Diff problems - Just make sure that after the race day is over you loosen the diff completely. I've started doing this, cleaning the diff/spur and re-lubing after every race day. My diff bearings are lasting longer now. Unless your diff has been slipping, most of the time it's the bearing that is shot, not the balls and rings.

The Pt has different vents in the can than the Kr. Reedy only submitted the configurations as is for approval by ROAR. Mixing brush hoods, arms and cans between these to motors is not legal per ROAR. If you are running in a non-sanctioned event, who cares.

Treydog..
Try the 767 with a verticle slot, then narrow the brush .01" per side (all the way around) with green springs... for 1/12 works great...
Wayne


Davidl...
Do you have any of the IRS ride hgt adj.?? None of the local shops have them.. I want to make sure they fit in the BMI kit I'm working on...
Thanks,
Wayne

What foam tire would any one suggest to run on a track surface of smooth concrete with a heavy coating of vht?

Yes, I have them. They fit all of the IRS pod plates that I have. I would trust IRS.

Today was a tough one
 

I finally got everything done on my car. This was my first time running a 1/12th car and did it end up being an expensive day. I thought I was taking it easy, well OK I know I was taking it easy because I really didn't want to risk breaking anything.I got distracted from driving and hit a corner post. The car started trying to go in a circle at full throttle by itself. I popped the body off to find that the speed control had come apart. Luckily the on/off switch worked and I was able to shut the car off. Get the car in the pits and the speed control snaps back together with no apparant damage since steering and throttle both work.
Round 2, I'm being even more careful now since I'm really afraid the speed control might come apart on me again. I go over a corner dot and the car does it again. This time I can smell electrics frying. The case had come apart again but the circuit boards didn't completely seperate and it fried itself.
So I guess I'm out the $150 I paid for the first controller and the cost of the one I had to buy today.
Sorry, I'm done. Just had to vent a little.

wierd, 10 yrs of racing and never have my esc come off, im using trinity servo tape.

im really getting interested into this 1/12 scale on road stuff and i was wondering of any website that are dedicated to it? one that i could go to and just read up on this area of r/c so i dont have to ask a million questions?
and the car i like is the AE rc12l4 pan car its really got some nice features and i think it will be a good car for a newbie like me!
and what are the dimensions of these pan cars with the bodys on?

I have had a Quantum Comp 2 ESC come apart on my 12th scale car only.

Matt Francis suggested that I wrap all my QC2s all the way around their perimeter with reinforced battery tape...That took care of the issue.

Just scan through the pages of this forum for a lot of insight into 1/12th scale.

Also go to http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/ Hmmmm...Not working now.

Just a couple months ago, I started with a slightly used 12L3 and have been doing pretty well with that. Just got a new 12L4 put together this week and it was immediately 1-2 laps to the good during an 8 minute run. Just set it up exactly per the assembly instructions and put on some CRC lowered rear side pods for a killer machine. You are going to love this car.

Here's some wicked 12th scales.

http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Image3/PA020055.jpg
http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/Image3/PA020056.jpg
http://www.fseara.org/gallery/albums...doseck_001.jpg
http://www.fseara.org/gallery/albums...solini_001.jpg

wow those are really nice! whats the yellow battery pack for?

It wasn't where the esc attaches to the chassis, it was the case of the esc itself. I guess it hit hard enough to make the two halves seperate. That must have then weakened the parts that hold the two halves together.

KH15: to power the receiver and servo. It does two things:
1. raise the voltage from the four cell 4.8 to 6volts so the servo is quicker
2. you have full battery power for the motor this way, your car will remain controllable as long as the receiver pack has power

SteveB
always keep some slack in your esc's wires. Make sure that in a crash if the batteries come loose, your esc won't be tugged loose.

Re: Today was a tough one
 

SteveB - I can relate to your loss. If you speed control is an LRP Quantum, the top case is plated on the inside and outside to attenuate switching noise from the speed control that can couple on the antenna of the receiver and cause radio interference problems. So the board(s) shorted against the case to cause its failure. You should consider sending the speedo back for repairs. It will cost you a little money, but then you would have 2 speedos and no lose all of you investment in the first one. And now I hope you will be using the tape trick to keep the case halves together. The last Quantum that I purchased already had tape installed. Good luck and don't give up.