racerdx- The merchant is cheaper to buy and maintain since it doesnt have the pain the @$$ dynamic strut front end. However if you really want to run that front end, you can buy it from AE for like $30-40 for everything (however you might need new servo mounts for it). however it really isnt that much better, and also unless you build it perfectly (which takes alot of time to make sure it all pivots freely and is at the correct angles and such) then it will be worse than the old school, since they bind up and do all sorts of stuff you dont want, very easily.

As far as parts for the old school front end, i would just get an extra set of arms (like $4). and you can get them fron hobby etc as well. also get the black center shock spring (its actually a repacked wolfe spring. its 17lb, the AE black spring is 4lb, so dont buy that one by mistake, like i did, lol)

and yes you have to drill holes in the chassis, but its not that bad, and only takes like 10 minutes. the adjustable servo mounts on the crc can move in a shunt unless you glue everything down.

thanks for the speedy advice!!!<!!!>
 

Salutations Earthlings!
to David Root and Newracer, thanks for the advice!
i don't think i can get a promatch pack here over here in Singapore but i'm sure i can solder a similar pack using loose cells.
so i'll just plug the recv pack into the rx and leave the esc switch off?
i always thought the esc switch prevented the esc from operating....not the rx.... have to try this though! thanks a bunch!
i used to have a kawada m300se which i really enjoyed playing with <mostly because it used stick packs which i could share with my touring car.> but i have since converted to 4 cells.if you guys haven't tried, the kawada tires are an excellent compound if you drive outdoors! they are soft, grippy and last forever!<well... maybe in dog years...>
btw, does anyone have any reccomendations for a good/excellent esc for 4 cell use?
most esc i find on the market are meant for a minimum of 6 cells.
i have found the postings about the front end quite informative and have gotten myself a old skool front end<mostly cause i was too lazy to build the strut front>and am itching to have a go with that.
i do know that for 6 cells, motor wear is quite low as a high turn motor is usually used, but is it the same for 4 cells?
is motor comm wear high?
-FP

If anyone is still looking for the Yokomo YRX-12 Worlds Edition let me know by
e-mail as I have found a distributor that has some in stock. I do not know how many they have though.

Kraig
KT Hobbies

to each his own, but one of the reason i got the CK is the tuneability of the rear end... also, i really don't like relying on tape alone ( i use the o-ring and tape)...

:D :nod: :cool:

Plus the fact that the guys at team CRC are quite helpful...

CK is 64 pitch... 98 tooth spur

how long can i play with this pack?

I don't want to drill holes in my chassis because I will most likely screw up and have to buy a new chassis. I also hate using servo tape. So I want to get the CK. I also want to get the old skool front end for it. Would this work? I wouldn't need to drill any other holes or anything? What parts would I need to get? Has anyone ever done this or heard of anyone doing this? Could someone give me the part #'s or just the parts names of things I would need to order?

The Carpet Knife V3.1- Professional Four Cell 1/12th Scale Multiple On-Road Champion. With Retro-Front End + 3 bolt rear wheels $149.99

How about this option.... call or e-mail CRC for the P/N

you dont need to drill holes if you are running the old style front end. you can shoo goo your servo to the chassis (just make sure its properly orented, ie not crooked, or too far to one side or the other.

and going from the old style to dynamic strut just requires unscrewing on, and putting the other one on.

Ok here's what I'm gonna do........ I'm gonna get the Carpet Knife standard version (because I don't want to spend all the extra $$$ ;) ), an "old skool" front end (I found a complete old style front end kit from Hobby Ect. for 20 bucks). I'm guessing that it will just bolt on from what Stormperson said. I'll find out what tires are right for my track and order them from some place that's cheeper :sneaky: . Here's another question I've come up with, what servo do you guys use? The only servo company's I will use is either JR or Airtronics. I had a Hitec servo and it died after not very long for no reason :flaming: . And all the Airtronics or JR servos that I've had are all still goin strong :D . I've had a JR servo in my Rustler for 3 years, now it's in my xxx-t, and I've never had any problems with it except I stripped the main gear once because it's plastic. I want to get a high speed servo with metal gears. I probably sound pretty picky right now, but when it comes to servos I like to have good ones. I also don't want to spend more than around 60 bucks. But all I really want to know is what servos you guys like and their specs (speed, torque, metal gears, price, ect.). Thanks! :D

The JR servo to have is the 3550. Its a mini servo, about .13 s @ 4.8 V, and enough torque to turn the wheels at speed, and hold them. Its plastic geared, but then again, so are most mini servos. The only 1/12 servo Ive ever seen with metal gears is a Hitec:rolleyes:

I dont think MG is really necessary, either. Its just extra weight.

I think I'll be fine with a plastic gear servo. I'd rather get a nice plastic geared servo than the Hitec :rolleyes: . Where can you get it from? Thanks! :D

racerdx- the rev. 3 is 160 and it COMES with a old school front end, and then you will end up saving more money since you wont have to pay for shipping from two different places, AND you will also get a better car:D and as far as the servo issue, the merchant comes with very good instruction as to how to mount the servo properly, and if you shoo goo it (which works just as well as drilling) then you can also re-do it later, and it takes just as much time as screwing it onto the mounts on the CK

as far as the servo... why sir you might just be in luck! in a 12th scale you never use a standard servo (its too heavy and you dont need that much grunt), you use a mini servo, and there are only like 3 total choices out there, and one per company. i have run the airtronics one for the past few years and loved it. the number is like 91514 or something like that (it has a 9,1,4,5 in the number i think :confused: ) and its $60! lol. and make sure to get the small kimbrough servo saver for it, or else you steering geometry will be messed up.

I have a Multiplex digital metal geared servo in my corally. The most popular servo in the UK is probably the Sanva 141. This will be the same as something from airtronics but no idea which one.

i think u'll find its the 94143 airtronics your after.
i run the KO 947 digital mini servo, got everything, metal gears, speed, torque, i really like it, sounds sweet too!! (which is what counts!! lol)

matt

Sanwa 141 is the same family as the Airtronics 94141, 94142, 94143, 94144, and 94145. The 94145 is .07 sec time to rotate 60 degrees at 6.0 volts. The 4.8 voltage transfere time is .09 seconds. There are NO other servos out there with those specs.

They are heavier and little bigger than the JR, but they still fit the car and don't weight it down.