thanks john_s, I'll have a look for that.

Ed

Gearing
 

Hey Guys,

I was wondering, how would you gear a Cameleon II on a 12. I know where to gear it on a touring car but i'm not sure if the same holds true when it come to 12 because of weight/drag/tire diameter differences.

Thanks in advance,
R.

Re: servo position
 

Now that I have to tape batteries in my Rev. 4, I've grown to love it so much I tape 'em in my PRO 4 too!!!

Well, had my first run with a 12th tonight, have to say it was really really good. These babys fly! (admitadly was using a 12x2 :D ).

However... there were a few interesting points.

1) I need a new rear axle, seems like the one i have on the car is split... so for the first few runs, after a slight knock the diff would go loose.... please I have ceramic balls in there now, at least they don't overheat!
2) My D4 is knackered... next time I'll put my Orion V2 12x3 in... should be better
3) Found the car very easy to tune... even with the tweak springs. easy to do with my tweak station.
Started out with a the kit standard soft rear spring and 30wt oil, with white side springs and hard damper oil. Car was way to pushy... understeered everywhere.
Followed a guide from the CRC site, and went to red side springs, and copper centre spring. Was so much better, car steered wherever I wanted. Quite impresse I got it to handle well, despite having no previous experience of the car... can only get better from here.

Next time I'll be using it will be in two weeks, fingers crossed it'll be more reliable (ended up not actually finishing any rounds). Good times.

Later
Ed

JohnB: When you mounted your servo flat, what angle are your steering turnbuckles at compared to the ballstuds on your servo saver? Are they at a 90 degree angle, or at a larger or smaller angle I dont know if you know what i am talking about, but was just wondering what angle they were at, and if the angle made a difference in ackerman or something. Mine are a little more than 90 degrees becasue I mounted the servo farther forward, or does the angle mess with bumpsteer?

What is the effect of making the rear pod above or below level with the chassis?( i dont know if I worded that right)
I am looking for a little bit more low speed steering and was wondering if maybe making my rear pod above, or below level with the chassis would solve the problem.

there was also something else I have been meaning to ask. I am having run time issues and was wondering what to do as far as charging and tuning wise. I charge at 5.5 amps, mainly becasue our race program flows so fast that I never have enough time to fully charge a pack at 4 amps, which would probobly give me some more run time...maybe not a lot, but a little. Is there anything I can do motor wise such as spring tuning? like softer or harder? I am currently runnng purple on positive, and green on negative for my monster stock pro.

Here she is, ready for tomorrow. Isn't she pretty?

Chris.

metal base for T bar
 

Hi,

I noticed that some 1/12 from japanese website got this solid
metal base to replace the first pivot of the T bar. ie... the T-bar
seems to be bolted onto the metal base instead of having treak
screw.

Please advise where to get those.

Very nice! Good luck tomorrow and to all the stockton peeps. I won't be able to make it tomorrow but I'll hopefully be racing with you guys soon by next month. My War Hammer 12 is losing patience and I will unleash him soon. :sneaky: :lol:

Had a great run this evening! Only three of us tonight in SoCal, but we had a blast.

Main was close all the way through - all three of us on the main lap.

Traction was tricky for some reason - for nearly all classes it seemed to come and go. The 1/10th scales were having fits - we'd go lose then have plenty of traction and then go loose again. Wierd.

I put newer fronts on and didn't cut them down. I wanted to have more front in case the traction went to pot again. Rears were good sized as well - I wanted the sidewall. Not sure if it helped, but it felt good.

I did a lot of four-wheel drifting around the sweepers - which was fun. Running a 10x2 is a blast.

I ended up 2nd by about 10 feet. Third was inches behind me.

:D

Switch Blade;
My assumption would be this (based on my 1:10th experience);
If you mount your servo more forward this will affect the ackerman, whilst the vertical postion would affect bump steer.
The idea would be is to get the steering links level, as this eliminates bump steer.
With regard to forward sweep, a little forward is good, as when the car is on full lock, the outer link will be straight. I'm not compeletely sure how it affects the ackeman (always get a little confused with that one)... someone else ahould be able to tell you.

HiH
Ed

Switchblade,
 

I find a lighter center spring will bring more low speed steering.

As far as the rear pod, it should hang down a mm or two when the car is picked up. It should be levil when the car is on the track loaded. I don't mess with this, look for traction some where elese. A lightert center spring will give more rear traction too.

Ride height is important for balance. small changes make a big difference.

As far as run time, you can take a little off the trailing edge of the brushes, but with 3300s you shouldn't have a problem.

You could drop one on the pinion, or

If its mod, back off the timing a little and gear a little taller. This might help too.

Have fun

Battery Question
 

I had another learning experience last night... I was told I needed to "maintain" my batteries which includes discharging my batteries after a run so I purchased a Novak Smart Tray. I was told to cycle my 2 Fusion packs last night to be ready for Sunday. So I did... sort of. I put the first pack on there and it got very hot very quick, like 30 seconds, and the lights went out right away. I was concerned but I know that batteries get hot when discharged and 1 of the packs was low. So I put the second pack on there and the same thing happened except that one of the cells erupted (that is the best discription of what happened) and made a big mess all over my bench. Now I know that 1 of the packs was almost fully charged because my main was rained out last week and my car was ready. It looks like the same cell on both packs was damaged, 1 much wosre than the other.

I'm sure they were in there right and it was set for .9v. What did I do wrong?

Jag,

Something seriously wrong there. Yes cells do get hot during discharge but not during equalising. I don't have a smart tray so I'm not sure what happened but it sounds like you shorted your cells somehow. It also sounds like they were not discharged first. I'd suggest you talk to a local "pro" and show him what you did. Whatever it was, don't do it again until you find out.

Chris.

Pretty fine! But...

I don't see any banana plugs!?! What's up with that? Are you hard wiring now?!?