CVDs are more efficient and prevents you from loosing dogbones on slight impact sometimes. But remember that if you bend the CVD joints, you need to replace them as you would a bend dogbone. But I figure replacing CVDs are more costly.

Anyway, CVDs for the 710 are not out yet from Serpent. 3Racing makes UJs but they snap pretty easily too.

So for the moment, a tip from Julius would be to put some fuel tubing on the wheel side (not the oneway drivecup side) so that the dogbones get pushed more towards the center and does not get entangled with the nothes of the wheeldrive cup. Once the wheeldrive cup nothes "catches" the dogbone shaft, it'll either yank the dogbone out or snap it.

Are the universals from RDLogic and 3Racing from the same source??

I would think so. Look at the hop ups for MTX-3 and you see the same thing also.

Thanks InitialD, I will be trying that.
If I keep breaking them I will make some like I did for my NTC3. I haven't broke any of my homemade ones yet.

Cool. Let us know how it works. If you're doing something on your own, please share with us some pics. Anyone is always curious.

hello.....
I tried to download 710 FAQ from MarkP signiture... but cannot do it... does anyone know how and where i can get it. if someone has in on there comp, could you please email it to [email protected] thanks in advance.

Those jokers (Mark and Onkel Sow) are playing with the RING again. (j/k)

You could also go to Serpent 710 product page on mytsn and on the download page, you could already see it as the first item to download. Size mentioned is 575 KB.

http://www.mytsn.com/products/downlds.asp?prid=3293

You could also download other goodies like the drive ratio table and the blank PDF setup sheet where you can input your own setups and print it out for reference.

Yeah, yeah you both won't be laughing when I turn up with my Truck Lawnmower and mangle your cars

How'd it happen? Did the dogbone just break or did you hit something?

How true And Sow ended up destroying his website when he mis-read the instructions for the how-to-make-extra-RC-cars-invisible-to-wifey ring trick!!

And now I see that my FAQ link is broken Oh man we're all doomed!!!!!!!!

So you do have the lawnmower...

Uh oh! Erm.......no

Ah... You cannot do that with just pure magic. Those you need skills (the RING helps) which I myself have not mastered fully.

Just link to mytsn website then.

ugh... i hate when hosts fail you like that.. i've come across one thats pretty reliable its not a promotion or anything.. i just used them in the past and they were super stable.. anyway check em out..

http://www.made2own.com

if there is a referal thingy for discounts, tell em "shima" from [G]eneral Mayhem sent you!

anyways back to some question i have regarding 710:

1. is rear section of the car relatively integral, ie. do the parts interlock to create stiffer sectioning? reason i ask is that the R40 does this but in a manner that just adds weight.

also, does the front one-way locked into a solid axle make the car react better to short track? thanks.

Good info, tranced! Hopefully Sow gets his website back up-and-running soon

The 710 is indeed only fully rigid when all the components have been installed - you can actually appear to have some binding in the suspension arms during the build process which will dissapear when the car is complete.

The locked one-way will not give you the same level of steering as the one-way, but you gain 4-wheel braking, which is useful if you have a circuit where there is lots of heavy braking to do. If you don't brake so much on your circuit, then generally the one-way is the better choice.