That's why I love ya Mike!!! BTW He wouldn't be having this problem if he'd bought the "right" link car!! :lol:

I agree that the body has little to due with Mid corner to exit steering in Low Speed situations, but in high speed cornering the body plays a BIG role all the way through the corner. The set-up he's using sounds pretty close to what I ran on my Knife when I ran one, the only difference being the body, and the damper fluid. I ran the Proto Nissan because the Proto Bentley felt unstable.

softening up the car will make it turn in a little quicker yes but it will plant the car in the rear comming out of the corner you are complaining of an oversteering problem exiting the corners arent you!

The rear is planted coming out of the corner, it just feels very twitchy coming out of the corners in the lower speed sections. High speed corners are no problems (sweepers are perfect).

Blake

then try a little toe out if you dont have any, also narrow the rear track with if you can to get rid of that twitchyness use less castor ( standup a little) and see what happens!

off-topic-kind-of-isnt it amazing how these little 12th scale cars can be so demanding to get right-but once you dial it into your track and especially your driving style-WHAM!!! The most rewarding RC cars to drive.

An easy to drive 12th scale car that also carries its corner speed can be hard to dial in sometimes-even for the best drivers. Look at the Birds-A lot of GReat drivers in 12th stock-but Smyka's car was just flat out faster than everyone elses that weekend.

Gotta love 12th scale.

Ray

dr_hfuhuhurr,

Yes do what Hector said and try some toe out, like 1/2 degree. That will give it a bit more turn-in, but it won't steer as much mid to corner exit. You could also try a little less camber in the front.

ray i whish you could try my quad twelve.
just wish i had some of you chickeys speed!

I run the L3 in stock with a Yokomo body.I find it has a slight advantage over the Nissan body for mid to high speed cornering but no noticable difference low speed, I do however find the car to be twitchy on the straightaway and the toe is set to 0 deg.I am wondering what are some guys thoughts on the steel T plates and what advantage/ disadvantage they have.I am considering one.
I find a slight advantage to running the IRS rear lowering plates as I can run my tires at 45mm rear giving me a bit less rotating mass but chunking seems to be a problem more so than not.
Can someone tell me if there is any advantage to running a seperate receiver pack eliminating BEC in stock and 19 turn or would the difference be un-noticable.

I dont know about that-I think I showed you how to build a pretty fast and VERY efficient motor for 12th scale at the Birds!! YOU just need to actually charge your batteries and make it to your qualifiers-DOH!!!

YOur Quad 12 looked dialed. Bring it to the Nats and put it in the show!!! :)

Ray

any of you have problems with the molding on the AE front arms? me and my friends were comparing it and notice that they are not semetrical at all. it didnt really affect handling since ive been driving like that for a long time. but just wondering if theres anything besides using the old school front a arms cuz i hate them.

another thing is how to take away the push of the car? i have a CRC 6 pack with .020 springs in the middle, silver middle spring, CRC graphite T plate which is a bit harder on the up and down flex but softer on the side to side flex. im running purple fronts and grey rears! i tried saucing more in the front, helps in the first half of the race, then traction wears off a little.

IRS makes a set.

If you do some web searches for oval parts you can find 10* machines aluminum caster blocks as well as 0*. I think GPM might make a set as well.

Is that the ultra-heavy silver spring (extremely hard to compress by hand)? If its the softer one you should go up to like a gold or even red center spring. That should help. Run a regular .075 T-bar, the softer side to side flex from the graphite could be giving you a push. You could also try the silva spring steel t-plate. Also what traction compound are you using? You should be using Paragon, the Niftech stuff, or TQ Max 8 min (red).

dr_hfuhuhurr - As far as damper tube dampening:
More dampening = less entry steering and more midcorner/exit steering
Less dampening = more entry steering and less midcorner/exit steering

Just finished up my dynamic front end, used the IRS kingpins and pivot balls and actually got some binding, used my mill to ream out the pivot balls a hair and it feels good now. Shooters had my chassis pieces on backorder, so I'm still waiting for their arrival, unfortunately the car wont get turned red until after the california carpet champs :cry:

i think those springs are hard, they arent that easy to press. i use paragon wintergreen smelling traction compound