Like Tree3Likes

Mugen MBX6

Old 03-05-2012, 02:55 PM
  #15736  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
whiskyshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posts: 259
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Foam compensators

Hey I was just doing a rebuild on my 6r shocks and in my line of sight was a pack of losi foams from last year. Has anyone ever used them on the mugen?
whiskyshooter is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 03:22 PM
  #15737  
Tech Master
iTrader: (64)
 
KThatcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: 1000 Oaks, Ca.
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by whiskyshooter
Hey I was just doing a rebuild on my 6r shocks and in my line of sight was a pack of losi foams from last year. Has anyone ever used them on the mugen?

I think you would have to drill vent holes in the top of the caps.

and no have never tried it
KThatcher is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 05:41 PM
  #15738  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (207)
 
Trevor Williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 8,382
Trader Rating: 207 (100%+)
Default

a few things I wont be running / needing....a few guys had asked about them earlier.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10426551
Trevor Williams is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:38 PM
  #15739  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
 
jmaxey51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 3,917
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by morgoth
I also perfer a 4 shoe clutch because of the feeling. I'm used to drive electric and a 4 shoe clutch suits my driving style better.

I have the ascendancy clucht and it has 4 race weekends on it (2.5 gallons) and yesterday 3 springs snapped at once while I was testing a new track layout. The shoes were worn so much that I had no luck with replacing the springs. After a few more tanks of fuel they snapped again.

How long do you're shoes and clutchbell last? Both have 2.5 gallons on it, but it's my first racing nitro buggy so I have no clue when I should replace the clutchbell. I guess they last a little longer then the clutch shoes or am I wrong?
I run M2C and change shoes and springs about every 3.5-4. The key to wear is to not have grooves in cb. I learned mugen cb run hotter so shoes wear faster, but they last a while too... I run ascendancy bells. When I ran ascendancy clutch systems over a year ago I replaced shoes 2-2.5 gallons and springs every gallon bc they would weaken.

As for clutch bell replacement, I usually replace every 3 months or when grooves start to form.
jmaxey51 is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 07:19 PM
  #15740  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
plus2ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Plymouth Michigan
Posts: 380
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

+1 on the m2c clutch and asendancy bell. I ran an asendancy bell for 4 gallons before it was toast. I think the vented bell help bearing life as well. I run the m2c in buggy with the .9 springs and medium shoes, and its really smooth. I use the stock 3 shoe in truck with 1.1 springs for extra umph
plus2ss is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:53 PM
  #15741  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
imaxx21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LA
Posts: 2,753
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Joey Powell
Just got done shooting Bobby Moore's JConcepts Punisher bodies for his MBX6R for the Psycho Nitro Blast. Wish I could make it this year. Good luck to the Mugen team!
looks good, Peaches
imaxx21 is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:28 PM
  #15742  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
 
BigNasty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: About 2 laps down...
Posts: 2,284
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by imaxx21
looks good, Peaches
+100


good luck to all the mugen pilots this week. i won't be down south til AMS 3.0
BigNasty is offline  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:17 PM
  #15743  
Tech Master
 
Sideshow Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Africa
Posts: 1,056
Default

Originally Posted by whiskyshooter
Hey I was just doing a rebuild on my 6r shocks and in my line of sight was a pack of losi foams from last year. Has anyone ever used them on the mugen?
im not sure if they are tall enough for the mugen bladders? ive been running the same setup i used to have in my 2011 xray. i use the ribbed xray bladders and the xray foams...i did not drill the caps..yet, i used to do this in my xray but i had 2 sets of shocks - one drilled and one stock with the same bladder foam setup and i could really tell the difference between drilled and not.I still need to run the stock mugen bladders, but so far my current setup is working nicely. the shocks stay very consistent throughout the day and that extra pop coming off the jumps is nice. the bladder also never collapse. the reason why i never ran the mugen bladders before is when i built them for the very first time i could collapse them with only a little push while seated in the cap. this was not an issue with the xray setup so i ended up just building them like that. and because the xray is not quite 15mm, but rather 15,3mm..it is a nice tight seal too.
Sideshow Bob is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:20 AM
  #15744  
Tech Addict
 
curacing2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New Zealand Auckland
Posts: 594
Default

I wonder if Mugen will ever do a vented bell, would have been a nice addition to the 6R.
I've run a few different brand bells on the 4 shoe, the Mugen and VP-Pro meshed the nicest, the acendancy was the worst, even with a new spur gear I couldn't a smooth mesh, the teeth look fatter...I also find with running a 4 shoe the mugen bell is slightly smaller and engages the clutch earlier, good when the shoes are very worn and on the green springs.

with the 6R has Mugen kept the same diff ratios?...a friend of mine told me they were different, possibly the o/drive( Lower ratio) set F and R with the 44 spur would make it the same as the 46.
curacing2 is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 07:18 AM
  #15745  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
Joey Powell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 613
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Crash/BigNasty-Much obliged.
Joey Powell is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 08:07 AM
  #15746  
Tech Regular
 
chad bradley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Valencia CA
Posts: 411
Default

Here's the setup I ran at the Nitro Challenge, not too different from the last setup I posted. I did make a few changes, that seemed to really help at the fear farm. I ran the wheel hexes that Peterson and the team likes (+1mm in the front and +2mm rear).

I took some active caster out by using the middle insert on the upper front arm for the shock tower and used the lower hole insert on the mount above the steering bellcranks.

Raised the steering rack 2mm to take some bump steer out at full compression.

Car worked really good, learned alot
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
MBX6-R Nitro Challenge Setup.pdf (322.7 KB, 545 views)
chad bradley is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 08:21 AM
  #15747  
Tech Regular
 
chad bradley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Valencia CA
Posts: 411
Default

been playing alot with the rear roll center. going between the -1 hight and 3 degree rear toe and the middle antisquat postion (I'll call this A postion). The other roll center 0 hight 3 degree toe and upper antisquat postion (Call this B)

"A" is easier to drive, rear feels softer around the track and doesnt transfer a bunch of weight to the front when entering a turn. I prefer this position.

"B" I think may be faster, but is harder to drive and less consistent. I dont like how high the rear end stays when entering the turns, but has a little more forward traction on the exit compared to A settings. B jumps further, may traction roll easier and catch bumps in the turns.

"A" will be my standard rear roll center/antisquat positon for most conditions. "B" I will consider if the conditions are loose and smooth
chad bradley is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 08:22 AM
  #15748  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Default

Originally Posted by chad bradley
Here's the setup I ran at the Nitro Challenge, not too different from the last setup I posted. I did make a few changes, that seemed to really help at the fear farm. I ran the wheel hexes that Peterson and the team likes (+1mm in the front and +2mm rear).

I took some active caster out by using the middle insert on the upper front arm for the shock tower and used the lower hole insert on the mount above the steering bellcranks.

Raised the steering rack 2mm to take some bump steer out at full compression.

Car worked really good, learned alot
How that steering rack raising is made? Any chances to get picture of that?
RookieForever is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 08:47 AM
  #15749  
Tech Regular
 
chad bradley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Valencia CA
Posts: 411
Default

Originally Posted by RookieForever
How that steering rack raising is made? Any chances to get picture of that?
I'll try to get a pic up asap.

But its super easy to do, you just need 2mm worth of steel warshers for each side of the rack where it bolts to the plastic steering bell cranks and you may need 2 screws that are slightly longer than the stock. The washers go below the steering rack, between the rack and bell crank.
chad bradley is offline  
Old 03-06-2012, 08:48 AM
  #15750  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Loganville Ga
Posts: 755
Default

Chad, do you run the truggy rear tower?
brian kadow is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.