Dpowell

If spooky doesn't want your chassis I may be interested.

E-mail me what you are asking for it and a picture if you have one or at least what is included and what shape it is in.

Thanks
Bob

[email protected]

Have at it Bobby, I could not bear to take the chassis off of my yokomo.

Thanks for the offer DPowell, but I am looking for the blue aluminum cross brace. The little carbon one that comes with the yok..really sux

akrcracer, the crc universal mounts wont help for putting the servo in. you will have to drill and counter sink a new hole, drill the hole for the left side(usa driver side) a few mm towards centre from the hole that already there.

The Shooters L3 chassis kit is not even their product, it is a Yokomo Sp2001 chassis , cross brace, upper/lower pod plates..... I know I have one on my 6-pack.... Love IT!!!

rctech tf

Speedmerchant info.
 

Hey guys,

I got some Speedmerchant kits (2), Chassis (3), and lots of spare parts in today. Just e-mail me and I'll see what I can do for you. I got these to support our club memebrs as we have no less than 10 Rev.3' running in the fall!!! Basically the entire A every week is nothing but Rev.3's!!! MAybe an L car or CRC slips in, but almost never in the top 4.

Ray

Tres: I was very interested in this idea....I have had some major glitching with this motor. Question: What was the issues that promted you to solder? What was the results? I also suspect a design problem with those tabs. Alittle tire dust working it's way into the contact point can't be good...

I had a very good MS glitch badly after I had turned it. Took off the circuit board and soldered 3 regular caps in it's place. As you might guess...no glitch.

Graphitedust: Mine just started to glitch out of the blue.

I checked every every thing in the car, changed the motor, the glitch went away...

So I started looking closer at the motor, I got my meter out and had issues getting a good reading on the caps.

So basicly, I just did it as a test and it worked.
Once soldered, I was able check the caps with my meter with no issues..

But now, ALL my monster motors get soldered.
Mine appeared clean, I even tried to clean again...

I'm deciding which body to get for my RC12 L3 that I'm saving up for now. Is the Ascari better than the Parma Speed 8?
Stormperson- when you said "since it is just that much better", did you mean that the Parma body was much better than any other Protoform body, or did you mean that the Ascari was much better than the Parma body? I couldn't really figure out what you ment. If I get the Ascari I won't have to repostion my electronics, all I would have to do is position them so they didn't hit the body. Is it difficult to position the electronics so they don't hit? I'm getting high quality electronics, a Novak GT7 or TC2 speedo, and a Futaba R123F reciever. What body's come with rear and front wheel wells marked? Do any bodys come with all 4 wheel wells marked in a position that would work with the RC12 L3? If they don't come marked, is it difficult to mark them your self? How do you guys do that? Here's my last question, does the Ascari come with over-spray film? Thanks in advance! :D

What would a car feel like if the tires were not rounded off correctly? Too square.

Any help would be appreciated.

any one run the trinity 1/12 ?

The car doesnt feel any different, to me at least, its just that the tire chunks more easily. I find that as the rears wear, they lose their roundness. I dont notice a difference, though.

JSJ - the car will tighten up, just a little, and it is a little more difficult to turn tight, fast corners.

racerdx- sorry i wasnt clear. do not get the protoform, get the parma. the ascari might be okay with those electronics, however you just will need to play aroung with them to get them to fit. btw i would recommend getting the quantom competition over those esc's any day, espically in 12th scale. also i have heard of alot of assorted problems with GT7's even from novak team drivers.

as far as wheels wells and such... its really easy, and i dont think any come with premarked rears (however they are almost always premarked in the front, however you always want to check to make sure they are correct for your car). to do the wheel wells properly mount your body generally so the front wheel wells are correct and then (before or after paiting, before is easier though) line up a spare wheel to the wheel on the car and trace it on the body. then you should have generally the correct size and should have the exact correct placement if you did it correctly.

A lot people at my track run the GT7. They have not had any problems with it I think, I'll ask though. I've heard of people having more problems with the Quantum than any Novak speedo. What kind of problems did people run into with the GT7? Have you heard any problems with the TC2? Thanks! :D