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Old 03-07-2006, 09:34 AM   #3346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum
i also wonder how much harder it is to put those machine screws into the graphite material... when i get the graphite tub should i thread the holes with the regular steel screws first ?
YES, you absolutely MUST pre-thread the holes in the graphite tub first. Or better, tap them with a tap or a tapping screw. After I did, I was able to install my aluminum screws with no problem.

But, in some cases even taping the holes isn't enough. I just go the graphite battery strap. The hole where the strap poles thread into were tapped, had already been used by the steel poles, but STILL, when I thread the aluminum pole into one of the holes(very slowly I might add), the damn thing snapped of in the hole on me! So now(after drilling the pole threads out of the hole) I have one alloy pole and one steel one on my car.

So you have to be very careful, even after you have tapped the holes.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:26 AM   #3347
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I ended up changing my aluminum screws to Ti, no patience re-screwing em.

I got an answer from Fred of TamiyaUSA regarding the chassis. and here is his comment
"I only have a few samples as Tamiya USA doesn't have
regular stock yet. I checked the samples and they too are not perfectly
flat. They will never be. Cliff Let once explained to me that a molded tub
chassis will never be as flat as a good carbon plate. That is the one
drawback of the tub chassis. I think though, once you slap the other carbon
parts it should make it better as everything is screwed down. I'll have to
see and check it out."

I believe this is true and we should try working with the new chassis after everything is put together.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:39 AM   #3348
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Talking Lt. wt. chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Actually, my kit plastic tub was about the same as the new graphite tub. I didn't pay much attention to it when I initially built the kit because its not one of those things I go crazy worrying about.

But now that I have taken the kit tub off, I can clearly si that its tweaked.

But it just didn't matter, the car still handled great. Which is why I wonder why people are so concerned about it now.
AS long as the car handles well, I have no problem! There were a couple of racers at the track with the light weight chassis and they said the car performed great! I'm still working on mine (tapping holes). I have ran TA04 tubs and they were not perfect also and the car worked great. I just thought the 1mm tweak was a little excessive!
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:04 AM   #3349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyracer
I ended up changing my aluminum screws to Ti, no patience re-screwing em.

I got an answer from Fred of TamiyaUSA regarding the chassis. and here is his comment
"I only have a few samples as Tamiya USA doesn't have
regular stock yet. I checked the samples and they too are not perfectly
flat. They will never be. Cliff Let once explained to me that a molded tub
chassis will never be as flat as a good carbon plate. That is the one
drawback of the tub chassis. I think though, once you slap the other carbon
parts it should make it better as everything is screwed down. I'll have to
see and check it out."

I believe this is true and we should try working with the new chassis after everything is put together.
Sounds like it makes sense to me. Like I said, I can count the perfect chassis I've owned on one hand easily. And thats covering a lot of cars and alot of manufacturers.

Thats why in general, I stopped checking stuff like that. I just put the car together, set it up and drive it. As long as it works well, the chassis can be as twisted as a pretzel for all I care!
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:52 AM   #3350
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You guys are a lot more forgiving than the guys over on the xray form.
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:16 PM   #3351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzyracer
I ended up changing my aluminum screws to Ti, no patience re-screwing em.

I got an answer from Fred of TamiyaUSA regarding the chassis. and here is his comment
"I only have a few samples as Tamiya USA doesn't have
regular stock yet. I checked the samples and they too are not perfectly
flat. They will never be. Cliff Let once explained to me that a molded tub
chassis will never be as flat as a good carbon plate. That is the one
drawback of the tub chassis. I think though, once you slap the other carbon
parts it should make it better as everything is screwed down. I'll have to
see and check it out."

I believe this is true and we should try working with the new chassis after everything is put together.
well i definitely believe this.. since its coming from two different competing companies telling you that tub chassis never come out perfect (associated and tamiya).
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:18 PM   #3352
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Go ask him yourself... punk!
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:23 PM   #3353
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All the graphite parts are available in the US , so it should now be TCS legal.
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:18 PM   #3354
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ooopppsss
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:32 PM   #3355
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Talking TAPPING THREADS CLASS #101

[
Quote:
QUOTE=Darkseid]YES, you absolutely MUST pre-thread the holes in the graphite tub first. Or better, tap them with a tap or a tapping screw. After I did, I was able to install my aluminum screws with no problem.

But, in some cases even taping the holes isn't enough. I just go the graphite battery strap. The hole where the strap poles thread into were tapped, had already been used by the steel poles, but STILL, when I thread the aluminum pole into one of the holes(very slowly I might add), the damn thing snapped of in the hole on me! So now(after drilling the pole threads out of the hole) I have one alloy pole and one steel one on my car.

So you have to be very careful, even after you have tapped the holes.[/
QUOTE]

Tapping holes can be a pain but if done right you will never have to worry about a stripped thread. REALLY! Instead of using a steel screw, spend the $4.00 for a 3mm tap and drill. Most hobby stores have them.
The trick to tapping is making sure to tap straight. In other words as you start to tap don't lean to one side or the other,if not you wil. make the threads oversized and slopy and that will also cause the screw to strip.
Hold the tap nice and straight for at least 2 turns, I try to make a half a turn then rotate the part 90degrees so I see that I'm tapping to make sure I'm not leaning in the other direction then after 2 turns the tap will follow the hole.
Oh, I also use a drop of oil before tapping, if you don't you will tear the plastic versus cutting the plastic, that will also make the threads oversized.
Then if your doing a blind hole don't force it in, if there is some resistance then bring it out and take off the plastic that is on the tapthreads, I use an old toothbrush to take the material off the tap. Then I use a motor spring using the hook side to take out any material stuck in the hole and then run the tap through again!
If you do all this your threads will be perfect, and even aluminum screws will go in nice and hold to it's maximum potential without stripping. Last, once the screw bottoms out, I go another 1/4 turn max and thats it!
I forgot one last thing!
Get the largest Tamiya pinion you can find, then open up the hole so the tap will fit and then lock the tap in with the existing set screw and you have a perfect tapping thumb screw holder, this is my own idea and it works great!!
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:36 PM   #3356
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Max! You got to much down time... go back to sleep!

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
Tapping holes can be a pain but if done right you will never have to worry about a stripped thread. REALLY! Instead of using a steel screw, spend the $4.00 for a 3mm tap and drill. Most hobby stores have them.
The trick to tapping is making sure to tap straight. In other words as you start to tap don't lean to one side or the other,if not you wil. make the threads oversized and slopy and that will also cause the screw to strip.
Hold the tap nice and straight for at least 2 turns, I try to make a half a turn then rotate the part 90degrees so I see that I'm tapping to make sure I'm not leaning in the other direction then after 2 turns the tap will follow the hole.
Oh, I also use a drop of oil before tapping, if you don't you will tear the plastic versus cutting the plastic, that will also make the threads oversized.
Then if your doing a blind hole don't force it in, if there is some resistance then bring it out and take off the plastic that is on the tapthreads, I use an old toothbrush to take the material off the tap. Then I use a motor spring using the hook side to take out any material stuck in the hole and then run the tap through again!
If you do all this your threads will be perfect, and even aluminum screws will go in nice and hold to it's maximum potential without stripping. Last, once the screw bottoms out, I go another 1/4 turn max and thats it!
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:44 PM   #3357
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Talking RE:

Can't sleep!!!!!
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:41 PM   #3358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
You guys are a lot more forgiving than the guys over on the xray form.
Well we should be, our hop ups, spares, and accesories cost about 1/4 of what they pay!

If I paid $6-7 for one C-Hub, I would demand perfection too!
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:54 PM   #3359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower
spend the $4.00 for a 3mm tap and drill. Most hobby stores have them.
max...where did you buy yours? id like to pick one up. thanks dude!
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Old 03-07-2006, 03:23 PM   #3360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Well we should be, our hop ups, spares, and accesories cost about 1/4 of what they pay!

If I paid $6-7 for one C-Hub, I would demand perfection too!
Well now, for my Xray T2 to run stock and 19t foam, I had to get an extra,
Ah, wow! it came with everything and a good set of foams, well I did change the springs. It did come with all the different susp blocks, carbide diff balls......
I know, I did pay $375 for it, go ahead, SLAM me.
Wish I could have said that when I had my 415's or my currentTA05's.
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