DaveL
 

DaveL- no offence taken. :cool:

It seems that you completely missed the point of what i was trying to write however. I was simply pointing out with an illustration that not dumping in your race and not dumping based upon Race Pace can be two different things. Personally when i come back from a run i check to see how much time i have left and then i divide that by the amount of time i am off pace. As long as i am close then i feel fine.

By the way at the Nats i never dumped and had one of the most "pushy" cars that i have ever driven. And i tried everything i knew making major setup changes before every run to get rid of that condition and never really did, this is part of what i mean by i still have a lot to learn. Even through to the mains i was still getting info from Doeseck and Cyrul to help things get better, still learning. :o

I think you would agree that my car worked much better in the lower bite conditions the weekend before when Rott and i went 42 laps.:sneaky:

24601 Diff Problems
 

After looking at the picture of your axle/diff assembly, it appears you may have some missing parts.

Starting with the axle working from the diff ring flange on the axle, out to the cap head screw, the order should be…

1. Diff Ring – preferable notched
2. Flangeless bearing – unless axle has shoulder for the spur gear to ride on.
3. Spur Gear
4. Diff Ring – again preferable notched
5. Flanged bearing, providing the wheel hub is recessed to accept a flanged bearing
6. Wheel Hub
7. Flanged bearing
8. Washer for cap screw
9. Cap screw

It is very important that the washer on the cap screw only touches the inner race of the outside flanged bearing. An improperly assembled dif will cause the car to dart suddenly most times to the left but not always.

The other thing I noticed in the picture of your car was that you have the old school front end on the car but the steering servo is mounted at an angle. Mount the servo flat on the chassis using MIP servo tape, part number 1044 as this is the next best thing to bolting the servo down. You will have to reverse the servo saver to the top, making sure that the bottom of the servo saver does not contact the chassis in any way. Also make sure that the tie rods are slightly angled back from the servo saver to the pick up point on the spindles.

As far as moving your rear body posts further back, a 12L3 rear cross brace should fit which would allow you to move the rear body posts up and back. I would then grind off the old body post bosses on both sides of the chassis as this will be the first thing to rub in the corners and unload the rear tire.

If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to email me.

Darnold

I think what Dave L is getting at is if you do as many laps Mike B you MUST therefore by default be driving the same distance per lap, therefore your total race distance traveled as seen by your car will be the same, even though you have more laps. This means your batteries will have pushed your car the same distance you are just lapping more efficiently. This is 90% of getting good times in 12th. The alternative would be to drive more laps but drive that extra 40' or so per lap which would be either impossible or scarily impressive.

24601:
This is T.M. and we still have the Phase-2 Diff's available.
Give me a call if you need more info. on it.

12L4
 

Any word on ship date for the 12L4? The AE website says this week...

Phil Matthews (patient, but anxious, 12L4 pre-orderer).

t-bars
 

What's the word/opinions on graphite t-bars? Anyone?

Eagle gets my point. I think Dave A did too, but has another thing to analyze. That's fine if he gets better from it. But Dave, you gave away the answer in your last post. You said that you had a very pushy car and made run time. I am not surprised. The pushy situation MADE you get off the throttle. Runtime is then "no problem." Another thing to ponder is this. Using so much throttle will make almost any car "pushy." And when your car works on "low bite conditions", you are off the throttle. My point still applies. Good luck.

Re: 24601 Diff Problems
 

Thanks for the diff info, just from memory I am not sure if it is going to work exactly as you said, but I will look tonight. I also emailed T.M. to get info from them.

As far as the servo goes, I was under the impression that flat mounting was best for outdoor tracks and angled for carpet. I also know that this car came with an old school front originally (though it wasn't old school then), and had the mounts. I am planning on switching to my Hitec 225 MG servo, but what would be the advantage to mounting it flat?

Hey Peter... I raced with you this last week at Mikes.. My Rev3 had the servo mounted on angled mounts and I switched to putting it flat on the chassis, and the difference is definitely noticable. My car was more stable and not as twitchy. Much easier to drive.

I also use the old skool front end because it works better on smoother tracks.

I would say try the servo flat and see if you like it. I know I do.

See this week...

Clint

I also have a new style front end if you want to try that.. You can have it....

Re: Re: 24601 Diff Problems
 

Usually you mount the servo flat with the "old school" (ie; Associated 12e - 12i) on carpet. It does seem to quite the car down. But I have run the 12e - 12i front end with the servo flat and angled. Same with the dynamic strut front end- the servo flat and angled. The reason you run the angled servo mounts is to minimize bump steer.

It really is all a matter of preference and your driving style. While someone can give you a set up for your car, it will only get you in the ball park. Understanding your skill, driving style and what the car does when you make changes to it, is the key. The best thing I can recommend is test, test, test. Practice, practice, practice.

I might take you up on that. I won't be there this week. I have to be somewhere else. I hope to be there again soon. Racing is always hit or miss for me as I live over an hour from the track. Practice time is almost non-existant.


I will mount the new servo flat and see what happens.

That's cool. I will have it with me and the next time I see you, I will give it to you.

Car setup is all about the driver. There are few instances where the same setup fits more than one driver but not usually.

I like my cars stable and smooth.. I hate twitchy cars....

That is what I liked about the Corally, it was easy to drive. But I also never seem to have even close to the speed of everyone else. I am getting rid of the Corally because of parts issues, but it was a good car. I just want to drive this one for a while. I might be needing to get an off-road too since my son is racing that, but I haven't decided yet.

Any other setup advice?

I also think my rollout was wrong. What are you running for Mike's? (stock, of course)

I am running a Monster motor using a 1.8 roll out... This past weekend was my first race in 1/12th scale (I usually run off road) and my car didn't have good speed until I trued the tires. once I got them down a bit, the car really picked up!

BTW - I have 2 off road cars for sale, XXX-T MFE and a XXX Bk2.. ;)