The new protoform ascari has an open cockpit.

What I would like to see is a move toward Stuff like the Audi R8 and the Panoz, and other LMP 900 type cars for the 1/12, bring back Pro10 and give them the GTP bodies, like the Bentley, the rumored C6R-GTP racer, etc.

If nothing else, use GT-1 or GTS type bodies for the wider pan cars. I know that there arent any on the market, but that doesnt mean that they cant be made

Thanks RCsilly for getting that link for T.M.

NewRacer- what is it about the 19turns that you have tried that you didn't like?

RC Racer- Glad all of us could help, so what are going to get?

TM WHEELS
 

Thanks for the help,RCsilly

:) :) :) :)
Terry.

Hot Bodies has a Toyota GT1 body for the 10th and 12th scale. The bodies look great.:nod:

darnold - I am going to get the Futaba 9602 servo (it should go nice with my 3PK), for ESC I am thinking about the GM ESC-SX9 (has anyone tried one of these yet?), or the Quantum Competition. I am happy with one of my other Quantum ESC's... For motors I am going to give the Axiom #1149 Synergy "S2" Series 19 Turn Spec Motor a try, when they get stock of them.

Thanks again for the help guys, you will be hearing more questions from me once I get my car running ;)

I haven't tried any in 1/12th yet, just TC. We tried them for an expert touring car class at my local track. All of the ones I tried only lasted about 4 runs max before they needed cut and re-brushed. Some as little as one run. They would always run very hot. Might as well run all out mod in my opinion. This year we are going brushless for the expert class.

Typical maintenance on any mod motor is 1-2 runs and then a rebuild with normal size brushes. It can be easy to forget that a 19 turn is truly a mod motor and that the A main in this class at Snowbirds is normally within 1.25 laps of open mod A main were 7-9 turns are normally used.

Since the trade off to get this speed comes from them being geared up it must be remembered that this also puts a lot of strain on the motor thus requiring normal modified maitenance.

Sometimes brush selection can help on this front such as the Trinity 4383EP brush for my Axiom D5/P-94's and I like the Axiom World brushes for the Axiom Carrera based motors. These brushes significantly increase power in their applications while being rather easy on the commutator.

You should try 19t with stand up brushes....the lay down 19t's eat brushes and coms.....thats one thing I dont like about most 19t's on the market now they use lay down brushes.

Hi darnold,

What does your "rebuild" mean? I'm considering running 4 cells mod motor in my rc12l3. I'll running it just for fun and not racing. Do I have to cut its comm every 1-2 run? I think that the lowest turn that I'll run will be 12T or higher.

The way the rules work for spec classes, they ENCOURAGE manufacturers to make motors that are inefficient and require frequent rebuilding.

The limitations are on the number of turns of wire, initial cost, machine wound, etc... with no consideration on longevity or cost over time. Specifying 19T limits power somewhat, but manufacturers have tricks to get more power out of them...holes in the can, laydown brushes, etc... all give better RPM and better power. They also result in REDUCED efficiency and higher maintenance.

It's exactly the same story as with stock motors, old stock motors used standup brushes, cans with no holes, full stack of laminations on armatures, etc... they lasted longer between rebuilds when compared with a newer Monster or P2K2 or MVP or whatever. But they were also be BUTT SLOW compared to newer motors.

People want FAST motors more than they want easy to maintain motors. So manufacturers make fast motors that win races instead of slow low maintenance motors.

Nothing on site(s)
 

I looked for any part listing and found nothing. I was interested in a few parts but the car isn't even listed.

Is there another site?

Thanks

I kinda would like to see stuff like the C5R, the Saleen, the Mosler M900R, the Lister Storm, the Dodge Viper, etc. made for the 1/10 pans and the open cockpit LMP style bodies (much like the Ascari) like the Lucchini, the Audi, the BMW V12, the Panoz, etc for the 1/12. Thoughts?

'

I would rather keep what we have and keep paying 20 bucks (canadian) per body than try to make more and have to pay all the liscening fees.

Its no wonder sedan bodies are up around 35-40, there are so many, and they split the market, so each time you buy, youre paying a larger precentage of the liscence. With 1/12 as it is now, the fee for the P-35 is split between basically everyone who buys a 1/12 body.

Personally, I have no problem with the current bodies, and unless there is a performance increase from a new body, I wouldnt but it. Not that I drive well enough to notice, lol

tifosi- A rebuild simply means that you take the motor apart, spray it out with motor spray, skim the commutator with a comm. lathe and you can reserrate the brushes (two - three times before you need new ones) and put the motor back together. Peak Performance has an excellent article along with Orion (i think) on how to do this.

How often should this be done? I do it every run at a big race, every two runs at a club race, and every 4-6 runs when i'm just practicing. You probably can do every 4-6 runs without a problem which should be a days worth of club racing or practicing.