MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Someone asked b4 but do you actually have the machined diff halves?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

since everyones talking about diffs I have one question and one thing to offer>

I have foundin 100% of instances when I buy a used car that the diffs have 20x more grease on the rings and balls then is required and so they are all super tightened down, but the diffs still slip!! Some one else said just a little dab in each hole is all that it takes and its true!! My diffs are smooth as can be, last a long time and I LOAD the thrust with as much black grease or AW grease (I am still deciding which is better) as I can pack in there, but only a drop in every hole for the diff balls. Then after that its about being patient and slowly working the diffs tighter and counter-roatating, tighter, counter rotate and NEVER drive a lap on the track with a loose diff.

Now my question, are the stock and precision diffs holding up to modified?

I am reserving my Novak GTB and 5.5 Velociti for the Xenon TA05. Car will have dbl diffs since I plan rubber or foams on carpet with this car.

madjack

iTrader: (28)

I had the stock diffs fail with silver cans...material is so soft and they spread causing the universal to pop out.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

NICE!!! I think the one I am getting comes with two precision diffs. I just need the EvoIV kingpin ballstuds (on b/o of course) and its ready for foam action. Ive never driven modified with rubber tires-It should be a riotous and Ugly first outing!!

Steven Key

iTrader: (7)

I have a TA05 with the light weight suspension. The car works great but the driver is a little off.

The problem I am having is the suspension shafts seem to bend very easily. With only a minor hit they get a slight bend and it adversly effect the handling of the car.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any ideas for a fix?

madjack

iTrader: (28)

yep, 53849

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Right now, I'm using all stock diff parts(balls, rings outdrives, etc...) with just a little grease on the balls(using the 'put the grease between your fingers and rub the diff balls between your fingers' method that I use with all my cars). Its just not very smooth. Even when the diffs were first built, I noticed that they weren't exactly the smoothest I had ever felt, and certainly not as smooth as my old F201 diffs.

I'll just start over with new balls and rings and see what that nets me. But like I said, even right out the box, they weren't anything special smoothness/concistency wise, so I'll be surprised if theres any stark improvement.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

I bend severals already, and since my LHS doesn't have Tamiya 49.7mm shaft, I bought Serpent 710 50mm shaft and it fit perfectly. The best part: it's MUCH STRONGER than Tamiya shaft.. HAHA

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Me and my friend both using stock diff in mod race last weekend. His front diff failed in Qualify1 (lucky for him), and my front diff failed in Final3 (in the very last 30sec ). So I would say: use high-precision diff for mod. Don't even try stock diff in mod unless it's only for practice.

Very bad experience for me, my pain is your gain...

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

One last note on diffs. Use ceramic balls and atlas diff covers and your diffs will last twice as long and you can reuse the ceramic balls even after it's time to replace the plates!
Just my 2$

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

If your not running TCS try THESE

But I think These are better ones.............

mrodney

Hey all I just got some 3 racing aluminum diff halfs for my car and they seem pretty nice. They dont use the little retaining clips on the ends, but they use some large plastic covers to help eliminate slop and wear. I do like the precision diffs that tamiya makes but the problem is with the light weight suspension not being as strong as the old one, if I break a c hub or steering knuckle I pop the retaining clip of and crack the diff half, at 15.00 a set it gets expensive. The 3 racing diff halfs are aluminum and the only cost 12.00. I will save my tamiya halfs for tamiya races, and run the aluminum ones for club racing.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, I wouldn't even bother replacing the balls and rings until you get the precision diff because they will become rough quickly as well.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Do they require anything else? LIke different diff bolt or rings or anything?

mrodney

hey ray. No they use all of your tamiya hardware without a problem. I ran them for the 1st time tuesday and had no problems. I got the 12.00 ones of the ebay guy, I don,t see how the 36.00 ones can be that much better.