They are only carrying the shells that are legal but that's enough to get you going.

Helger have both types of CEFX (the new ones are high demand though but apparently easy to drive). They also have the new Parma Zytec and the Speed8, Zytec is easier than the original CEFX to drive.

CML seem to have run out of Proto P35's as they are no longer made, the Speed 12 is not legal but I liked it to drive.
There are several Corally shells but I have not tried them.

I tend to use the LRP additive LRP65010 (replaces6501) from Helger. The club I run at also has a lot of people using CS High Grip - they are both on the list on racechat as legal odourless. LRP seesm to work well on rubber tyres too. Jack the Gripper is supposed to be good but i have never tried it.

Apparently it is best to run whatever most other people are using to get best results, so I would get a supply of the LRP......

Regards
Scott

That sound real good to me

I have just ordered a parma zytec & parma magenta fr & pink rr from DMS

Q) what is the difference between the rear pink & grey both 30 shore

I will buy from our LHS if the price is right,

So with the LHS carrying my products i said i would support them ,they scatch my back i`ll scratch there`s as they say:nod:

Please note that you need to use flanged bearings on the Parma FRONT wheels. The L4 kit comes with unflanged bearings which only work with the Jaco fronts.

I will be in Scotland next Monday for the racing in Penicuik. Wish I could get to Kent.

Wish i could get to kent:eek: no you would`nt scotlands far prettyer

Anyway the club here is having it`s first meet for 1/12th on march 18th, that will be the first test run for them:weird:

next thing is this

Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
LRP Top Traction (Blue Factor) White can - blue writing (6501)
Orion Street Juice (TC Traction F1) clear bottle - purple writing (44101)
Orion Foam Juice Formula clear bottle – yellow writing (44105)
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner – High Grip clear bottle white label (C6400)
- Or short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)
The packaging of the CS addative changed -same part number, two types of container

If you have another odourless additive you would like checked as being ok this can be done by giving it or sending it to the committee (via the eligibility officer please) However don't expect it to be done on the day at a national, we'll need a couple of weeks to check it (chemically and on the track)

(This is because certain additives when mixed on a track can destroy the grip for everybody present, those listed above are all known to work together ok)

Do you think this is a good guide pasted it of another forum in the uk:batman:

ON the track-PInks provide more side bite and more forward traction than Greys. What some of us do in stock is to run PInk rears till traction comes up and then switch to Greys. If you can go 8-minutes without car getting loose-then you should be faster on Greys.

IN mod-your most likely going to remain on pink rears the whole race day.

Don't forget that you you have to pick up some extra shims to run parma rears. they have more offset then jacos.

Which reminds me, I wouldn't think cutting on the rear pod would be the correct thing to do. Yes it will work but your rear track is now going to be narrower. Both tires are the same width just different offsets. so shimming the axle would make the most sense. I guess what i was wondering was; does anyone make a thick spacer that makes up the difference in offset between the two tires.

oh yeah, thanks for the info Ray and Theisgroup.

I am afraid not-though if you buy from Oval on-line shops-they have much thicker shims. I have even used an unflanged bearing as a spacer when I needed to take up a lot of room on the axle.

I wouldn't use a bearing as spacer, because now the bearing inside the ride height adjuster wouldn't be running smoothly. What you can do is to find a couple of old/shot bearings, put it on a vise, squeeze it and the bearing will break apart, use the what used to be the inner race of the bearing as spacer, works perfect and it won't bind up the bearings.

Dom

Actually, the Speedmerchant Rev.4 is a VERY good asphalt car, and Rheinhard and Groskamp both put CRC CARPETKNIVES into the A-Main at the IFMAR Worlds, which was an asphalt race as well. The days of the "T-bar cars work better on Asphalt" are now officially over. There were three "T-bar free" cars in the main at the most prestigious On-Road race on Earth.

If you're dead set on getting a T-bar car for Asphalt, I'd get a Kawada, Xenon or Yokomo, as they are designed for asphalt racing and come with "flexi" chassis to increase bite. Of course you could just get a Rev. 4 and tune your car with the suspension, rather than chassis flex..............

That Slapmaster is one of the coolest looking 12th scale cars I have ever seen.Very original design nice to see something other than a flat sheet of carbon.

Hey guys Lufaso's site is back up. :nod: :nod:

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html

Link cars obviously work on asphalt as well as carpet, but it would seem to me that 't' bar cars are eaiser, faster to set up on asphalt.

As I found out the hard way when running a link car on asphalt (or any surface) make sure your starting out with new tires. Do NOT use tires that you may have had from last season. They just don't seem to work and you keep chasing a car that doesn't handle.

E

Cypress,

I tried all last year trying to get a link car to work on asphalt, it didn't. I'm not a bad driver, you are talking about two of the best drivers around. No-one here likes a t-bar car on asphalt, I did have one good race though, there was so much VHT on the track the tractions was crazy and I was still being beat badly by t-bar cars. Link cars are very difficult to make work on ashpalt.

I've been reading some 12th scale info on the net and found some racers still prefer to use the L3 front end instead of the L4. Anyone know differences between the two?