 holes (stock sized holes) in front and 3 in the rear.

Also...

What roll centres do you run Front and Rear?
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Old 10-01-2004, 03:40 PM   #16701
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
Also...

What roll centres do you run Front and Rear?
Not sure why for your previous question. In fact I don't pay attention to the colours given because I'm not sure whether they're meant for the 710 springs or the 950 ones. Remember that these springs may have the same colour but their lengths are different!

As for roll-centers, that's a difficult question because one setting affects another.

In general, your car's set-up and thus behaviour is all about how it transfers weight as the car makes a transition from one state to another.

So, in theory, if you change the roll-center, you change its position in relation the center of gravity of the car and hence it affects the amount of force applicable to the CG which in turn affects the roll of the chassis. For example, if you lower the front RC, you are taking this point further away from the CG and therefore forces the car to roll more. More roll in the front gives more grip to the front tyres.

In the end, all the adjustments work together or against each other and everything is a matter of compromise.
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Old 10-01-2004, 04:05 PM   #16702
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Not sure why for your previous question. In fact I don't pay attention to the colours given because I'm not sure whether they're meant for the 710 springs or the 950 ones. Remember that these springs may have the same colour but their lengths are different!

As for roll-centers, that's a difficult question because one setting affects another.

In general, your car's set-up and thus behaviour is all about how it transfers weight as the car makes a transition from one state to another.

So, in theory, if you change the roll-center, you change its position in relation the center of gravity of the car and hence it affects the amount of force applicable to the CG which in turn affects the roll of the chassis. For example, if you lower the front RC, you are taking this point further away from the CG and therefore forces the car to roll more. More roll in the front gives more grip to the front tyres.

In the end, all the adjustments work together or against each other and everything is a matter of compromise.
The point you make about the 950R springs is a good one, perhaps this is what the code is relating too.

I understand the theory behind roll centres. I was wanting to know what you run with the setup you have (Red springs 35W oil)
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Old 10-01-2004, 04:59 PM   #16703
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Quote:
Originally posted by evlhdlts
has anyone tried the new picco mega 12's yet?
Ask Julius and Michael Salven. They have used them and they find the engine very good !
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:00 PM   #16704
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
Interesting...I was going to try the 35 W with red springs this weekend but I put the 40 W in. Might change to 35 for one of the heats...I will have a look at you track on 3hobby.
Just a suggestion Picard. If you play a lot with shock oils and springs, perhaps it would be good if you get another complete set of shocks just to play around. When racing, it's nice to have spares. It'll save you a lot of time draining out the oils, making sure they rebound the same etc etc.

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
From what I can tell about the oils they have a spring rating on the label 30(yellow) 40(red) and 35(orange)? Why orange?
Sow does your say orange on the 35 oil label as well?
Yes they say orange on the 35wt bottle. Don't know why... Perhaps Serpent already knew that it's going to be their colour and that 35wt would work best all around.
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:04 PM   #16705
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Ah, no. I bought mine quite a while back and it doesn't have the spring color on it.
Are you sure you're getting the real Serpent shock oil Onkel Sow? Lest we do not want others to accuse us here of using products that are not made in Holland !
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:05 PM   #16706
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Not sure why for your previous question. In fact I don't pay attention to the colours given because I'm not sure whether they're meant for the 710 springs or the 950 ones. Remember that these springs may have the same colour but their lengths are different!
I think you're referring to the slightly longer Veteq (also used on the 705) set of springs. Not the 950 ones. They are the same as the ones used on the 710.

According to Master Rene (the FORCE is with you), the slightly longer Veteq rear springs are two colours softer than the normal ones i.e. Yellow Veteq rear springs = White normal rear springs.

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
So, in theory, if you change the roll-center, you change its position in relation the center of gravity of the car and hence it affects the amount of force applicable to the CG which in turn affects the roll of the chassis. For example, if you lower the front RC, you are taking this point further away from the CG and therefore forces the car to roll more. More roll in the front gives more grip to the front tyres.
Restecpa !
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:06 PM   #16707
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
I understand the theory behind roll centres. I was wanting to know what you run with the setup you have (Red springs 35W oil)
Onkel Sow is very ellusive about his setup. Perhaps Mark is reading somewhere here. Remember they will go against each other on the track this weekend.
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:07 PM   #16708
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
So did he explain the difference in the car reaction between the 2?
I think I found it !

Re: Shock Oil and Piston Hole Relation
Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Rene / Julius or anybody,

Is 35wt shock oil with 4 holes the same as 40wt shock oil with 5 holes in terms of shock damping?

How does the 5 hole shock (the fifth hole being 1.2 mm in diameter if I'm not mistaken) throw into the equation? Why was this done? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
No it is not the same. Because part of the oil goes through the holes and part around the piston.

The 5th hole is the same size as the others. It was done so you'd have 2-5 holes instead of 1-4 holes. This means the adjusment steps are smaller. The initial damping is slightly softer (always 2 holes).
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:07 PM   #16709
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Just a suggestion Picard. If you play a lot with shock oils and springs, perhaps it would be good if you get another complete set of shocks just to play around. When racing, it's nice to have spares. It'll save you a lot of time draining out the oils, making sure they rebound the same etc etc.



Yes they say orange on the 35wt bottle. Don't know why... Perhaps Serpent already knew that it's going to be their colour and that 35wt would work best all around.
Yes..Good point, I just got a set of alloy, so I have 2 sets. ( 1 Standard )
Shock oils is about the only thing on the car I haven't played with.
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:08 PM   #16710
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
Exactly D. This is what I have found as well and what I have been saying. I also run the high front roll centre and the car feels fantastic IMO
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