The SSG one you saw was probably a Yokomo because I don't think any other companies use that type of graphite. Many people will say different things, I chose the Carpet Knife because of several main reasons, fist being that I was told many times that it was an excelent car and it has also won several big races to prove it self on a track, it uses an O-ring for a battary hold down system so that makes it much easier than tape, I also wanted to have fun when I got this car and I figured that tape might take away from some of the fun ;) , I also like the adjustable servo mounts, some people say that the servo mounts arn't any good and can move around in a hard hit, but I'd rather have my servo move around once or twice than screw up 3 chassis's trying to get the holes properly drilled. Just my .02

Good cars: Corally SP12m, AE 12L3, Trinity Switchblade, CRC Six-Pack, CRC CarpetKnife, SPEEDMERCHANT REV.3. I listed them from worst to best, as I rate them.

I personally don't like T-bar cars because of the T-Bar and the inconvenience of taping in batteries. I prefer the Rev.3 over the CarpetKnife for several reasons, adjustable battery position, slightly longer wheelbase, different rear suspension geometry, and the best personal support from ANY manufacturer.

i dunno but i seem to like the yokomo one the best. then it'll be either the trinity and then associate. is there a site for the SPEEDMERCHANT REV.3? i'll be doing some searching now

thanks for the site. i think i'll be going towards the yokomo...but it all depends on the price, then i'll be leaning towards the something...not really sure yet.

The yokomo was made specifically for Masami to win the Worlds on the South African pavement track. The chassis is a longer wheelbase than most cars out there and has alot of flex to it (both were intenional design characteristics), as cool as the SSG is, it causes a great deal of glitching problems, and its rather expensive to replace (or to even find a replacement, however in your location the situation might be different).

what are the glitching problems?

I remember back in the day when I ran 1/10 pan cars with what they now call the "old skool" front end the steering blocks would wear out fast and create alot of slop in the steering. Are the blocks better nowadays, or is it something that needs to be replaced on a frequent basis???

what would be a car that is not so expensive and good lookin'?

Hmmmmmm, that seems kinda wierd :weird: , cuz on my old style front end on my carpet knife the steering blocks don't even rotate on anything. They are pretty clamped to the hinge pin with the E-clips and than the hinge pin rotates in the suspension arms. I don't see how the steering block would wear out. Mabey they've changed the old style front ends?

Associated 12 question: Historical help needed.:nod:

Here's a question for all you old school guys:

A friend gave me a bag of Associated parts. Most of the stuff is new, some still in the packages. I have nearly a complete car.

I downloaded all the info I could find on the Associated website. The car appears to be a 12L, maybe a 12LW or older. I thought it would be fun to build it up as a retro car.


The chassis is made of graphite and is almost identical in shape to my 12L3's. The material has an old style look to it and though you can see the weave in the fabric, the chassis has a matte-type finish to it.

The significant difference in shape is that it has no horns or spurs for body mounts on the front, like current designs. It is straight across just in front of the front suspension. It also has no holes for the servo horns. Needless to say, it has an old-school front end, with all plastic on the car being white in color.

It appears to pre-date any of the L or LW chassis's in the Associated parts list on the website.


My question is this:
Does anyone know what era. model or vintage this car/chassis could be? ;) Thanks! Any info would be appreciated.

Sounds to me that you have the RC12I which is from 1984. I doubt that you would have the RC12. These were manufactured by Associated back in 1981. But if you have the RC12, you have a collectors item that I would suggest you do not destroy. Could be worth some $$$ to you if you hold on to it. Can you take a pic and post it here? My experience with Associated dates back to the very early 80's...LOL! I probably should not have said that. I'm showing my age. :D

If it's got a T-bar it's a 12L, more than likely an original 12L graphite kit. Should a have a section of wire that stetches from the back of the upper pod plate to a small white plastic tube on top of the damper post. On the wire there should be a spring or a section of fuel tubing. The T-bar should be L shaped. The body posts go on top of the 8/32 screws that mount the front suspension arms.

1/12 paint job
 

Hi,
i've just gotten started in this hobby. I posted a pic elsewhere on this site a few months ago a pic of my 1/12 daewoo matiz. i bought it because i wanted a model of my car. well i like to put some work in my models so i got a bit bored of the hatchback. so here's my new body for that chassis. its from the maker of the same car (academy). only their plastic kits seem to be available in australia. i by mine from NZ. in europe they are available from germany i think. so without further ado here it is!!
by the way, couldnt be bothered getting my airbrush set up. the effect you see on the body is from a $1.50 toothbrush!! the rest is hand-painted in tamiya acrylic. you dont HAVE to spend heaps of money on a nice paint-job;)

where i race, i'm the only one who drives a 1/12. so of course im racing against 1/10 tourers. today i was shunted in the rear (well the car was anyway) and busted the t-bar. i've ordered a fibreglass one to replace it but i wonder if that is enough. i'm going to put a small square of foam (not too big or will look goofy) on the back lower brace to reduce the impact. i'm wondering if anyone else out there is dodging 1/10's and if they have any suggestions on how to survive them? short of not running with them of course...
i also have a couple more pics of my car in the custom paint job section if you're interested...