defently get a mini servo, a standard one, will have a hard time fitting the rest of your electronics, and also it weighs alot more, which will defently throw off your handling (way too much front weight balance)

standard servo
 

Standard servos are for 10th scale cars. you should use a small servo for a 12th scale car (Air. 94145, Hitec 225HG or bb, etc.)

Can you make a standard servo fit? Yes. Is it right? No!

A freind of mine had to use a standard servo in a pinch on his carpet knife.....

It will cause 2 distnct problems......

on-power- the extra weight being transferred to th rear while accelerating will cause a fairly bad push, which can be counteracted by using stiffer center and side springs.....

Off-power- Now the weight is transferred quickly to the front and it will go from a push to oversteer ver quickly, this can be counteracted by useing stiffer front springs........

The effects can be overcome, buy you will find yourself riding a very thin line..... and if the track is even somewhat bumpy...... sorry about your luck!! Small scale servo are just too cheap not to use one IMHO....

I had an idea for making friction plate a lot more effective, tell me what you think.

In the plate between the discs, drill several holes, slightly over 1/8", maybe 9/64. Put diff balls in those holes. Then the plates will ride on teh balls. Also, if you cut the standoff that holds the top plate, and used a longer screw, you could control the spring pressure on the balls, and thus help to tune the roll.

Any thoughts on weather or not that would work?

for the plates to ride on the balls they would have to move opposite of each other, wouldn't work

thanks... will try it out next time... :cool:

Damper Disks on a 12L3
 

Please help me understand the damper disks on a 12L3.

Let's say I use no fluids on the disks the car will? React slower or faster in a curve?

Using some type of heavy fluid? Reacter faster or slower in a curve?

I am getting a Corally sp12gII in a package deal and was wondering if the 4 cell chassis of the current car (sp12m) will bolt right up or is there major differences. Never had a Corally before and always wanted one. Opinions?

I went to the smaller wires and rerouted them on my 12L3 and retweaked the t plate and my problems seem to be gone. We will see for sure next weekend. Thank you for all the help guys.

Muffin - You probably fixed all the problems when you re-routed the wires to the motor. You can probably go back to the other size wire and be OK.

Next - the two Corally cars you mentioned are totally different. There are only a few parts that are interchangable. Things like front and rear axles, motor pod, dampning pd and steering linkage. If you want one of each, your best move is to buy complete cars. I tried to piece together a 12M out of my vast stock of Corally parts and I still went back and spent over $60, and I still didn't have the latest front springs. I suggest you talk to Corally USA as there are hop-ups for the 12M that include center shock and spring system and a one piece mount for the tee-bar pivots that help the chassis for stiffness. They also have a new dampning system for the rear. Good luck.

PS - My REV3 is still faster.

Discharging 4-cell packs
 

I'm getting ready to do some 1/12 scale racing and I have a question. What's everyone using to discharge their 4-cell packs. There are plenty of choices for discharging 6 cell packs down to .9v per cell @20-30 amps, but what about 4-cell packs. The only things I've been able to find are the high-end Integy chargers and the Competition Electronic chargers.

Mushu
 

I have an integy 16 X 5. It will discharge at 20 amps for a 4 cell. It cost me $165.00. I think you would need about 15 bulbs to do the same thing. At 7.2 volts one 1157 (I use 3157) bulb is 2 amps. SO for 4 cells you need more. Probably 1/3 more. BUT we do not use the current like the 6 cell guys do. That is why we have 8 minute races and can get away with 16 or 18 guage wire.

Hope I helped
David Root

I think you could use a Trinity Real Time 2 discharging tray. You can get them for 30 dollars depeding where you buy from. They take each cell down indevidually untill a certain cut-off point that's built in. Does anyone use this to discharge their packs? I use one on my 6 cell packs.

Just bought a CRC 3.1 and have a couple of setups tips that I need from you guys
Running on slightly bumpy aspalt with medium to high traction

Setup:-

tires - 35shore f/r (no color code for these locally found foams)
center shock - 10wt oil CRC copper spring
side damper - 70wt oil (no access to Losi hydrafluid)
side spring - CRC green
front caster block - 10deg?? (it's the angled ones)
caster - both white spacers infront(deg??)
camber - 1.5deg
toe-out - 0deg
traction compund - paragon(full rear/half front)

I need more turn-in(off power) steering, on power steering is good while i would prefer to lessen it slightly.
So what changes do i need to do to my current setup??

and also where does the Associated center spring fit in the the CRC spring chart from softest to hardest

Associated blue???
silver(kit)
gold(team kit)
red
copper
CRC stiff silver(.50)
CRC super stiff silver(.55)

this is what I have in my notes for center springs

Green
Silver
Gold
Blue
Red
Copper
CRC stiff silver
CRC super stiff silver