Re: Re: 12L4 Mod
 

Hey Lem, quick quesiton. On your L3 arent the damper tubes backwards? Are they supposed to be going the other way. I htink you might have put the piece where the body post and damper tubes on wrong backwards. I might be wrong. :rolleyes:

Being new to 12th scale I'm not sure what people run...

What are the more popular servos to run in 12th.

Just looking for something nice with a reasonable price tag.

KO
JR Racing
Futaba
Airtronics

not a fan of hitec.

Thanks.

All of those companies make a good servo.

It's all personal preference.

I prefer the KO 947 or the newer 949.

The KO's are great. I am using a Futaba 9602 which is great. Or you can go digital with the futaba.

Have you finished my tubes?!? Quit playing around on this forum and finish my dampener tubes!!:lol:

That's odd because I always found my link car FAR EASIER to set up for asphalt because I could tune the roll-rate and dampening, and the fore and aft rate and dampening, independently. T-bar cars always seem to be about compromising, because your whole suspension revolves around that hunk of fiberglass. Link cars are more sensitive to changes in shock oil, and spring rate than t-bar cars, so I guess for some that may be difficult.

Yes sir. The oil or grease changes everything.
I think I like the damper disk better is they effect more of the steering feel, this is carpet racing. With tubes it seemed to get the steering I wanted I had to take away rear traction with shock oil and stiffer springs.

I think it's the other way around. Masami won the worlds and Blackstock has won about everything once. They both use disk. There are starting be more tube cars though.
I think it's good to know what both setup's do and be able to switch between them as option. The more you try things, the more you learn.

take care
john

:D

Hi Crashby,

I plan to work on some tubes on Friday actually, I'm probably going to do 4 or 5 standard sets, then work on some sprung prototype sets, then if I get time (unlikely) I'll work on some titanium piston sets. If I can get these ones down to a reasonable production time (instead of the 4 hours it took to make my set) I may offer those too. But I do have your name on a set.

I really want to try a sprung set on my L3 to see what it does, maybe it will liven the hadling up a bit.

Chris.

Most recently I have been using 50,000 silicon in my tubes, seems to be pretty good but in my tubes I have tried to maximise the length of the piston in the tube for the best damping effect. I'm interested to hear what everyone else is using and to what effect?

In the UK most people use either:
Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
or
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)

Spashett prefers CS

I have even used Jack the Gripper on CS27s :D

Not too sure on the others...

"Jack the Gripper" What a cool name, second only to Novak's Rhino charger "Nothing charges like a Rhino" :lol:

in scotland 90% of people use the lrp compound

You Da Man!!!

Cool, I have seen a few people use it but not tried it myself

12l4 observations
 

I've done some test runs at my local indoor racquetball court and foud out the aluminum screws are sticking out of the chassis more than before. They expand more due to friction and heat. All the holes on the chassis will have to be countersunk. I'm using a drill bit and sanding cone to countersink.

Due to friction and heat? How's the possible? Is the chassis dragging on the ground? I've never heard that aluminum screws will expand on a chassis before.

Dom