v0rtex--If you want to get a C12 I would wait just a little longer. I have heard that there will be a Team Edition where everything will be anadized green. Plus Josh has been swamped with orders for kits, and a lot of shops are sold out. Hopefully he will have them out for x-mas though.

I have known Josh for years and he has always been a great guy, and I really respect what he is doing for 1/12.

carpet knife question
 

I am rebuilding my carpet knife and noticed the rear pod is closer to one side of the chassis than the other. Do I bend one arm to make it shorter? Can the ball mounts be adjusted forward or back? How about a starting ride height for carpet?

Reset the rear end alignment by loosening the football shaped graphite piece. Then follow the directions in the book regarding the rear end alignment.

Loosening the football won't change the alignment, it only adjusts the "bind" of the links. Without adjustable side links you can't adjust the rear alignment on a CK. If the rear axle is out of parallel something is bent or broken (link balls, links, link mount holes). Find what is not right and repair/replace it.
O'D

comparing 1/12 and touring1/10
 

Wouild like to ask questions about 1/12 cars. Here in my place nobody runs a 1/12. Im interested because of the recent world championships. how does a 1/12 car compare with touring cars when it comes to speed, drivability, fun, and cost? hope anyone can help. thanks. :) :) :cool: :D

Asking that question on this forum will get you a predjudiced answer, but...1/12th cars are more agile and reactive, somewhat harder to drive, but way more fun (when your car works). The cars are simpler with way fewer parts and 2 less cells, so perhaps cheaper. 1/12th was around long before touring cars and will probably be here after they are gone. You should try one, you'll like it!
O'D

Carpet Knife
 

Hey,

I've got a brand new v3.1 that had been assembled/never run. The wheels/tires that came with the kit wobble like a drunk nun. The fronts more so than the rears, to the point I'd wager the car would be undriveable. Even the truer won't help this lot. Same problem (though not QUITE so bad) with a set of NIP CRC spares. Is this a common problem? Kind of sucks that what I'd figured to be nearly $80 in tires is useless as a diet crouton.

Also, just getting back into RC after 12+ years away. I could see right away how to lower the rear ride height (all these years and we still haven't improved on the RC12L) but I can't see any way to lower the front ride height other than either "truing" the front tires down to nothing or shimming the suspension up off the chassis.

Suggestions?

Scottrik

wobble wobble
 

CRC cars used to come with Jaco tires which have always had problems with straightness. Now they come with CRC tires which I have to say are even worse (at least the fronts are, in my experience). I think TRC wheels are a little better. The only consistantly straight wheels I have found are Yokomos, but you have to buy wheels and mount your own donuts to get the compounds we run here in the US.

You are correct on how to adjust the ride height.
O'D

PS How much does a drunk nun wobble?

Thanks for the answer.Id like to know more about 1/12....What kits can you recommend? what are the other needed equipment to run a 1/12?are 1/12 cars suited to concrete tracks? I have all the electronics....how much more will I spend for a 1/12 car? ;) :D :cool:

Fer cryin' out loud
 

I guess I just can't believe (and certainly not to pick on CRC) that anyone could go to all the trouble to make a "precision racing device" and then expect you to shoe it with such absolute crap. I NEVER had a problem like that with my old Associated 2-holer rears OR fronts. Never.

These are the CRC wheels/tires. The car came with the kit CRC's and a packaged set of CRC's and a packaged set of Jaco. The Jaco's aren't perfect, but they at least look like I could keep the car on the track. I bet the fronts worst fronts have at least 3/16" of radial runout at the rim.

I don't mind gluing and truing my own--I kept my MaxMod truer. Suggestions for a good place to get the Yoke wheels and some donuts? 'Spose I gotta buy the Yoke rubber and throw it away?

Scottrik

PS...if you've ever seen one, a drunk nun wobbles a LOT

the wobbling nun
 

Keep in mind that this is my experience only. I should also say that I've been running Jaco's for years and most of the wheels have been ok (usable). It seems like lately they've gotten worse, though.
I bought bare Yokomo wheels from a LHS who ordered them for me from Yokomo USA. The capper is that Jaco no longer sells donuts, so maybe TRC or BSR. It's all the same stuff.
I used to use a Max Mod also-Fred Flintstone's tire truer-but it worked great. I use a Hudy now-very 21st century!
O'D
And stop giving that nun the hooch.

1/12th kits
 

Most of the 1/12th cars out right now are good cars. For availability of kits and parts you can't beat the new Associated 12L4. Other t-bar cars that work well are the CRC T-Fource, Yokomo YRX12, and the PRC Quad 12 (My Fav.) 1/12th cars work on asphalt and probably concrete ,too; they don't like bumpy tracks much.
If you really want to set up a 1/12th car properly you need a tire truer. All your other RC equipment will work. You'll want small electronics-mini servo, reciever and esc. Most kits sell in the $200 range.
O'D

Scottrik - I suggest you try John's BSR for tires. I am rather surprised to hear from you that the CRC products are not to your standards, but I can assure you that the products from John's BSR will be.

Thanks
 

Thank you OD. you are very helpful. i hope that i will be able to buy a kit soon and convince the others here to buy a kit too.Will probably ask you again for some more things soon. :cool: :nod: :smile: :D :)

info please
 

Any info on the Trinity SwitchBlade 12? It looks pretty interesting and i can get one maybe. Any info is appriecated thanks.

Jon