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Old 04-04-2004, 07:02 PM   #7621
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Arrow Worlds

Wanted to know if any of you guys are planning to participate in the 1/10 200mm World Championship, to be held in Jundiaí, São Paulo, Brazil in October 2004.

Patrick Bandeira de Mello
- Bandeira Racing Team -
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Old 04-04-2004, 07:05 PM   #7622
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
You're right I forget that the 710 has two "arms" I'm still "playing" with my 705, but the 710 will soon hit the track
Keeping the 705? I am... I can't part with it! Recently adapted it for use with the GTP body and got a RS12S5 for it with Nova 52605 turbo pipe. So it's now my "outlaw" car. Just cant seem to get the weight lower than 1776g... Got the 710 down to 1711g! Will post pics as soon as I can borrow a digital camera.
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Old 04-04-2004, 08:58 PM   #7623
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks I only started with RC last year and never really had the time to do much driving with the 705. To improve my driving, I bought an EVO III last November. Now returning to the 705 my driving is much better than last year - my only problem is my memory!
I actually didn't have one "off" today - which is amazing considering how twitchy the car was - the EVO III winter practice really paid off
mark,I just started playing back my EVO III, last 2 days...it felt so so so,slow ...how come, eh? Maybe i run it on our GP track...hahhaha. The 8T with 8 final ratio didn't do any good even with matched batteries. too bad...i heard this weekend we have EP race.

But i do improves on my GP style of driving.
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:19 PM   #7624
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Default Radio Tray On/Off Switch

I finally got a good photo of where I mounted my
Hi-Tec On/Off Switch.

Hope this helps the individuals that asked how I mounted it ???

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Old 04-04-2004, 09:24 PM   #7625
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Default Re: Radio Tray On/Off Switch

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
I finally got a good photo of where I mounted my
Hi-Tec On/Off Switch.

Hope this helps the individuals that asked how I mounted it ???

Man, thats cool
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:24 PM   #7626
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Default Front Stering Knuckles

Although there really isnt any significant weight advantage, I found that the 3Racing Delrin Plastic ball Screw adapters were pretty cool.

Instead of using the ballcup shim/cups you no longer need them with these ballscrew adapters, eliminate them and use only the screws. (what a great , easy, idea)

Second of all, set up some front steering knuckles ahead of time to reduce the time that is required when breaking them in a real time environment.

(the bearings are made by BOCA, although the new purple serpent bearings are better than the older versions, I went with a well known, proven bearing that has worked for me for quite some time.
They have the 710 kit available when needed !!!! I set up the numbers needed and they will supply a full car kit when needed.

Scott

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Old 04-04-2004, 09:30 PM   #7627
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Default Re: Front Stering Knuckles

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Although there really isnt any significant weight advantage, I found that the 3Racing Delrin Plastic ball Screw adapters were pretty cool.

Instead of using the ballcup shim/cups you no longer need them with these ballscrew adapters, eliminate them and use only the screws. (what a great , easy, idea)

Second of all, set up some front steering knuckles ahead of time to reduce the time that is required when breaking them in a real time environment.

(the bearings are made by BOCA, although the new purple serpent bearings are better than the older versions, I went with a well known, proven bearing that has worked for me for quite some time.
They have the 710 kit available when needed !!!! I set up the numbers needed and they will supply a full car kit when needed.

Scott

Now, thats one more part that need no worry. thanks for the info.
Hey Jab, i noticed almost all parts u used in the 710 is from 3Racing...is it?
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:55 PM   #7628
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Thumbs up few questions

Am I correct to say the following?


1) tigther rear diff, less grip on rear

2) looser rear diff more grip.

3) more caster results in a little less steering? (at which point?)

4) more caster more steering on power at corner exit and mid corner. also more stable down the straight way.

I am trying to make sure i understand correclty the 710 book.

Today at racing i was running on a hi tracktion track but my rear end was sliding all over. I was running red in the rear with 3 holes , yellow in the fron with 4 holes, 40wt oil all around.

i had the front anti roll bar at 45deg in the front.

tyres where 40 all around.

ride height 5mm all around

and the roll centers where stock.

caster, 2mm spacer in the back. (a litte more caster I had the 1 + 4mm in the front)



what could my problem be?
I though of chancing to red all around or yellow all around?

where do you being in with a problem like this?
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:55 PM   #7629
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
My friend put the switch inside the radio tray and made a cut out so that its flush. Very clean indeed but you need a small receiver in order for the switch to fit inside. He has the factory 3PK receiver.
i did the same thing with my 710 with the micro receiver for jr.
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:56 PM   #7630
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3pk receiver had fail save built in.. it saved me today twice !!!! i wont trade it for a switch. the plug direct is much better.
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Old 04-04-2004, 09:59 PM   #7631
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Default Re: New Colours

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Eventually got my camera back from my mate - here's a pic of my new body shell with colours heavily borowed from Cox.

Cheers, Mark.
Very nice mark! Super clean And cool G3/G4 PB's background

Peace
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:01 PM   #7632
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
i think InitialD doin this style WOT and Goldfinger...and i know Joehwee from singapore also doing it. [i maybe mistaken someone else! ]

You don't put the glow ignitor on the glow plug throughout. You put it on only when you close the throttle and open the tank lid to refuel. The glow ignitor is just there to ensure that the engine keeps running. Opening the fuel tank when at WOT will make the engine scream ! That's not what you want.

Well, I know I don't do it for 10 minutes. That's for sure. But a tank will take very fast. Say about 2 minutes. The HSN is set to very rich (perhaps 8 to 9 rounds) so much so that at WOT, the engine is gurgling and spewing out oil from the pipe. For the new Novas, I would do about 15 to 20 tanks or so with this method. Running it rich constantly flushes out all the dirt and metal debris and lubricates the parts necessarily to polish the piston and liner.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:03 PM   #7633
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Where are you guys mounting your switch? I searched for some pics, but couldn't find one that gave me a definitive answer.
Welcome aboard kansasracer.

The reason why you cannot find a definite answer on the switch is because a race car does not require one !

But seriously, like fmolzer mentioned, most of us use KO servo entender wires to plug in (on) or plug out (off). That's the safest way. Cheap too. You could use the KO switch which is pretty neat but I hear that it zaps a little bit of the battery too when not on. I think clmbia45 used it on his MTX-3 before.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:04 PM   #7634
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Default Re: 710 related

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I know that if I want more acceleration i must go to a smalled pinion and if I want more top end i need a larger 2nd speed pinion. however I noticed that you can change spurs..? so now i am a bit confused. I guess you can achieve the same effect depending on if you change spurs or pinions? or is there a difference / advantage to changind one over the other?
Changing pinions will give you drastic gear ratio changes (as well as Final Drive Ratios). Changing spurs will give you finer gear ratio changes.

You can achieve same effect by changing only pinions or by just changing spurs as long as the end result of the gear ratio is about the same.

Don't forget in all the gearing discussions, the tire diameter adds to another variable in the tire rollout / top speed discussion.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:05 PM   #7635
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
can someone point me to some lit. in regards to the difference between a one way and a locked axle? (front of the 710)
and their benefits and idea behind it. I want this info in efforts to decide what is best and when to use it.
What about the setup booklet included with the kit? That should explain something basic there.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
(but doesnt a diff do this also?)
The front diff does not allow the front drive train to rotate independently at different speed from the rear drive train when OFF POWER unlike with the oneway front.
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