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Originally posted by Finsy Just bought a CRC 3.1 and have a couple of setups tips that I need from you guys Running on slightly bumpy aspalt with medium to high traction Setup:- tires - 35shore f/r (no color code for these locally found foams) center shock - 10wt oil CRC copper spring side damper - 70wt oil (no access to Losi hydrafluid) side spring - CRC green front caster block - 10deg?? (it's the angled ones) caster - both white spacers infront(deg??) camber - 1.5deg toe-out - 0deg traction compund - paragon(full rear/half front) I need more turn-in(off power) steering, on power steering is good while i would prefer to lessen it slightly. So what changes do i need to do to my current setup?? and also where does the Associated center spring fit in the the CRC spring chart from softest to hardest Associated blue??? silver(kit) gold(team kit) red copper CRC stiff silver(.50) CRC super stiff silver(.55) You can try reducing your caster by moving one spacer to the back and also try camber of 1deg. For less steering on power try a softer centre shock spring. |
Originally posted by Jimmyd Hi, You can try reducing your caster by moving one spacer to the back and also try camber of 1deg. For less steering on power try a softer centre shock spring. |
Correct. Less caster will get more turn in. But you need to put spacers to the back to reduce caster.
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Originally posted by Jimmyd Correct. Less caster will get more turn in. But you need to put spacers to the back to reduce caster. thanks again |
Try it and see. Putting spacers to the front, your upper arms will shift back and your kingpin will lean back more from vertical = more caster.
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PLZ HELP
Hey guys i really need some help, i need the part no. for the yokomo yrx 12we ssg conversion for the 12L3, and can you give me the cost of the conversion.
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Wow,
I used to just shave the edges of my ride height adjusters, but last night I worked on grinding out the actual rear pod, the axle is really free now. Now if I could only build a smooth diff :lol: |
Paperboy: The best way to do that is to place the ride ht. adjs. in the pod and then run a reamer through the ride ht. adjs, while they're in the pod, that way your bearings always remain square in relation to one another. It also helps take into acct differences in the size of the ride height adjusters as they come from the manufacturer. Some a little larger or smaller than others.
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Originally posted by Jimmyd Try it and see. Putting spacers to the front, your upper arms will shift back and your kingpin will lean back more from vertical = more caster. |
With the standard parts you are correct..... with the IRS caster pieces (primarily used on 1/10th oval cars) Jimmy is correct.......
But with the standard Associated dynamic strut front end spacers to the front = less caster, and spacers to the back = more caster...... |
impactplayr- i'm using Associated front end...so i guess jimmyd might be using the IRS ones...by the way does effect on caster differ with 12th scale and TC
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Question, what kind of front end is on the RC12L3, the "old school" or the dynamic strut?
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Originally posted by Addict sa RC Question, what kind of front end is on the RC12L3, the "old school" or the dynamic strut? |
Actually, the Six-Pack and CarpetKnife from CRC can also be ordered with the old front-end. They call it "retro"
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I got my servo and servo savers in the mail today. I finally found the small kimbrough saver online :) . I have the reciever and two of my packs also, all I have to wait for now is my car, other battaries, and esc :D .
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