What does changing bump steer do to the handling of a 12th scale car ?

Thanx.

Thanks Mike, good luck in Cleveland this week!

Snowplow push
 

Stormperson,
Thanks for the fix, my ck is not puahing now. At your insistance that I had a bind or rub I disassambled the car to find the "football" had shifted to the left (cocked) it must have happened at the end of last years carpet season . I reassamdled the car to find that the push has magicly dissappered and now handles like a dream with tons of side bite and terrific corner speed. Also the low speed handling has become more calm and predictable. Now I have to adjust my driving style to a more racable car.

Foams diameter?
 

Raced my 12th scale for the first time after 14 years of absent, it was a blast........however, I was using a brand new set of foams that I didn't TRUE for the RACE diameter, because i have no idea what is the BEST diameter for the 12th scale...

Can someone tell me...? My TRC were 54mm (rear) when it was new...at the end of the race, it goes down to 52mm......however, all the fast guy are runnning something thinner..........will that be 46mm?

I know that has to do with the gears too(the roll out thingy)....but I just want to know, what diameter of new R/F foams that I should true down to....? With the new foams, the body has clearence problem too, especially the front wheel when it trun all the way to the left and right.

Based on suggestions from more experienced drivers than me (Mike D), I true my tires to: (rear 48.5mm front 44mm).

I just got the new lowered bulk heads from Calandra and now I can run my rear tires even longer. BTW, $29 for the new CRC rear bulk heads is a great deal.

Thanks.........thats all I need to know. I was playing cheap, try to save foams, but "Cheap" costed me a 3rd place finish, and I knew the tires are the key...

Locking both left/right tires while turning does not help (Tires rubbing the body when it turns....stupid me.)

Actually the first 6 or 7 mm wears off pretty quickly. When you get 'em down to 47 mm or so you'll see the rate of wear start to slow down.

Bump steer gives the car more steering as the suspension compresses. This is a bad thing for a 1/12. Ideally you want the wheel to stay in its current position before and after the suspension is compressed.

I true my tires down to 1.8 for the fronts and 1.9 for the rears (in inches). It makes a HUGE difference, also make sure to round them so they dont chunk or traction roll. If you run them out of the box your car will be really scary to drive since your sidewalls will give you too much grip. Also If your tires are really small dont expect the car to handle as well, since your shore rating is no longer accurate because there is not enough foam. So watch out with the lowered bulkheads. Normally I would not suggest running your tire down that low if you can help it.

I've run some extremely small tires before and I've found that on SUPER high bite tracks it makes the car more consistent and actually let's it flow better.

Then let say......a good rear tires diameter (for race) is like 46mm to 48mm diameter range, and 43mm to 45mm front....?
Then........what is too small...? 35mm rear and 33mm front? Thanks

When you see the color of the rim where there use to be tire then I would say you have got your moneys worth from that set of skins.

So are you saying I cannot run my 12th scale with RIMS only...? Come on....1mm of foams still foams, I did that on my gas car while running a 2.4 hour endurance race before (not realized that untill the rim broke off into 10,000 pieces)....:D

Normally for club racing...

If you are on the lowest ride height (I think #4 carriers) and under 3mm of ride height you probably want to buy some new tires.

Storm-
been gone a few days but yes, I broke the new all black SM tubes, and so did another driver at our last race. I admit it takes my kind of talent, but I was surprised how easily they broke this time-like just as easily as the old ones.
And I've still never bent a CRC tube, not in the way you describe or otherwise.
O'D