Ditch the side springs on the CRC T bars cars and run tweak screws. Thats what McMahon did on his Six Pack and now his T-Fource.

If you run Mod run dbl pink fronts and pink rears with a .075 AE T-bar all 3 screws in back and a green center spring on the shock. Losi Med hydradrive fluid in the damper tubes.

For stock run purple fronts and white rears with a .075 AE T-bar 2 outer screws in back and a green or silver (more steering) center spring on the shock. Losi Med hydradrive fluid in the damper tubes.

Up front run .020" springs shimmed os the bottom e clip just slides on with no spring tension...i.e. no preload.

The AE front end is crooked....just shim it for equal caster. Crooked or not it works great.

Just wondering where are you guys getting the hydra drive fluid, I havent seen it in a loooong time...

I don't know where to get hydradrive fluid, but CRC has their own and it coms in thick or not so thick.

New Peak/Orion motors
 

have any of you tried to fit one of these new Peak Vantage (what I just got) or the Orion motors in a 12th scale yet? It's some interesting soldering...I'm actually thinking of soldering a battery bar or something to the negative lead to make it easier...

Anyone else have the same experience?

Asphalt set-up
 

Where's a good place to start with a T-plate car.
Springs:
T-plate:
Camber:
Tires:

Any one have a good start set-up?

Re: New Peak/Orion motors
 

actually it's pretty easy... just take the brush wire and put it on the bottom side of the brush holder then solder both leads to the top of the flange for the brush holder. I ran my 10x1 orion at the region 3 on road race and if I would of had the light springs it would of made time and not dumped so bad. the fun part was the wheelie I made down the straight when I tapped the outside wall. I'll see if I can get a picture of it later when I get home.

even frank himself ditched the side springs on his t-fource at cleveland.
http://www.nashrcracer.com/cleveland...astshots14.htm

On the Bloody Knife, how do you tighten the center pivot ball (the one in the football CF piece)?

It came loose twice this weekend. Should I use a steel or Ti screw and loctite it?

:) Hy everybody, i'm new to your 12th forum and i want you help to choose the good stuff to do The Final Championship in Europe.I race since 11 years but i never ran a 12th.I don't worry for my driving i race 1/8thIC and Pro10...If possible drop me the good car where i have not to change all the car on a accident

Thank

I use a steel screw and loctite that puppy down. Hasn't come loose since then although I do check it after every run.

Thanks nashrcracer...I'll try that. A wheelie with a 1/12th scaler? I don't want to think about how that ended....LOL :eek:

For a link car, most run CRC carpet knife 3.2 or SpeedMerchant Rev3. Probably faster for stock.

For a t-bar car it seams to be the IRS rug rat, based on the Associated 12L3. Better for mod too.

Diff - either CRC or IRS large ring for both mod and stock.

Pivot balls - run either the niftech bronze ones or the teflon impregneted aluminum, both for the t-plate (if that's your car) and the front end on the "new style" parts.

There is some debate about the front ends. Some swear by the "old skool" front end. No reactive caster, but the general concensus is that it will not tweek, is more robust, and is more consistent, run to run.

I run the "new style" reactive caster. I feal it is more consistent fealing in and out of the corner. I've not had a problem with tweek, but then I'm not a top tier racer in 1/12th. It also needs more care and maintenance. It's not as adjustable as they say either - to get the caster the same left to right you need to shim them differently. Apparently the Caster blocks are not well molded.

Motors - depends on track and class. Monster for stock is probably the best starting point.

ESC - I like the LRP Quantum Comp, small and very smooth. Some run the Novak GT7 with success. Although you will have a different selection in Europe. I think GM has a good reputation.

Bodies - Parma speed 8, CEFX, Ascari, etc are all popluar for stock. The speed 8 more for mod.

A lot depends on if you will run mod or stock.

Thanks a lot Sands
I'd like race in stock but in Europe .we use only 6 cell and that enought...$$$$$$, sino if i run modified, it's just for the fun because i can't expest win front of Spashet and other best europeen driver. But it's my way so i'll take it.
In Europe for the ESC,don't worry LRP is very popular and more than GM.
But the car you advised to me, i've a little blem because the CRC do not popular here because it's fast but strongly difficult to set and we don't know the speedmarchant here.
I work for become a distributor of US car as part AE and losi....
But i take long on your advise but if you can help me more on the choice for the car,i'll appreciate:nod:

not as good as Blackstock did when he hit a warped board at the snowbirds. he just didn't count for a lap since he did the wheelie over the wire for the lap counting system.

I stressed my 6 pack chassis that I prepped back in november for cleveland. spent 2 hours sanding and milling on the chassis only to kill it as I came down into a cart wheel at the end of the straight. didn't break the tplate though.

for parts in europe I would suggest Corally. it's still a great car in the right hands. the other option is to find out what is running at the local track and hobby shops. being the only one with a certian car can be a pain when you break a part that you have to order to get back in the race.