Bumpy carpet T-Bar question
 

I'm running 4c stock 1/12th at the Snowbirds. Typically I use a .075 T bar with all three pod screw in place with a green spring. However, last year perennial fast guy Smyka told me to run a .063 with only the outer holes and a blue spring. He said the tracks gets so bumpy that you need a thin T-Bar ands that it will give you all the steering you need for stock. My car was super easy to drive and it was fast. do any of you run a similar setup for bumpy carpet?

FYI...usually by Sunday the 1/12th cars catch and inch of air on some parts of the Snowbirds tracks. Last year Blackstock and McMahon were in the lead of the A-Main at different times. Both had their cars catch on a lifted corner of a board and flip off the track and out of the lead.

KH15,
You cant run the antenna up the tube because it is not an antenna tube like a touring car. It is a fiberglass rod that is meant to right the car if it tips. So the only way to do your antenna is to wrap it.

Re: link vs t-bar
 

Don't forget the Hara conversion. It is neither T bar nor link. I don't know what you would call it. A U block? It does use a pivot to hinge the motor pod and a block of aluminum in the shape of an upside down U to mount the springs.

any site dedicatied to 1/12th? or any vids of these cars in action?

I have two Q's;

When switching from Jaco to Parma tires on a L4 what are you guys using for spacers on the rear? Without shimming it, the tire rubs the lower pod. I think I need about 2mm.

Last week I was running My L4 and it wanted to push like crazy. I'm running pretty much Blackstocks L3 setup. Using Jaco Dbl Pink front and Jaco Pink rears. sauceing(FXII) about 1/3 to 1/2 on fronts and all the rears. Also, runnign ascari body. My buddy told me to try a stiffer rear spring. I will try that the next time I'm at the track. Any other suggestions? Oh yeah track is burnt new ozite. Apprx 90x50 and very smooth.Thanks

Smyka is da man when it comes to 1/12 scale. He has helped me out a lot with my car.


Mark, good luck at the Birds!! one more time....



-Juan Carlos

I have a few questions: I was wondering if there would be much of a differance by running my servo flat on the chassis instead of at an angle like the stock servo monts do on an l3? Slighly lower center of gravity? If i did this, should I mount the ball studs in the front or in the back of the servo saver? If I mount them in the front then I will need to remove part of the upper arms, but if I run them in the rear I wont need to remove as much, if any material from the upper arm. If I set up my servo this way would it make a difference on how the car steers? The reason i am considering this is to move my servo up the chassis so that I can mount the reciever pack closer to the center(right behind the servo), which will allow me to obtain a car where the weight is distributed more evenly.
One more thing: When I was rebuilding my car I noticed I had lost shim or two for the rear axel, and when I buy them and install them, should I allow just a little movement in the rear axle, no no movement at all?
Lastly, I found like three trinity greases for dampener tubes and the front suspension(white, red, and purple stuff) and was wondering what exactly these greases did to affect how the car handled(more traction, steering, etc).
Thanks(sorry for all the questions)

I can answer your first question for sure. Yo want your cars total rear width to be 6.77" wide. When you go from Jaco to Parma-your car will become much narrower due to the rim offset. Measure your cars total width with Jacos-then put the Parmas on and remeasure, Make sure you space out the axle evenyl per side till you hit 6.77"

I say 6.77 because thats ROAR max .width

As for question number two-I can recommend a some things.

1-sauce more of the front tire

2-try White or Grey rears or smaller diameter rears.

3-Softer font spring (0.020 works well most of the time).

4-Make your turning circle (dual rate) 3 or 4 clicks smaller.

5-run the front of the car just a tad lower than the rear

6-stiffer center spring (silver).

7-Parma Speed 8 body.

1) you will have to shave down the pod plate. The offset on the wheel is different. I had to do that with the trc foams as well. The big thing is that you will want the same displacement from the centerline of the rear axle. also what ray said, make the track width as wide as possible

2) on the ascari body there is too uch donw force on the rear of the body, you will want to cut out the 2 outlines in the rear wing of the body. cut them the size of the outlines. this will give you more even downforce front to rear. What I was seeing is the front of the car lift as I was going down the long straight. because the rear had soo much down force, it would force the front up. I cut the 2 hole in the rear wing and now the car is faster by .4 sec a lap from the speed 12 body. you will notice it pushes more on fast sweepers then tight twisties because you have more speed and the rear lift the front that much more.

i leave just enough room so that I am not putting alot of pressure on the bearing. you would not leave enough room that the axel has play from side to side, just enough so that you are not putting undue pressure on the bearing. A good way to set it is to sping the rear axel and see how free it is and then set the left hub and spin the axel again. it should still spin just as free. then check to see if the axel has any play side to side. if it has play, you will need to make it a little tighter.

12th scale paint helper
 

Found this cool paint helper for painting a body for your 12th scale. Please excuse this post if this belongs to the painting section. Click here!

I have just getting a L4 factory kit for a new club that is starting up for 1/12th here in the uk
Q)is there anything that i should know (probs) with the car

Brand new carpet what tyres are best for durability & grip, were not after outright grip, jaco`s & parma`s are avialable

Also trying to source some decent 1/12th shell the main suppliers over here are not bringing them into the uk (not enough demand):cry:


We (bunch of us) have never raced these little pocket rockets we are just a bit bored with touring cars ,we have so many series & clubs are way,also the gym halls are to small to go fast with a 1/10th:(

Dear Mr Jolly,

I would suggest Purple fronts and some Pink and Grey Rears, these are the standard tyres to choose. Parma's seem to be the strongest wheels - and I am a good tester of durability.

All of the relevant bodies are in stock with the UK distributors, you seem to have contact with the distributors. 12th is growing massively and quickly in the UK. Did you buy your car in the UK?

Where in kent is the club? Is this the one discussed on Racechat?

Regards
Scott

it`s going to be at eltham club nr sidcup kent (the one on racechat)

And yes i got my car from pollhill modelworld

with regards to body`s CML now only carry 1 shell & that`s it , they did tell the shop they are trimming down the 1/12th sector(not enough demand)

Helgar??
shop is going to contact them regarding the parma & cefx shells

What is a good additive for foams that won`t interfear with additive for slicks??