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it is a 075 he's just tired from running his mouth at the track tonight.:p but you might want to find the thinnest 075 you can get. which might be as thin as .069 from what I have gotten
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Robert needs an ego check its usually 2 laps or more...
.075" t-bars are hardly ever .075" there is always a variance. yes I was referring to a .072" t-bar Its been a while but I think that's pretty close to the size of the plastic spacers that come with the kits... and they aren't always the same either... Michael |
go to sleep skeen it's after 3am
stupid daylight savings time. |
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.
I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level... I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much. I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now. If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compense, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well... One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast... $.02 Michael Skeen Good enough for me! Lots of good onfo here it seems. Thanks for the help Tempest et al. |
what is currently the best 1.12th on the market?
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no problem glad to help...
as far as cars go either CRC car is good spring or t-bar. speedmerchants are also nice. I know CRC cars come with all the hop ups... no extra hop-ups required to race at any level. I would assume speedmerchants are the same way but check with some of those guys on here to be sure. Other than that maybe a BMI 12th... |
hello, should i get a 9x1 or 9x2?
will the 9x1 lack of torque? and what should be the roll out for 9T? tx |
I would go for the double. In general the more strands a armature has, the more efficient the motor will be.
And that is something you can use in these cars, also 12th cars are light so you don't need a lot of torque. |
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
no problem glad to help...
as far as cars go either CRC car is good spring or t-bar. speedmerchants are also nice. I know CRC cars come with all the hop ups... no extra hop-ups required to race at any level. I would assume speedmerchants are the same way but check with some of those guys on here to be sure. Other than that maybe a BMI 12th... Nick |
The CRC cars have that same stuff out of the box... :rolleyes:
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I had the Rug Burn out today for its maiden race. First I want to say how impressed I am by the quality of Doug's work, the car was a joy to build.
From the first run right out of the bag the car was good, easily the nicest driving car I've had in some time. I was geared wrong for the first rouind of qualifying, but in the second I beat my personal best time on this layout by several seconds. Unfortunately, I changed tires for the the third round and the mains, and completely forgot to check the ride height... I was way too low in front, somewhere between 1.5 and 2 mm ride height. Made the car push badly as the chassis was bottomoing out just about everywhere. Next week I should have my head on straight... looking forward to getting out again with this car. What really strikes me about this chassis is how easy it drives while still going fast... it's usually been my experience that a fast car doesn't feel all that nice to drive, and a nice feeling car isn't all that fast... this one goes fast AND drives sweet. For what it's worth, I'm running the old skool front end, .020 springs, 2 degree caster shim, a silver spring and 45wt oil in the center shock, CRC damper tubes with Losi thin hydra fluid in them. Trinity Monster with a 4499 and red spring on pos, and a 767 and green spring on neg. 40mm rollout. Also ran a Co27 with the same brush and spring combo and 45mm rollout. Thanks Doug, MAGNIFICENT job on the Rug Burn! |
Originally Posted by Trips
Thanks Doug, MAGNIFICENT job on the Rug Burn! Hey Dave You did look smooth :sneaky: ...I had a blast today . I know when You get that Rug Burn Dialed I'll have to watch out.. |
Might be a while before I can give you a run, you were FLYING today...
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Originally Posted by TomB
what is currently the best 1.12th on the market?
Red Durashock Purple and Grey racing tires Strongest, great looking lowered red aluminum pod plates Titanium front axles Scalloped and lightened great looking red diff hub Diff lube, tube lube, tools + body clips included Red Aluminum hardware The most complete, race ready car kits in 1/12th scale. |
CRC has several 12th scale kits, Carpet Knife, 6-pack, T-fource, Razor.
they don't automatically have all the goodies unless you choose the TEAM EDITION versions. their T-fource (t-bar car) basic kit, with large ring diff at $149 only lacks the $24 lowered plates, it is one of the best deals going. and should you want to try anyone elses conversion you will have dampner tubes. |
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