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I run a 96. You dont need to run the 100. You can get the same ratios woth the 96 pretty much.
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
hello again, I think I must be missing something. Maybe y'all can help. I realize some pinion/spur combos require some tricky modificatiosn to the t-plate and removing the middle screw and such. My new 12L4 has a 100 t spur and I have removed the middle screw for clearance. I can't fit anything bigger than a 27t pinion on the motor and get proper gear mesh. The only thing I can see left to do is to grind away at the t-plate or remove the spacers between the chassis and the t-plate. Are there anyother options if I want to run a 100t spur? I have been recomended to start my stock motor gearing around 100/31-35 depending on tire size.
If you run outdoors the hot setup is 2 screws and a .063" bar. With a beveled rear edge you can fit up to a 96/38. If you run on carpet bevel the rear edge of your .075" t-bar and mount up your lower pod with 3 screws. Use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to carefully grind away at the alloy center screw nut until it matches the bevel at the rear of the t-bat...its as easy as that. FYI, I do this grinding with the t-car off the car. Just the t-car and lower pod are together. If you try to do this on your car you will have aluminum dust everywhere and thats not good for pivot balls or bearings. |
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Before you mount a new t-bar sand a 45 deg angle along the back edge. This will gave you motor clearance.
If you run outdoors the hot setup is 2 screws and a .063" bar. With a beveled rear edge you can fit up to a 96/38. If you run on carpet bevel the rear edge of your .075" t-bar and mount up your lower pod with 3 screws. Use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to carefully grind away at the alloy center screw nut until it matches the bevel at the rear of the t-bat...its as easy as that. FYI, I do this grinding with the t-car off the car. Just the t-car and lower pod are together. If you try to do this on your car you will have aluminum dust everywhere and thats not good for pivot balls or bearings. |
Because 3 screws is usually faster and its not that much trouble at all.
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or just get an 88 or 69 spur ........ and gear accordinly
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The bigger the spur the more efficient the gear system becomes. You may see 88T gears on the cars of club racers but the seriously fast guys NEVER run anything smaller than a 96.
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Originally Posted by imjonah
1. How difficult would it be to run a 1/18th scale brushless on your standard 1/12 scale chassis?
http://www.bk-electronics.com/catalo...nschplatte.jpg BK-Electronics from Germany makes the adaptor. The USA distributor is finedesignrc.com. You'll have to call finedesignrc and ask them to get it. (It took them a couple of months to fufill my order. I don't know if they have any on hand right now.) They call it a 'Distance mounting plate for 15er LMT motors'. |
Thanks a million guys. I just want o take my time and get my car together correctly and not have to learn things the hard way. I am sure I will have more questions after tomorrow.
Andrew |
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Because 3 screws is usually faster and its not that much trouble at all.
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Andrew, be prepared to learn a lot of things the hard way. These little cars may seem simple, but they really are not that simple at all. Be a little off on something and you will be hating life. They are fun little bastards though, and pretty addicting. :D
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I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.
I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level... I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much. I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now. If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compensate, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well... One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast... $.02 Michael Skeen |
I bought a load of PRS 92 tooth spurs at snowbirds and they seem to work real well. and I can only get a 96/31 on without grinding the tplate but with the 92 I can get a 34 on it easy. but for the most part I only run a 29 or 30 to get the right roll out. was running a 45 at the Roar nats.
1.77" tires 92 spur 29 pinion 45mm rollout 96/31 gets me a 45.5 rollout but it's nice not to have to pry the motor foward to get it. I do have a load of 88 spurs but only use them for 19t 12th scale. once ran a 58 rollout on a pavement rack with a 165' straight. |
That is a good idea with the Spacers. I have a broken .075 here I think I will do that with when I get some time. :nod: Thanks Micheal.
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dang I need to learn how to post faster:rolleyes: but then michael usually is a lap up on me
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Originally Posted by Tempest2000
I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.
I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level... I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much. I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now. If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compense, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well... One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast... $.02 Michael Skeen |
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