Is there going to be a top plate made to use damper tubes instead of the disks? I am refering to the Rug Burn.

I think the standard top plate is for damper tubes. I asked for the damper disk unit. I tried tubes but disks are WAY more consistent and are faster in back to back testing. I ran my BMI-12 both ways and was always faster with disks.

yeah dougs graphite is top notch. i'm real impressed with the work he has done for my projects.

reminder to all you black widow guys. i have 3mm conversion cars in stock. you can run the deiter front end and the assoc front end. new tubes, batts run front to back, shortened wheelbase. thicker upper plate, cross bar.
the c 12 rear end will bolt right on this car. the pod offset is the same so it doesn't effect wheelbase at all.

i am also working with doug on makig reflex front end braces(in black). along with a new front end in the works.

interesting, adrian is that on carpet or asphalt?? or both. i don't have alot of experience with a disc. every time i tried one i didn't like it.

Where, how, do we get your Black Widow replacement chassis/kits?

Hey im too lazy to hit the search button. :)


Few quick questions im just building up a T-Fource for stock carpet racing.

1) Whats the largest starting diameter you recomend for new tires front and rear?

2)Whats the recomended front to rear stagger between the front and rear tire diameters? fronts always smaller? If so by how much? 1,2,3mm?

Thats all for now.

Thanks for any replies

crashby, send me an email. i can piece it up anyway you like.

[email protected]

Joel-you'll be happy to know I just drove my new t-fource and it was stupid good right out of the box. I dont know your level of financial commitment, but I start tires small even for club racing. It hurts to see all that foam go flying away-but oh well.

I dont care one bit aboout tire stagger because the cars 2wd. I know some believe in it-I dont. I also run lowered ods and lowered front arms from IRS. This allows me to run fronts down to 1.60 if need be and rears donw to 1.66", again, if need be.

Anyways-heres club racing starting sizes.

Fronts 1.68" Max, but I like them in the 1.64" range.

Rears 1.81" Max, but I like them in the 1.71-1.74 range.

I like tend to start a little bigger 48mm for the rears and 46mm for the fronts. I don't worry a whole lot about my stagger much after that. I also like the thick t-bar, .20 front springs, and the 10 degree upper a arm mounts.

9x1 or 9x2 ? will the 9x1 lack of torque?

Thanks for the sizes guys

RAY u say u dont worry about front to rear stagger but you do stagger them to start right? Your sizes you posted indicate that you do, at least to start. I'm guess from there on you dont try to maintian any stager correct?

Thanks again.

After running touring cars for so long its going to be a fun challenge

Project Car
 

I am working on a thought experiment/project car.

I have two basic questions.

1. How difficult would it be to run a 1/18th scale brushless on your standard 1/12 scale chassis?

2. Given the reduced speed of the 1/18th motor and with some minor bumper modifications and additional side bumpers;
could I make the car virtually invulnerable to suspension damage. (Full speed hiting a board at any angle).

hello again, I think I must be missing something. Maybe y'all can help. I realize some pinion/spur combos require some tricky modificatiosn to the t-plate and removing the middle screw and such. My new 12L4 has a 100 t spur and I have removed the middle screw for clearance. I can't fit anything bigger than a 27t pinion on the motor and get proper gear mesh. The only thing I can see left to do is to grind away at the t-plate or remove the spacers between the chassis and the t-plate. Are there anyother options if I want to run a 100t spur? I have been recomended to start my stock motor gearing around 100/31-35 depending on tire size.

Don't remove the spacers between the T-plate and the chassis, they are needed to keep the rear pod level with the main chassis. You can grind away some of the T-plate for extra clearence if you need to. I was able to fit a 32 tooth pinion with all 3 screws in the T-plate with a 100 tooth spur in my RC12L4...

Hey Andrewdoherty,

You can do two things, you can remove the middle screw on the T-plate and grind away at the T-plate you can fit up to a 35t pinion that way. But the only down side is that running only two screws on the t-plate you may break the T-plate easier than if you where run 3 screws.Your second choice is to run a 96 spur you can run a even bigger pinnion that way if needed hope this helps :nod: