grump,

Sounds like you have pretty much picked up the same setup as me...

I went with the CRC 3.1 red after looking at the Corally SP12M and the Rev3...the Corally was cool for it's simplicity of setup...but parts availability seemed questionable outside of 1 local track here...and I have a preference of stick packs instead of saddles...even though the corally doesn't require a long wire..

The decision to go CRC over Rev3 was based on the requirement of purchasing tires...the CRC came with the proper setup for our local tracks, the lowered pods...to get more life out of the tires...and the fact that they greatly outnumber the Rev3's in my local area...so I get better setup and parts support.

Strangely enough though...the top drivers.....keep experimenting with different cars...new cars, old cars..lots of different things...and they're still the top drivers no matter what chassis they use.

I had a bunch of different people point me towards the JR Z3550..and that is the servo I ended up picking up...not too pricey..but performs well...I'm told (stil building my kit)...:weird: ...

Yes one of the reasons for picing the crc was parts availability.
Also It seamed like I could tune the front more.
Now I am new to this so dont jump on me too hard.
Keep the responses coming.
Leaning toward airtronics 94145 for servo.

I tried my L3 last weekend and I want to do more 12th scale this winter..Is the purple/grey tire combo still ok?? Can I use TRC tires with stock L3 hubs?

tuure- Yes and Yes. If you run mod you might want to run double pink fronts, however for stock its a little too much scrubb in the corner and you can acheive the same steering with a dynamic strut front end.

grump- The only adjustment you can make on a dynamic strut that you really would actually do are front springs and maybe reactive vs. static castor blocks, but very doubtful. On the old school you can adjust caster as well as front springs. Before you say "wait!" let me explain:

-the strut front end is molded very poorely. In order to make sure the castor is equal on both sides it is very common to have to use lets say two shims in the back on one side and one shim front and one shim back on the other side. So you really cant adjust castor because you already maxed out the adjustment on one arm trying to make it even with the other. I have heard that CRC machines their own dynamic strut peices so thats why maybe when you look at their driver's cars it might appear different. However, obviously they are NOT included in any of their kits.

Also i cannot emphisize enough how much work it is to correctly build one of these front ends... Normally out of the box everything binds, so you need to ream out pretty much all of the pivot points, polish all of the metal pieces (i actually had to dremel some of the upper arm hingepin every once a while to get it to work smoothly), and properly set caster (using an RPM camber guage just look at the kingpin from the side). However, they do not stay well build for that long and require alot of maitence, also they get out of tweak and other fun stuff when you hit things, its not a good front end at all for someone just starting out in 12th scale, the old style front end is so much simplier, easier, and more consistant, and has just as many things available to tune as you could ever want or need.

As far as parts, the stuff you break on a 12th scale is normally stuff that AE makes, not CRC or Speedmerchant. You dont break a chassis (Sometimes if you dont prep it right you might split it a little, however that can be repaired with super and a clamp), or any parts that are specific to one car. As far as lowered bulkheads, you arent doing yourself a favor. The tire needs so much foam on the tire to be accurately classified at that shore rating, if there is not enough foam it will not be a grey anymore, but something much harder.

I am sorry if i missed some things... But i have posted on this topic ALOT over the past few months, however I realize its impossible almost to use the search feature to find stuff since the thread is so long, lol.

xxxgrumpxxx: My first 1/12th car was the CK. I raced it during the winter on our local indoor carpeted track, and it was an enjoyable experience for me. Although, I didn't expect to do well just starting out in 1/12th I surprised myself and actually won a couple of races, and had a lot of fun. I will be racing 1/12th again this year (after a 1.5 year layoff), and I bought another CK simply because I found the car easy to drive and maintain.

Concerning the servo, I went with the Airtronics 94145Z.

Have Fun!

grump: I'd recommend the servo by KO Propo. I do not have the number with me right now, but I have run both it and the Futaba and must say that the KO is much faster and I think torquier.

As far as servo's there is no question that the KO is the fastest and torqueist, however most people think its way to much (and I am talking abou their factory drivers). You would want to use their servo programmer to tune it down, since in stock its more than enough for mod, and way too much for stock.

Yep some of the dynamic front end parts are whacked right outa the box...I purchased a complete old style front end but have yet to use it as I think I got the dynamic setup pretty good now. I took the 0 & 10 degree upper arm mounts, set them up in the mill and machined them to truth. Also made my own castor shims as I found the OEM ones were up and down by as much as .006 (ie: some were .019, some were .031)

Question: My 12L3 manual and some of people say I should use -1.5 degrees of camber but I have been running about -0.5 and after 4 races my front tires are wearing flat :confused: Why should I change ?

TOO MUCH? Nahhh, the KO 947pds is just right, you'll adjust to the speed rather quickly, AND the precision, and holding power of this servo is SECOND TO NONE. I will never run another servo that's not a KO Digital.

So all I need is a front end, pod plates & diff, t'bar mounts (pivot balls) and misc. screws to hold everything together?

If you could give me a list so that I could price it out I'll look into get funds released from the Treasury Department (wife).

I already have spare assembled front ends, and pod plates & diff.

Thanks,

Eric

I'm very happy with my Multiplex mico digi speed. Although I have never run a KO, so no comparision with that, it is much more accurate than an Airtronics 94145z.

Tower has them as well as limited number of distributors.

Hello,
Just got back into 12th scale and I need some help. I have a Bloody Knife and would like to know:

1. What shock oil and spring should I use for the rear shock?

2. What tire diameter should I start with?

3. What is the body that everyone is running now?

4. What springs and brushes would you recommend for a Monster?


Thanks so much

Eric,
I'll send you a PM with more info.

D.P.

grump i have used the lrp speed control
(quantum ) in twetlh scale and its ok but hands down the gm sx-9 speed control is a better choice for 12 scale not just the size but it has more punch feel especially
in stock really good for 19t it feels like a mod. i have nothing but praise for the sx-9
it got me in the a main at the nats since then i even went to gm speed controlers in my sedans aswell. v12 wsc edition.
i put my lrp 7.1's in my box for spares
the gm's have more punch.
and your choice for servos the airtronics
9145 is perfect . its more than adecuit for the job.

fike when you get the quad twelve let me know and i send you a pm with a starting set up for the car .