3LikesMugen MBX6
07-19-2010, 11:27 AM
#8236
FWIW, the above setup is meant to allow you to have more consistent rebound on the shock instead of relying on just an air bubble behind the bladder. The Losi and X-ray guys like running rebound but their shocks are much shorter stroke than ours, not sure what effect it'd have on a MBX6.
07-19-2010, 11:37 AM
#8237
I haven't tried this ^^ but it's not an emulsion shock, it's still a bladder shock that separates the air from the oil. Emulsion shocks are what is found on AE and Losi 1/10th cars where the air mixes with the oil.
FWIW, the above setup is meant to allow you to have more consistent rebound on the shock instead of relying on just an air bubble behind the bladder. The Losi and X-ray guys like running rebound but their shocks are much shorter stroke than ours, not sure what effect it'd have on a MBX6.
FWIW, the above setup is meant to allow you to have more consistent rebound on the shock instead of relying on just an air bubble behind the bladder. The Losi and X-ray guys like running rebound but their shocks are much shorter stroke than ours, not sure what effect it'd have on a MBX6.
07-19-2010, 11:40 AM
#8239
which foams do you have in them? The Mugen bladders are much deeper than the Losi ones so I doubt if the Losi foams will help with the stock bladders againt collapsing.
07-19-2010, 11:48 AM
#8240
That is why I added the comment to clarify the ask about the shock setup.....
JPZ, Overall, the M-SPEC build was good. I re-did the diffs and they were not not quite full and I did have to add locktight to the 2 screws in the front top plate into the steering posts. Other than that, it seems like the setup was consistent with the setup sheet and from one side of the car to the other, even the ride height was good. I have not rebuilt the shocks yet since they felt good (Will be tearing down this week anyway to put Tony's S5 orings in the diffs and re-doing shocks and stuff...).
If you get the truggy let me know, Nick ran ours at Mikes on Saturday and loved it. Setup is pretty spot on for an outdoor/loose track like Mikes, we even ran XTR Revolvers. Will have to play with it a bit for higher traction tracks, but I think that will mainly be the shock location, ride height, rear toe plate and maybe clutch bell. I ran it with a 14T clutchbell for out there (Partly due to size of track and partly due to the fact that Orange head Alpha has ton's of bottom end).
JPZ, Overall, the M-SPEC build was good. I re-did the diffs and they were not not quite full and I did have to add locktight to the 2 screws in the front top plate into the steering posts. Other than that, it seems like the setup was consistent with the setup sheet and from one side of the car to the other, even the ride height was good. I have not rebuilt the shocks yet since they felt good (Will be tearing down this week anyway to put Tony's S5 orings in the diffs and re-doing shocks and stuff...).
If you get the truggy let me know, Nick ran ours at Mikes on Saturday and loved it. Setup is pretty spot on for an outdoor/loose track like Mikes, we even ran XTR Revolvers. Will have to play with it a bit for higher traction tracks, but I think that will mainly be the shock location, ride height, rear toe plate and maybe clutch bell. I ran it with a 14T clutchbell for out there (Partly due to size of track and partly due to the fact that Orange head Alpha has ton's of bottom end).
07-19-2010, 01:17 PM
#8241
We talk the foam-assisted bladders a few pages back... I'm currently testing it. I don't feel much difference so far, but then again what I was after was shock consistency (due to bladder not collapsing and shock cartridge leaking) rather than performance changes. So far so good.
So far so good. Using losi foams, edges have to be trimmed a bit. The worst part was drilling the caps, Mugen alloy is HARD
Paul
So far so good. Using losi foams, edges have to be trimmed a bit. The worst part was drilling the caps, Mugen alloy is HARD
Paul
07-19-2010, 02:31 PM
#8243
Registered User
thaks for that i thought a thicker rear diff oil would help
ill also try the hubs as well
Cheers all
07-19-2010, 02:40 PM
#8244
Use the upper hole in the rear uprights, that will also give you massive grip.
07-19-2010, 02:44 PM
#8245
Registered User
07-19-2010, 03:10 PM
#8246
First try the rear camberlink in the lowest hole on the schoktower, if you then steel need more grip use the upperhole in the rearhub.
Mayby you can give Savoya's european championship setup a try, that was on a very low traction track.
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/..._euros2010.pdf
Mayby you can give Savoya's european championship setup a try, that was on a very low traction track.
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/..._euros2010.pdf
07-19-2010, 04:09 PM
#8247
07-19-2010, 04:14 PM
#8248
You should be able to get great traction from the Mugen. I know if you drive hard, it's easy to break all these buggies loose. For my liking, I run a weaker clutch spring. That slows down the snap.
07-19-2010, 08:18 PM
#8249
Results may vary but, in my experience, the higher pin location on the hub yields less traction mid corner not more. Higher in location=low roll center...Someone correct me if I'm wrong here 
As Donnie mentioned, use the lower hole on the tower, outside on the hub. If that doesn't work, go up in the rear diff and maybe run the rear arms flatter (low position on antisquat).
As Donnie mentioned, use the lower hole on the tower, outside on the hub. If that doesn't work, go up in the rear diff and maybe run the rear arms flatter (low position on antisquat).
Last edited by s porter; 07-19-2010 at 09:04 PM.
07-19-2010, 09:01 PM
#8250
Somebody tried Losi SMART diff in the centre (or front) on MBX6?
What impressions?
What impressions?