Well, like I said, it could be some aftermarket axle that I haven't seen, or maybe the 12LC had that configuration (I've never seen one up close). I have never seen any 12L with that thrust bearing on the end all greased up like that. I can't imagine someone actually running something like that since it's exposed.

Hopefully someone that knows will chime in and it's just some different setup that I'm not aware of and you have all the needed parts.

Seems I can't be missing more than maybe a bearing and a few washers in there. If I can get the diff together I will run it as is. I have never finished better than last in a race anyway, I don't think having a 12l4 will help me much. I just like going around the track, but I would like to be able to control the car.

I've got 3 to chose from as well :lol:

You guys feel free to email me what cars you are trying to unload, but like you said, I don't want to drop much more into this one. I just want to get it together (basically the diff) and run. It doesn't need to be hopped up or the latest and greatest, just go in a straight line when I need it to.

YGPM amigo

Ok man, I just pulled out the 12LW, will you come clean my basement now? :lol:

The 12LW diff is rather different in that the blue washers and other washers in my photos are replaced by thick machined aluminum washers. The one difference between mine and yours is the assembly on the right rear outside. Mine has a machined aluminum cone type washer with steel cone washers inside it, and then the same nylon type nut on the end where it's threaded. I think this may be where your problem lies in addition to the diff rings not being secured.

Sorry I was thinking they were the same, these cars are OLD. You having to cut the ballcup on the shock was correct. Also, I know it's a stupid question, but have you checked and set the tweak on the car?

24610
I was digging through some old 12th scale parts and I found a right side hub that looks like the one you have but I cant remember where it comes from. that definately is not an associates axle setup. all of thiers have the threaded end to them some were threaded on both ends. I think its a bolink or a delta. I like the thrus bearing idea it should work well like that. Maybe try cleaning it all up and sand the rings good and glue them on the hubs with a little silocone.(sp) You know rubber gasket stuff if ya want the technical term. Maybe the balls are bad as well. It looks like all of the parts are there to make it work. If it keeps coming loose try a TC3 diff spring on the end if it fits.

don't know if I missed it but it looks like you have a TM diff. it was made so you could take off the wheel without screwing up the diff setting before the stealth diffs came out.

Nope, none of us came up with that. Was there a problem with keeping them tight?

Ike
 

Hey dude how are things going? Heah i ran from around '84-'88 and only a few club races and one major race in '89 and then was out of RC completely until '99.

I did pretty well on a local level (i was the classic "budget" racer) but never knew more than a 1/3 of what i have learned in the past 5yrs. The sad thing is that i still seem to be behind on some important things... but i'm learning. LOL!

Traceracing, Fast-ho-cars
 

Traceracing- something that i have found out about dumping and not dumping is this: If Blackstock runs 43 laps and someone else runs 42 laps and you run 39 laps you need to make sure that you have enough juice left at let's say a 30amp discharge that would allow you to go at least another 2.5 laps (say 28sec.).

If you come back with 7-15 sec than you WOULD dump if you were on pace in this example. I think often people don't realize that not dumping in their race is not the same as getting close or on pace and not dumping.

Also, it seems that the average motor used for carpet racing in the states here with the big boys tend to be 10-9 turns (sometimes 8's) geared around 22-25/100 with 1.85" -1.87" rear tires with a tab and a half worth of timing.
--------------------

Fast-ho-cars- WOW!, i have never seen 450s but i have heard that they exist. I've also heard/read that 1.20's (voltage) at 30amp discharge also exsist (World's) but i've never seen anything like them.

Do you know any more about this diff, like maybe who TM is or where I could find information.

TM Racing is still in bussiness but I doubt they make the diff any more.
http://www.tm-rc-racingcomponents.com/

as for batteries I have a pack of 1.19 cell and I have heard about the 1.20 batteries also from reliable sources and I have seen last year at cleveland indoor champs 466 batteries and heard of 480, I know the 466 were team main packs for one of the "B" drivers so you would figure the "A" drivers have better.

i have seen those #'s on packs matched by Orion or AE, but you have to remember they use LAVCO equipment.

the number i mentioned were by various matchers using CE equipment

*many things done by matchers can cause #'s to vary because of:
charge rates 5 vs. 6 amps
zapping
other trade secret processes
temperature of room
temperature of cells prior to starting process
temperature of equip, so it is the same for each test
software being used (CE)
cutoffs used
checking recalibrating equipment regularly or the lack of

etc. etc.

Dave - hold on with that discussion about the batteries. I just can't agree with your description of run time and what is needed. You are leaving the impression that you throttle and steer equal to Mike B. Well, that isn't even close. Let's look at this a little more realistically. Your lap is somewhere around 40 feet longer than Mike's. How do I know? I stood by the track and I watched. Also, remember when I yelled at you that you were using too much throttle? It was true. You were ripping on that thing like it was stock. Mike B. will be 3 laps better just by driving that 40 foot shorter lap. Those two things will get you close.

Now please don't get the idea that I am ripping on you. I am trying to help you out. You have improved from earlier in the year, but you have some to go to make your goal. At least I think your goal is to run equal to Mike B. So my recommendation after seeing you run is this, "be quick and efficient." You don't need that blinding speed.

Here is another comparison. Look back at the effort by Jacob Pritchard at the Nats. He qualified second and won one of the qualifying rounds. He was running some batteries that were from me. They were 433 run time at 30 amps discharge on CE equipment. He made time easily. He was close to Mike in qualifying because he ran a lap that was close to the same length as Mike's lap. Good luck dude, and keep working on it. You just might get there!;)